Question for guys who actually have the the Roush Kit

Toydoctor

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anyone dropping ice into the intercooler tank to cool down?

You have to install an aftermarket one. I built this one to replace the original from roush. The “degas” container does not flow enough water nor could you get enough ice in it to make any difference. This is my setup along with a chiller.
FD2E0256-2AC4-45AE-8EE9-686A0C0F72BE.jpeg
8E978B64-4FEC-411B-B9A5-E195F2463C21.jpeg
 

cib24

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Seriously guys, just buy the AEM kit for $400 or whatever it costs and inject water post MAF and pre-throttle body. It will keep the supercharger from heatsoaking, reduce air temps and reduce EGTs, keeping the car in the optimal part of the tune. You probably only need to run a 500cc/min jet which won't require any tuning adjustment to cater for that amount of water. I have been doing this for 4 years with my Mazda RX-7 and its maxed out twin turbo setup making 400hp (up from 280hp factory). It keeps the temps in check whether you are on the street or on the track and you will see the air temps drop instantly when you floor it and the water kicks in.
 

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You have to install an aftermarket one. I built this one to replace the original from roush. The “degas” container does not flow enough water nor could you get enough ice in it to make any difference. This is my setup along with a chiller.
FD2E0256-2AC4-45AE-8EE9-686A0C0F72BE.jpeg
8E978B64-4FEC-411B-B9A5-E195F2463C21.jpeg
There isn't a tank that would fit in the same spot as the Roush that's big enough?
 

Toydoctor

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Seriously guys, just buy the AEM kit for $400 or whatever it costs and inject water post MAF and pre-throttle body. It will keep the supercharger from heatsoaking, reduce air temps and reduce EGTs, keeping the car in the optimal part of the tune. You probably only need to run a 500cc/min jet which won't require any tuning adjustment to cater for that amount of water. I have been doing this for 4 years with my Mazda RX-7 and its maxed out twin turbo setup making 400hp (up from 280hp factory). It keeps the temps in check whether you are on the street or on the track and you will see the air temps drop instantly when you floor it and the water kicks in.
I’m running this exact setup with my car. So far not much change in a IAT2 temps possibly about 5 degrees less. I’m injecting just before the throttle body. I started with a 50/50 mixture and now I’m at 100% methanol. Of course I have no way of tuning. On a dynojet with it’s A/F sensor in the tail pipe I still wasn’t running richer than 11.5.

The most noticeable difference is less detonation and consistent timing of about 17 to 18 degrees. I wanted to provide more information with data to back it up, but I haven’t been able to go to the track. I’ll try for this Friday at Bradenton.

The ultimate goal is to eliminate the need for boostane with the use of water injection. I’m not quite there yet.
 

cib24

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I’m running this exact setup with my car. So far not much change in a IAT2 temps possibly about 5 degrees less. I’m injecting just before the throttle body. I started with a 50/50 mixture and now I’m at 100% methanol. Of course I have no way of tuning. On a dynojet with it’s A/F sensor in the tail pipe I still wasn’t running richer than 11.5.

The most noticeable difference is less detonation and consistent timing of about 17 to 18 degrees. I wanted to provide more information with data to back it up, but I haven’t been able to go to the track. I’ll try for this Friday at Bradenton.

The ultimate goal is to eliminate the need for boostane with the use of water injection. I’m not quite there yet.
How much water or meth are you injecting? cc/min
 

Toydoctor

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How much water or meth are you injecting? cc/min
The kit supplied 500cc nozzle. For the power I’m making, this may not be enough. AEM has there own chart and I’ve seen others. I’m still working within the roush factory calibration. I wasn’t looking to gain power from the W/I. I was hoping for a bit more stable power production.
 

cib24

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The kit supplied 500cc nozzle. For the power I’m making, this may not be enough. AEM has there own chart and I’ve seen others. I’m still working within the roush factory calibration. I wasn’t looking to gain power from the W/I. I was hoping for a bit more stable power production.
Fair enough. I run the same 500cc/min with my 400hp RX-7, granted the rotary ignition and fueling pulses are twice as demanding as a piston motor so heat is much higher in general compared to a piston motor making the same power. It

Anyway, in my view you are using water for the right reasons.

How is your AEM controller set up? At what PSI does the water turn on, and at what PSI does the water max out the jet at 100% flow?
 

hlfbkd420

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Just an update :) Got my car back from the dealer. They tested the pump and fans and found they were working properly. They also bled the system to make sure there was no air in the lines. Next they did some logging and apparently Roush sent them a new calibration for my car. Keep in mind, I already had the latest tune so I am not sure what they changed. I am working on finding that out.

Funny thing, they mentioned my OBD logging device may not be too "accurate" when it comes to IAT2 temps which I was aware of because I believe it's an inferred number. Nonetheless, it showed the data I needed, IE, boost loss and TB closing. I think they were more concerned that it may be used for tuning.

The weather has cooled off a bit and boy howdy did she shit'n'git when I got on the freeway last night. I will have her to the strip in the coming weeks to see what she does. Going to switch to my stock rims and tires for a dyno session soon as well.
 

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Funny thing, they mentioned my OBD logging device may not be too "accurate" when it comes to IAT2 temps which I was aware of because I believe it's an inferred number. Nonetheless, it showed the data I needed, IE, boost loss and TB closing. I think they were more concerned that it may be used for tuning.
.
What did they say about the boost loss and TB closing?
 

brucelinc

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420, the fact that they sent a new calibration shows that they realize something was not right. It is possible that there was something corrupt in your last cal file.

It was only 75 degrees the last time you ran and you even let the car cool. Closing the throttle and killing boost to only run 113 mph in those conditions is not even logical.

Thanks for keeping us updated!
 

hlfbkd420

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What did they say about the boost loss and TB closing?
High IAT2's are what they were blaming it on.

420, the fact that they sent a new calibration shows that they realize something was not right. It is possible that there was something corrupt in your last cal file.

It was only 75 degrees the last time you ran and you even let the car cool. Closing the throttle and killing boost to only run 113 mph in those conditions is not even logical.

Thanks for keeping us updated!
Yup :) Hopefully it helps. Dragstrip and dyno numbers incoming over the next few weeks.
 
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High IAT2's are what they were blaming it on.



Yup :) Hopefully it helps. Dragstrip and dyno numbers incoming over the next few weeks.
That’s exactly what Lund sez, that the Roush tune closes TB when the IAT’s start to creep
 

brucelinc

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That’s exactly what Lund sez, that the Roush tune closes TB when the IAT’s start to creep
Based on the relatively cool conditions that 420 ran in and how he let the car cool prior to running, it would seem that the Roush cal would rarely produce anything close to it's advertised power.
 
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Stymee

Stymee

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Based on the relatively cool conditions that 420 ran in and how he let the car cool prior to running, it would seem that the Roush cal would rarely produce anything close to it's advertised power.
Unless his cal was corrupt, I wanna say it was and he will run better in the coming weeks, they also burped his HE and Rad too, he may have had an air pocket causing higher temps


I’m believing he will run better now
 
 
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