Rear swaybar setting question

[kz]

Does it help in any ways for daily drive?

No.

Is it going to hurt it somehow ? It removes some compliance out of it so generally not. None of the aftermarket mods really help in any way for daily drive but some change how the car feels and that's enough for most to spend money on it.

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[jayvicious]

No.

Is it going to hurt it somehow ? It removes some compliance out of it so generally not. None of the aftermarket mods really help in any way for daily drive but some change how the car feels and that's enough for most to spend money on it.

I see, i was reading the forum hence that's why i went and ask from opinion from chatgpt.

I've already purchased the steeda stop the hop starter kit.
On top of that , i purchased a Front Strut Bar Ultra and Rear Lower Bar Ultra.. After further thinking im planning to use the steeda and the front, is that fine? i'm using the hpp model with the factory bar. Will those two jeopardize my daily drive?

 

[kz]

What strut bars are you talking about ? Chassis braces mounted undeneath ? Strut bar is generally one in the engine bay that connects both strut towers, it doesn't really do much other than looks good. It will all be fine and won't jeopardize anything, might increase NVH (general automotive term for noise vibrations harshness) but it won't make it bad.

 

[Justgonna send it]

Ok so would a front bar from a 350 be a good upgrade for my setup. Or will i need straight aftermarket

 

[NightmareMoon]

I was asking for an extra opinion since the shop had the Front Strut Bar which i was looking for

So is it a good thing to put, yay or nay? @NightmareMoon

Nay. If you have specific complaints about the rear subframe stability I’d do thr Rear lower control arm and toe bearings instead and I’d do the diff bushing supports so they last a hit longer. I’d leave the subframe bushings alone or throw in the aluminum collars and centering dowels (which you kind of need with the collars but not without them) and call it done.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Ok so would a front bar from a 350 be a good upgrade for my setup. Or will i need straight aftermarket

Well I dont know what your goals are. I like the BMR front bar personally. It fits well and its a good range of setting. The 350 bar wont give you any settings to play with but depending on your intentions it might work for your build.

 

[Justgonna send it]

Well I dont know what your goals are. I like the BMR front bar personally. It fits well and its a good range of setting. The 350 bar wont give you any settings to play with but depending on your intentions it might work for your build.

The main goal is to eliminate some body roll or what i feel to be body roll. I just feel like the rear unwontedly kicks out at times. I’m on bmr springs , steeda dampers , stop the hop kit , bmr vertical links , New cont DWS, 315-35-20.

 

[NightmareMoon]

The main goal is to eliminate some body roll or what i feel to be body roll. I just feel like the rear unwontedly kicks out at times. I’m on bmr springs , steeda dampers , stop the hop kit , bmr vertical links , New cont DWS, 315-35-20.

Which steeda dampers? The rear is gonna kick out with 400+hp, but if you do a stiffer front bar and only a stiffer front bar that will help quite a bit with that. DWS is an all season, so its also not ideal if you're trying to get lots of grip on the rear, but after tires, the front swaybar will be the best possible thing to shift the balance to give you more grip on the back.

You can also look at your alignment. If the rear toe is off, its gonna step out more easily.

 

[Justgonna send it]

Which steeda dampers? The rear is gonna kick out with 400+hp, but if you do a stiffer front bar and only a stiffer front bar that will help quite a bit with that. DWS is an all season, so its also not ideal if you're trying to get lots of grip on the rear, but after tires, the front swaybar will be the best possible thing to shift the balance to give you more grip on the back.

You can also look at your alignment. If the rear toe is off, its gonna step out more easily.

thank you sir i would like to subscribe too your new letter. Cause i have learn a lot in the short conversations

the damper are the non adjustable ones. And the tires were bought before i got my blower (impulse buy) . What tires and front bar do you recommend? Also would it be worth putting the rear bar on and set it on soft setting only after i get my front first.

 

[thompsje]

So your saying unless i do the front bar done worry about doing the rear?

I'd agree with that. Get the matching front bar, set it to medium and the rear to soft. Test from there. Also, IMO, if you don't have a factory front x-brace, you might want to do that too. The bar won't be as effective if the front end isn't stiffened up.

 

[NightmareMoon]

thank you sir i would like to subscribe too your new letter. Cause i have learn a lot in the short conversations

the damper are the non adjustable ones. And the tires were bought before i got my blower (impulse buy) . What tires and front bar do you recommend? Also would it be worth putting the rear bar on and set it on soft setting only after i get my front first.

yeah you should experiment with the rear bar you have, since you've got it. Like I said earlier, its very quick to swap in and out... Just don't throw away your stock rear bar. No harm in trying it, unless you think you can get your money back. You can try it right now and see what we're talking about directly for yourself. You don't need a professional mechanic to try out the rear bar, its trival with hand tools. For the stiffer settings you have to cut a bit of metal off the brake bracket, but try it on soft for yourself.

I like the BMR front bar, and no you don't need to stay with one brand for the front and rear bars, since they're adjustable anyway.

For tires, there's lots of threads, and it depends on if you can get away with a summer tire (i.e. no driving at or below freezing temperatures), and how much you intend to drive in the rain. Summer tires can also be wet weather tires, or they can be focused on maximum dry grip, so it depends a little, but there many threads on those. Currently I'm running the MP4S, the Yok A052 and the Vitour P1, but I may try a Coninental ECS02 next round, we'll see. I like the MP4S (240TW) a lot though, its a fantastic daily driver summer sports car tire. However its not the peak of the dry/warp grip triangle, there are others which sacrifice longevity and grip harder. The A052 (200TW) is probably the best tire for straight line grip I've ever been on, although there are others in the 200TW category which are good too.

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