Thanks - I’ll likely eventually go to E85 when I can afford it but in the meantime I was looking to improve my drivability. I know E85 lowers IATs but have assumed that combining E85 with a KC would further reduce IATs so my investment in the KC wouldn’t be wasted when I upgrade to E85. Is that a bad assumption?
I am experiencing hesitation and lack of acceleration when ambient temps are over 85 while in day to day traffic. Experiencing the same on the highway when ambient temps are above 90 especially if I hit it hard more than once with even 5 minutes between hits. I’m also experiencing hard hot starts frequently and even on occasion cold starts though rarely. My assumption is that the engine is getting heat soaked - hence the KC install. Summer heat here in Florida is almost always over 90 so I’m frustrated that I’m experiencing hesitation most of the time. Cooler weather drivability is flawless with the exception of occasional cold start idle hunting that can occur at any temperature.
Lowering IAT with a PD blower has one sole purpose, which is to move you away from knock. E85 pretty much almost never knocks so it doesn’t need the reduced IAT to avoid knock altogether.
That almost sounds like a fuel issue. Without knowing your iat2, it is impossible to know if that is the issue. There have been cases of bad pump relays that cause crazy high iat2s. That could also be the issue. I have drag raced in 85 degree weather. My car NEVER experiences any of the behavior you mention. Neither should yours. Here is our weather:
No tuner I am aware will do a flex tune on fi for later gen Mustangs, na sure but not boosted. If there were literal sensors to accurately detect e % maybe. Just too much to go wrong under boost with too much timing added due to inferred e levels that may not be accurate etc.
This is Phase 1 or 2? If it's 2, something looks wrong. Unless it was severely heatsoaked.Here the results
3 runs total first run didnt graph
Runs had a min cool down
I know you say you have never experienced high IAT2's but the next time you have a 99 degree day, park your car outside in the sun from 7am until 4pm and then drive it 5 miles or so and park it.. Give it 20 minutes, start it up and drive it home. Tell me what your IAT2's are. If I do the above on a 100 degree day (I don't have a garage, my car is outside in the sun), my iat2's are in the 135 to 140 area when I cruise home... After a WOT pull they go way above that.That almost sounds like a fuel issue. Without knowing your iat2, it is impossible to know if that is the issue. There have been cases of bad pump relays that cause crazy high iat2s. That could also be the issue. I have drag raced in 85 degree weather. My car NEVER experiences any of the behavior you mention. Neither should yours. Here is our weather:
I do have a carbon drive shaft, perf half shafts, and billet OPG so warranty is not a factor. That being said, will certainly address drivability with ROUSH.
If it is a fuel issue wouldn’t I also have drivability issues in cooler weather?That almost sounds like a fuel issue. Without knowing your iat2, it is impossible to know if that is the issue. There have been cases of bad pump relays that cause crazy high iat2s. That could also be the issue. I have drag raced in 85 degree weather. My car NEVER experiences any of the behavior you mention. Neither should yours. Here is our weather:
I also asked them the same question and they said they would use inferred e values but I’m not sure how they were calculating the inferred values. I’ll be taking everyone’s advice and pass on the custom tune and save up for a PBD E85 tune downstream. In meantime will have the KC installed and check to see if I’m running the latest ROUSH tune. Hopefully ROUSH will update my tune if I’m not running the most current tune but if not, I’ll likely get PBD to do a 93 tune that takes advantage of the cooler IATs that I should get from the KC and later pay them to tune for E85 when I’m ready. What do y’all think of this approach?
This is a phase 2 kit and you are correct on power. This is why the dyno was done I’m in talks with the dealer and Roush to try and figure what’s going on with the 2021 kits and the reported low horsepower. I personally know of 4 kits that have pull lowered than expected hp. While talking with Gavin was told 620-640 is what this kit should put down. I know my ended around 6k rpm but looking at the plot a 66-6800 pull would net around 25-30 more hp. The rating mentioned from Roush was on 91 octane to. My installing dealer has a date set up the last week of June to get their car in the dyno and log for Roush to see if and when a fix will be out.This is Phase 1 or 2? If it's 2, something looks wrong. Unless it was severely heatsoaked.
Here is Phase 1 on my 2018 300A.
Here is Phase 2 on my 2018 300A with a Borla Type S exhaust.
Here is Phase 2 on my 2019 401A.
All of my runs were in fairly cool temps of 70 degrees or 80 degrees. The 2018 had a tune from over a year ago.
Best 1/4 in the 300A was 11.3 @ 127ish
Best 1/4 in the 401A is 10.9 @ 129ish
I didn't say that I hadn't experienced high IAT2 readings. I said I had never experienced drivability issues because of them. Of course if you park the car after driving it, the iat2 rises. I have seen 170 degrees on initial start-up. It sure as hell drops like a rock once the engine and pump start running, though, and the car runs fine.