Random ticking from Throttle body ?? ***UPDATE***

[Buldawg76]

Here is the part number you need to search for FR3Z-9F926-A.

https://parts.levittownfordparts.co...1c3RhbmcmeT0yMDE1JnQ9Z3QmZT01LTBsLXY4LWdhcw==

BD

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[NGOT8R]

If you’re going to replace the TB, you might as well get a ported one. Soler Performance has a sexy looking one with golfball dimples on the blade shaft.

 

[Mustangfreek]

Soler Performance

humm
Made me look
Kinda intriguing, doesn’t say besides 15-20
Do assuming it fits stock intakes?
I F’ing know Nd it’s out of stock anyways..
But I have an extra core tb now..

 

[Mustangfreek]

Here is the part number you need to search for FR3Z-9F926-A.

https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-throttle-body-fr3z9e926a?c=Zz1mdWVsLXN5c3RlbSZzPXRocm90dGxlLWJvZHkmbD0yJm49QXNzZW1ibGllcyBQYWdlJmE9Zm9yZCZvPW11c3RhbmcmeT0yMDE1JnQ9Z3QmZT01LTBsLXY4LWdhcw==

BD

ahh
Why don’t they go buy what’s on the side
As all those have the fr3z number but same number on motor

 

[NGOT8R]

humm
Made me look
Kinda intriguing, doesn’t say besides 15-20
Do assuming it fits stock intakes?
I F’ing know Nd it’s out of stock anyways..
But I have an extra core tb now..

Yes, the fit factory intakes. There are two variations of the Soler TB. 15-17 cars utilize an analog signal and 18+ cars utilize a digital signal. In my case, Soler ported a factory Bullitt TB. AFAIK, Soler offers a completely new TB (no core required) for 15-17 cars.

 

[Buldawg76]

ahh
Why don’t they go buy what’s on the side
As all those have the fr3z number but same number on motor

Generally what is printed on the part is the engineering number not the part number that the parts dept uses hence the "E" instead of the "Z" at the end of the first 4 digits.

I have no clue why Ford does this.

BD

 

[Nardly]

Ok, to update this. I took a chance and ordered 2 of the cleanest looking from the slim pickings on eBay, one with 40k and 13k

Got them both today and was waiting like a kid for my toy to show up, first one from ups shows up. Open it up, instantly notice the plug is in a different spot, it looks bigger, Wtf..

Kicks boxes on the way out of garage and wait for usps to drop other one, well got busy and went out few hours later, box is on the curb and it’s beaten open, like looks like it was F’ing ran over.

now I’m pissed, back to the garage. Put all 3 on the bench, 2 the same, one different. They all rattle, one in broken up box looks
“ok” so decide to try it As it’s identical to mine and off a 16’

Immediately notice with just the key on, pushing the throttle makes a crazy screeching sound besides the blade moving, etc. turn it off, do the throttle down slowly thing couple times and it’s still there, Man wtf.

So, checked the battery, was at 12.7,

decuded to unhook battery cables again and hook up the 2 amp charger/maintainer

fast forward an hour it clicks off charge, run over and push the on button, screeching mofo again..

Bad words, followed by screwdriver flying ;)

decided to unplug that one and lay on top the other TB,

run into car, turn on, silent as can be besides the slight noise of the blade moving.

Again, wtf.

check battery , 12.3

unhook cables and charge again.
few hours later, it clicks off, and check the voltage.

13.4

ok, leave meter on battery for an hour while I screw around

drops to 12.65 ish

so, I can’t explain why the big tb doesn’t make the noise, but check the battery

factory motorcraft with 96 month code from, June of 14’

So maybe the battery is the problem?

Damnit, this has been dumb and still nowhere, but dug into the other TB and looked back on pics from another ad on eBay, the car had what looked like the power pack 2/3 with 350 TB

So ended up with a gt350 TB out of this, mess so far. Which is for sale btw..lol

What should I do, leaning towards getting a battery I guess.

I’m not sure if the battery is the problem but I would replace an 8 year old battery. Longest I have ever gotten was 7 years and it died 50 miles from home. I do know that today’s electronics will act up at low voltage.

 

[Mustangfreek]

I’m not sure if the battery is the problem but I would replace an 8 year old battery. Longest I have ever gotten was 7 years and it died 50 miles from home. I do know that today’s electronics will act up at low voltage.

yep.
battery Is kookoo and not holding a full charge.
Gonna swing by the dealer to grab one this eeek.

 

[BlownGP]

Any update on this?

Co-workers 15 F-150 5.0 having the save clicking noise.

 

[Mustangfreek]

The battery was the culprit. New battery and it went away;)

 

[BlownGP]

The battery was the culprit. New battery and it went away;)

Ok, thanks

His battery is only like 6 months old.. ummm

 

[Leigh_bullitt]

I’ve got this too on my 2020 Bullitt.
When revving at idle sounds like a rapid relay clicking type of sound. It’s intermittent too not all the time.
When in idle and revving to 2000rpm it starts this strange loud rapid clicking noise.
Also accelerating away slowly it does it too. Almost like a loud relay noise.

purge valve clicking is normal means it’s working but this noise is similar but louder.

car runs intermittent rough then butter smooth between start ups and feels like it has more pull and then less other times.

I’ve checked absolutely everything but I’m now seriously leaning to thinking it may be the throttle body clicking rapidly?.

it doesn’t do with the engine off only when running.

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