Rotors and pads for daily driving and light track use?

[NeverSatisfied]

Just to provide an update: I was at 37K miles when I switched to the centric rotors, and I'm now at 56K miles and have had multiple more track/HPDE days. Still using OEM PP Ferodo brake pads. Performance and quality have been fantastic while on track and while on street. Very minimal fade on track and very minimal squeal on street, if at all.

I got 37K miles out of the Factory OEM rotors, curious if I'll get the similar with more track days on the centrics. The centrics are indistinguishable from OEM to me, except for the brown rusty look in the center where an OEM rotor is coated grey.

Track time has a substantial impact

For instance my car is my track car and my daily. I’m somewhere around 8-10 sets of rotors and pads at 30k miles

My rotors are toast with cracks by the time the pads are done

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[Bossdog]

UPDATE: I just ordered OEM front rotors, Centric blank front rotors, OEM front brake pads and 2 bottles of OEM brake fluid from CARID.

I know they have a bad reputation, but I wanted to have these parts installed before my next HPDE on 2/20.

please don’t go to the track with OEM brake fluid. Wet boiling point is 284F. ate type 200 has a 388 wet boiling point for roughly the same price. If it’s fresh (dry boiling point) is 500F vs 536 so your should be fine. As it ages, it becomes suspect under track use.
The reason I bring it up is in 2013 I had a kid crash into my 3 month old Boss302 because he boiled off his brake fluid.
ate Type 200 is cheap and good. Don’t put yourself or others at risk at the track.

Oh, and one more point, trackers, get track insurance, you’re 100% responsible for your car no matter who’s at fault and your regular car insurance won’t pay for damage on the track. I thought it would never happen to me! But it did. Never underestimate others stupidity!

 

[Rodpwnz]

Track time has a substantial impact

For instance my car is my track car and my daily. I’m somewhere around 8-10 sets of rotors and pads at 30k miles

My rotors are toast with cracks by the time the pads are done

Same here with my daily and my track car. I'm a casual on 300TW street tires; pads and rotors look perfect so far after a couple track days during these 20K miles. I don't chase times, I don't push the car or myself to 10/10.

please don’t go to the track with OEM brake fluid. Wet boiling point is 284F. ate type 200 has a 388 wet boiling point for roughly the same price. If it’s fresh (dry boiling point) is 500F vs 536 so your should be fine. As it ages, it becomes suspect under track use.
The reason I bring it up is in 2013 I had a kid crash into my 3 month old Boss302 because he boiled off his brake fluid.
ate Type 200 is cheap and good. Don’t put yourself or others at risk at the track.

Oh, and one more point, trackers, get track insurance, you’re 100% responsible for your car no matter who’s at fault and your regular car insurance won’t pay for damage on the track. I thought it would never happen to me! But it did. Never underestimate others stupidity!

OEM brake fluid for me is Motorcraft PM20 - 338 wet boiling point. I understand and agree with preaching the benefits of higher wet boiling point brake fluid, but this is dependant on driver + track and on a per case basis. I consider myself very conservative on track, and have never experienced any brake fade or brake performance degradation.

That said, although PM20 DOT4 has been plenty fine for me, I'm considering SRF for my next brake fluid change. Sorry to hear about your 302.

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