Quick Manual shifting advise!

[kluke15]

still had issues with jerky/not smooth clutch engagement even after steeda spring, mgw and tranny fluid. just swapped to a SS braided clutch line and loving life again. clutch is consistent and much smoother and clutch pedal seems to be a tad lighter. would highly recommend except for the pain in the ass install.

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[GreenS550]

2019 Mustang GT Manual

Guys I need some advise and guidance on how to shift quick from first to second and possible third without causing jerky shifts and also not causing any cluth damage.

I can shift smooth but I feel like when I do smooth shifting the car is so slow and people who have a corolla can just take off when stopped at a red light and I can catch up to the speeds eventually.

I want to know how you all shift gears and at what rpms and how do you release clutch properly to shift quick but without any jerky moves.

Thanks!!!

Omar, The '18 and up Mustang GTs have very long gearing and with the lower torque at lower RPMs of the Coyote and the very quick clutch engagement a smooth, quick and quick accelerating launch on the street is very difficult.

Some tips. Repeatedly, and I mean repeatedly practice your dead stop to 30 mph takeoff. The clutch assist spring gives very little "feel" and as some have done, including myself, the Steeda spring for $20 really helps get the feel.

Once you have the street quick acceleration launch down, you will be surprised how quick you can get the car going. This is not the same as a full throttle type of launch at the drag strip. Still, once you get it, and we're talking a very small fraction of an inch from no to full clutch engagement you will be be fired up!

This is very similar to firing a semiautomatic handgun. To be quickly accurate you need to fire a LOT of rounds through that gun. Talking many thousands of rounds. Then you have to keep practicing, practicing. Yes, you can quickly pull the gun out and put a round through a guys eyesocket, but it takes a lot of practice.

Your clutch is the same type of thing.

 

[ctandc72]

It's all about technique and the timing of the clutch / shift etc. Find a video of Ronnie Sox or Bill "Grumpy" Jenkins from the 60's. These guys shifts crappy old 4 speeds so fast, you'd hardly think they shifted.



That's a quick one I could find. It's different for everyone. You have to find the best way for YOU and YOUR car. Different transmissions acts differently. People complaining about the MT82 crack me up. My first car was a '67 Chevelle with several different 4 speeds (Saginaw, several different versions of the Muncie). Put it this way - I could have dropped that transmission blind folded I did it so many times.

My daily driver for the past 30 years has been a manual transmission, including trucks, cars, Jeep etc. I can tell you that if you find out how your particular trans / car works - you can pretty easily drive it home even after a clutch failing. Only fun part is stopping and then starting in gear - not sure how the modern safety controls in a Mustang would handle that.

Rev matching is simply less wear on a transmission. From a non racer standpoint, it lessens the driveline shock when downshifting - getting the synchros to unload and allow easier gear changes with less mechanical wear. From a racer's standpoint - rev matching is all about lessening driveline shock so the suspension of the car is not being upset by the gear change for handling purposes.....

Practice. The key to smooth engagement / disengagement (clutch) is being quick to the release point and then smooth at that split second. I will say that modern clutch setups have made it sometimes harder to get a handle on a 'repeatable' release point in order to make the car easier to drive for those who don't have a lot of shifting experience - all in an effort to reduce driveline shock, which is really an effort to reduce breakage and warranty work.

 

[w3rkn]

The best way to learn a car's clutch is to practice from a standstill, and get the car moving without using any throttle. It will teach your foot where the engage and bite points are...

 

[BHRS]

I had a difficult time getting used to clutch, EFI, rev hang, etc. I added a Steeda shifter bracket and trans mount plus BG fluid to reduce the sloppy shifter and less than smooth shifting. All helped to tighten the shifter and make the shift smoother. To help the take off I raised the idle to 725 as in traffic it's just easier to engage the clutch without touching the throttle if possible. As the clutch engages then ease the throttle for a smooth take off. I hold the shifter with light pressure, as I press clutch I pull shifter into neutral for 1/2 second then shift into second gear. I've found that slight hesitation helps it go into gear easier with less notchy feeling. Do not jerk the shifter and do not limp wrist it - smooth and steady works best. During my shifts I've found leaving my foot off the gas helps the jerky feeling. Once it's in gear, let out clutch and press the go pedal. Repeat going one gear at a time. I do not skip gears. In traffic I try and shift between 2500-3250. As others have said - practice and be consistent. It's about muscle memory and after a while you don't even think about it - you just shift and go. Good Luck!

 

[GreenS550]

The best way to learn a car's clutch is to practice from a standstill, and get the car moving without using any throttle. It will teach your foot where the engage and bite points are...

Yes. Excellent!

 

[ctandc72]

The best way to learn a car's clutch is to practice from a standstill, and get the car moving without using any throttle. It will teach your foot where the engage and bite points are...

In the past before modern EFI and engine controls I would have agreed with you. While I still agree it's great practice for someone getting used to driving a stick - or even getting used to the characteristics of a new vehicle - it's REALLY hard to stall out a modern car with a stick shift. Seriously. The ECU will bump the idle and do just about everything it can NO To stall the car. Not like the old days with a carburetor and / or a gas pedal connected MECHANICALLY to a carb or throttle body.

Not to mention that most modern OEM transmissions with hydraulic clutch setups don't have a "set" bite point on the clutch. It can actually change based on RPM, speed etc.

I will say this - my '17 Mustang MT82 from the moment it was new was a bit notchy, especially when cold. Replacing factory fluid, shifter bushing, transmission bushing insert and short shifter greatly improved the entire shifting experience.

My '19 GT - which I just picked up last weekend - I'm kind of shocked how easy this thing shifts and how the new twin disc clutch seems to behave under low / mid and high RPM shifts.

 

[w3rkn]

Trying not to stall isn't the "practice" we are discussing. It is the engage & bite points of YOUR clutch and learning where those are...!

 

[GreenS550]

I've had several muscle cars with manual, linkage, fork clutches. I found them easier to engage than my Bullitt. Get the Steeda spring even though it does add more resistance. You can feel the engagement better.

Also, since I put the Whipple on, the torque off idle makes normal driving easier.

 

[Genxer]

I have a shifter bracket on mine and the Steeda spring which helps but had to learn what this car likes. To me it is a lot of feel. You can tell about how fast the synchros want to engage. I usually shift slow because I'm not racing people and don't want to repair a transmission. I don't hamfist it and try to force anything. I feel it meshing then quickly flick it in gear.

 

[Sivi70980]

I have a shifter bracket on mine and the Steeda spring which helps but had to learn what this car likes. To me it is a lot of feel. You can tell about how fast the synchros want to engage. I usually shift slow because I'm not racing people and don't want to repair a transmission. I don't hamfist it and try to force anything. I feel it meshing then quickly flick it in gear.

100% agree! Although a little hamfisting never hurt anyone....

 

[Blue Moon]

What are everyone's thoughts on double-clutching? Waste of time? Wear out the throw-out bearing? Make the synchromesh last forever?

 

[khalismatic]

I don't know if this has already been mentioned but, you need to learn how to prime your gearbox for the upshift you intend to make. I've found if you "load" the synchros up before the full upshift, you get a smooth and quick gear change if coupled with quick footwork. Also, I have an MGW, and the sturdy, bolt-riffle action like precision makes a huge difference.

 

[3star2nr]

It's all about technique and the timing of the clutch / shift etc. Find a video of Ronnie Sox or Bill "Grumpy" Jenkins from the 60's. These guys shifts crappy old 4 speeds so fast, you'd hardly think they shifted.



That's a quick one I could find. It's different for everyone. You have to find the best way for YOU and YOUR car. Different transmissions acts differently. People complaining about the MT82 crack me up. My first car was a '67 Chevelle with several different 4 speeds (Saginaw, several different versions of the Muncie). Put it this way - I could have dropped that transmission blind folded I did it so many times.

My daily driver for the past 30 years has been a manual transmission, including trucks, cars, Jeep etc. I can tell you that if you find out how your particular trans / car works - you can pretty easily drive it home even after a clutch failing. Only fun part is stopping and then starting in gear - not sure how the modern safety controls in a Mustang would handle that.

Rev matching is simply less wear on a transmission. From a non racer standpoint, it lessens the driveline shock when downshifting - getting the synchros to unload and allow easier gear changes with less mechanical wear. From a racer's standpoint - rev matching is all about lessening driveline shock so the suspension of the car is not being upset by the gear change for handling purposes.....

Practice. The key to smooth engagement / disengagement (clutch) is being quick to the release point and then smooth at that split second. I will say that modern clutch setups have made it sometimes harder to get a handle on a 'repeatable' release point in order to make the car easier to drive for those who don't have a lot of shifting experience - all in an effort to reduce driveline shock, which is really an effort to reduce breakage and warranty work.

Dude smoking the cigar was a badass

 

[3star2nr]

What are everyone's thoughts on double-clutching? Waste of time? Wear out the throw-out bearing? Make the synchromesh last forever?

Its easier to just blip the throttle while u have the clutch fully in, I.e. rev match...

It does basically the same thing and is more practical. I only use double clutching on cars with bad trannies with old synchros. Or if there is a hydraulics issue

Rev matching reduces wear and tear on the clutch and driveline when done correctly.

It also makes the car ride smoother for passengers.

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