Question for guys who actually have the the Roush Kit

seely

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Oh.. the PCM flash is failing before the EOL process??

Should look like this when the flash completes then move on to EOL.
1671774170684.jpeg
The thing that weirded me out was the progress bar. Look at your pic, it's not complete. Not sure if that really matters...but i got the same "completed" message as you.

I think the sketchy chinese passthru device with my shitty windows VM just makes me nervous that something went wrong. Running the RDT software took me like 30 min since the computer was so slow.
 

BrentnNC

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I went to the track the other week for the first time with my 2020 Mustang. I got a low fuel pressure light. My question is im still on the roush phase 1 calibration can i run a bap? The car runs well the only other modification is kooks headers and of course a tire. Here are two of my slips. I was so close to 10's but with a tune after the first of the year I think it will be well in the 10's.
surgrey3-9(2).jpg
 

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The thing that weirded me out was the progress bar. Look at your pic, it's not complete. Not sure if that really matters...but i got the same "completed" message as you.

I think the sketchy chinese passthru device with my shitty windows VM just makes me nervous that something went wrong. Running the RDT software took me like 30 min since the computer was so slow.
I remember reading that there are VCM II Diagnostic Tool knockoffs to avoid. I've had good luck with the VXDIAG VCX Nano Diagnostic and Programming Tool. It's a little slow as well.
 

seely

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I have a JMS Fuel Pump Voltage Booster installed while on the Roush p2 cal.

My dip switch settings:
1671810639970.png
After you install it do you need to do any recallibration? I'm considering running E85 with my Roush now it was recommended by multiple people on the forum + Shaun from AEDHP over pump gas.

I'm thinking about swapping the injectors and putting on a BAP. Then driving with the Roush cal to get it tuned. I think that should be fine right? Tbh tunning is something i'm very new to.

considering either the LP52s or ID1050 (but might be overkill)
 

SH!FT

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Since you've said that the car isn't running right currently.. I'd highly recommend having Roush/Ford help you iron out the remaining gremlins before making any modifications. These kits are well engineered and supported. It's probably nothing major but.. may take time, persistence, and $$$ to get the solution. This is the risk we run with a DIY install.


Tune not necessary for the BAP. The BAP is just insuring that the fuel pump meets the parameters defined by the tune. Tune for injectors 100% necessary. Car might not even start without it.

A good tuner will be able to recommend injectors (based on your goals), and might be able to send you a safe tune file so you can get to the shop. You'll likely need a new way to upload that file to the car. I'd be shocked if RDT would flash an aftermarket file.
 
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Stymee

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Have any of u guys tested the better brick yet? I know its been out but haven't seen any real testing?

Itā€™ss not cheap, Jokerz makes it
 

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Stymee

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Wait a minute... is the OG @Stymee going to Roushcharge the new ride?????
Actually I was just interested in what people have seen, I know the website said 10 degreeā€™s but again Iā€™d love to hear if someone ACTUALLY TESTED one

Nope, no blower on my Convertible, again more curious to see results?

For sure we know the Australian Chiller works well.

I will say itā€¦.

Right now if youā€™re going warranty, A ROUSH P2 is the only kit to buy. Every other kit is slop vs a Roush if u wanna keep a warrantyšŸ˜Ž

Still curious to see what the Ford Perf Whipple offers which should be coming soon (GT) not to mention a possibility of revised Roush kit for the 24?

Could u imagine if they do a top mount intercooler brick kit that will not only fit the 24 but 18-23?
 
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SH!FT

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I'd like to see the fuel delivery rev'd as well.

Only issue I have with my P2 kit is 93 oct boils in the rails when it sits after driving on a hot day. Trouble is brewing if IAT2s are above 140F before I push to start.

Thanks for letting us crash your thread.
 
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Stymee

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I'd like to see the fuel delivery rev'd as well.

Only issue I have with my P2 kit is 93 oct boils in the rails when it sits after driving on a hot day. Trouble is brewing if IAT2s are above 130F before I push to start.

Thanks for letting us crash your thread.
In my wildest dreams I never thought the thread would go this long but Roush really does build an excellent kit.

Sure it has some flaws but over all itā€™s a great kit for a guy who wants a warranty. I never had fuel boiling in the rails but I did need to add a BAP to correct the known low psi pressure codes
 
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hlfbkd420

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if I look at my car in the summer she heatsoaks herself. Only had the low fuel pressure on phase 1. Once. Phase 2, tuned? Flawless. Not many cars can hang. Summer or not. Even before being tuned.
 

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I added my SC to my extended warranty when I had the kit put on. 125K 60 mths.
I am planning on adding a Roush SC and if I can extend the warranty past the 36K that would be great! Is your extended warranty through Ford? or a 3rd party? are there are limitations from the standard 36K warranty?
 
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Stymee

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if I look at my car in the summer she heatsoaks herself. Only had the low fuel pressure on phase 1. Once. Phase 2, tuned? Flawless. Not many cars can hang. Summer or not. Even before being tuned.
I am planning on adding a Roush SC and if I can extend the warranty past the 36K that would be great! Is your extended warranty through Ford? or a 3rd party? are there are limitations from the standard 36K warranty?
Roush 36k warranty takes over your 3/36
U cant get more powertrain warranty once adding a Roush kit so if u have long warranty its only gonna cover electronics and such, not the drivetrain

Be careful, if u cant afford for a mishap dont supercharge the car, sometimes bad things happen

However in the 36k part of the warranty Roush would fix the car, up to a certain $$ value (6000-8000 I think)
 
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