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Procharger Stage 2 Installed, Tuning Questions

ramairgt1

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I couldn't hear anything. I have Helical also, and it sounds like that (i only have about 75 miles on it). I was a little nervous about the metal sound at first, but starting to feel that its normal.

You faked me out with the blue NY in your signature. I thought maybe you were close to me in NJ to compare lol
Mine has about 300 miles on it and the sound is recent. To me the sound is comparable to an alternator going bad. I've never heard this sound on any PC car I've owned before as this is my 3rd one.
I will compare it to 2 others today when the car is checked out.

I spent 32 years of my life in upstate NY :D
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ramairgt1

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I am currently being tuned by PBD and I have a similar start issue to what your expirencing. The car turns on fine when cold but once it has been sitting warm it has a hard time turning on on the first push of the button. The second push fires the car right up. Not sure how to log this since the car needs to be on for the datalog to start.

Odd.
Mine hasnt completely stalled out on any warm start attempt but still chokes itself on each warm start up no matter how far apart the starts are.
 

ProChargerTECH

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Here is a video of the head unit noise. My car goes in today to get checked out. My installer told me the other 2 PC tuned cars have the same high cylinder head temps but 2 other non PC tuned cars are not having this issue.

Sounds normal to me.

As far as heat goes.... well, HP = Heat.
The more HP you make, the more heat you will make.
They go hand in hand.

But again, two things.
1) The dash doesn't seem to display it correctly always.
2) All seem within range when logged.

I drive them daily, and never had a worry about it.
Personally it seems they have put to many gauges on these cars that don't really need to be on them, cause all it does is confuse people.

1) The wide band is two slow to really care about.
2) The "boost" gauge is just an estimate (and doesn't work well after tuned)
3) The head temps don't actually match the data on the OBD2 stream

So in reality, pretty neat "gizmo" but not something to rely on.
 

smokinzx14r

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Sound good to me ... I wish mine was that quiet.. My head temps stay under 200 even in FL ..But I do have a 170 stat ..
 

Sal GT

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I'll be honest I can't hear anything out of the ordinary, sounds like mine. Maybe you can't capture the sound in video.
Agreed, mine sounds the same...
 

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Sal GT

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As far as your problem, are you on the Procharger tune? is your tune for the correct injectors? if yes to both questions, then it really sounds like lose intake and/or vacuum hose(s). All the clamps have to be double checked and tightened, one of my cold side hoses was loose after i installed mine.

I didn't read all pages of this thread so excuse me if this has been mentioned or done already. I know how frustrating it can be when something isnt working properly and i am just trying to help.

Good Luck!
 

ramairgt1

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As far as your problem, are you on the Procharger tune? is your tune for the correct injectors? if yes to both questions, then it really sounds like lose intake and/or vacuum hose(s). All the clamps have to be double checked and tightened, one of my cold side hoses was loose after i installed mine.

I didn't read all pages of this thread so excuse me if this has been mentioned or done already. I know how frustrating it can be when something isnt working properly and i am just trying to help.

Good Luck!
I'm leaving in 5 min to have the connections checked and compare the sound to other PC cars.
I do have the PC tune, the sound isnt a huge issue, its the stalling thats concerning.
 

ramairgt1

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That latest update seems to have solved the rpm issue on warm start up. I'll have to drive it more to make sure its totally fixed.


All of the connections are fine and they did a compression test on the cooling system which was also fine.


I compared the head unit to another mustang and it made a similar noise, although not as pronounced as mine. I will change the oil this weekend to see if that helps. Again the sound is no biggie, just wanted to make sure it wasnt an issue.


I did a datalog of the car and its showing cyl head temps at 207-208 @ 20mph speed in 50 degree weather. Gauge was reading the same. I sent this file to the tuner.



I am going to try to log at a higher cyl head temp reading on my way home tonight to see if the gauge and log readings are the same.



I also found an old log I sent to the tuner and it was reading 210 at 0mph and 35 deg ambient temp (according to weather.com)


I'm on the fence regarding the cyl head temps since some people are getting much lower and some are getting the same.
 

cyandhappiness

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I was stuck on the highway just a moment ago and the dash head temp reach 230...
It starts to go back down and stay at 217 once the traffic is back to normal. Maybe I should've gone to a lower thermal stat. Did prochargertech say this is normal/within range?

Also while we have all the experts up in this thread, is it normal for the car's KNOCKR goes into 2-4 in partial throttle during regular driving? I notice it always does that when I go first/second gear 50% throttle starting around 2400rpm.
 

15dib

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I was stuck on the highway just a moment ago and the dash head temp reach 230...
It starts to go back down and stay at 217 once the traffic is back to normal. Maybe I should've gone to a lower thermal stat. Did prochargertech say this is normal/within range?

Also while we have all the experts up in this thread, is it normal for the car's KNOCKR goes into 2-4 in partial throttle during regular driving? I notice it always does that when I go first/second gear 50% throttle starting around 2400rpm.
Mine does that and I started to get worried but they said it was bad gas, and that it's normal to pull timing and you should worry when it never pulls timing.
 

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Tommy V

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Its normal to get knock inbetween shifts,are u saying u are at 50%throttle inbetween shifts or 50% right after shift?.Anyway if its right after the shift i would not worry about it,if it carries on a little after the shift then u might want to get it looked at.U have to remember when your looking at this data what u are seeing is in milliseconds.
 

cyandhappiness

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It is as the rpm building up, as soon as i press the clutch or shift it's back to zero. I read more about it on other car forums, it seems like the car is using the KR to maximize fuel efficiency while not in WOT.
 
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oesman

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I believe 230 is within range. I see temps of 195-235 depending on how im driving. Granted its not summer yet. Hottest I've had her out was in low 80s.

Tip in knock seems like what ur describing and i see it in factory logs too. If you add a little more gas does it go away? I mostly see it under very light throttle.
 

Roh92cp

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Sounds normal to me.

As far as heat goes.... well, HP = Heat.
The more HP you make, the more heat you will make.
They go hand in hand.

But again, two things.
1) The dash doesn't seem to display it correctly always.
2) All seem within range when logged.

I drive them daily, and never had a worry about it.
Personally it seems they have put to many gauges on these cars that don't really need to be on them, cause all it does is confuse people.

1) The wide band is two slow to really care about.
2) The "boost" gauge is just an estimate (and doesn't work well after tuned)
3) The head temps don't actually match the data on the OBD2 stream

So in reality, pretty neat "gizmo" but not something to rely on.
You mention inaccurate or lagging data form the dash gauges, but what about OBD scanners or SCT and Ngauge displayed information. Would those sources be accurate and fast in your experience.
 

cyandhappiness

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I believe 230 is within range. I see temps of 195-235 depending on how im driving. Granted its not summer yet. Hottest I've had her out was in low 80s.

Tip in knock seems like what ur describing and i see it in factory logs too. If you add a little more gas does it go away? I mostly see it under very light throttle.
Are you worry about the 100 degree days in Texas with our temperature readings?
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