Procharger P1SC-1 Stage 2 Installed on S550 Last Week

[SolarFlare]

This is what was used:

http://www.hyperlube.com/c3/max-octane-c11.html

In order to validate if it's fuel related you need octanium or Torco. That's it.

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[Scott Wilson]

change your plugs again. My buddy had the same issue on his even though the plugs looked good. We swapped the plugs and gapped them to .028 and it pulled like a crazy sum bitch

 

[Cobo_pro]

Speak with [MENTION=10868]AdrianMAK[/MENTION] Of Mak performance. This gentleman was the guinea pig for the PC since they first came out for the s550 (he has gt #26). He has dialed in the PC tune on various set-up successfully, and deals with people out of the US as well.
On another note, may be a bit old school mentality, but I'm a proponent of the school of thought that boosters foul out plugs and mess with your injectors...IMO
GOOD LUCK EH :lol:

 

[Mustang_Lou]

There's a colored clip (pink I think) at the bottom of the maf sensor plug that you need to push in to lock the sensor in place.

Also, did you by chance use an oiled K&N type filter before? If so, can't hurt to buy a can of maf sensor cleaner spray at the local Cdn Tire.

 

[Davepurp]

The log pressure compared to boost readings seem comparable to my stage 2 kit 72 lb/min to about 8-9 psi but even as mentioned they do fluctuate up and down on WOT

I would regap the plugs and see what happens. Pro charger recommends .28-.32 your .25 seems a bit tight.

 

[brettzo007]

could be belt slip causing the flow problem.

MAF sensors dont always throw codes right away. They have a wide range and the ECU has to see that its way off to throw a code.

Double checked the belt last night - seems to be good. Holding boost quite well.

 

[brettzo007]

The log pressure compared to boost readings seem comparable to my stage 2 kit 72 lb/min to about 8-9 psi but even as mentioned they do fluctuate up and down on WOT

I would regap the plugs and see what happens. Pro charger recommends .28-.32 your .25 seems a bit tight.

I will give that a try for sure, thanks. Anyone know if my spark looks ok in the logs I posted? What gap do you run?

I had someone install the kit, but in checking the manual it is actually showing .035. I'm wondering if .025 vs. .035 would be significant enough to be causing the issues.

"Tech Tip: Installing spark plugs that
are one heat ranger colder than stock
and gapping your plugs to .035” is
recommended."

 

[brettzo007]

There's a colored clip (pink I think) at the bottom of the maf sensor plug that you need to push in to lock the sensor in place.

Also, did you by chance use an oiled K&N type filter before? If so, can't hurt to buy a can of maf sensor cleaner spray at the local Cdn Tire.

I was using an airaid CAI before this, yes. It was a dry filter though.

 

[Tommy V]

I would gap the plugs at 28 to 30 although i dont think that is your problem if your having problem with power at lower rpms.Check to make sure your imrc's are working correctley.I dont see your log but i also doubt fuel is the issue if u dont have knock.Also make sure all your pvc hose connections are tight.

 

[SolarFlare]

When you say issues with power down low, do you mean taking off from a light or stop sign or you mean cruising in 4th gear at 40mph and trying to get on it and pass someone??

 

[markmurfie]

The only log that show a problem with spark at WOT is log 4. The other two look fine. At partial throttle all logs spark look ok. All of them show a high RPM MAF signal flutter. It was suggested, but not in your logs, to check your IMRC positions. They could be causing this flutter issue. Your Throttle angle is indicating the same flutter, but not to a degree that it should be a concern.

If you are referring to the partial throttle feel being sluggish it may be the way VCT is tuned. With that partial throttle spark comes in low and slow. Your exhaust is staying at 0. Comparing to stock VCT, which is not bad at all, It usually should retard up until .5 load at low RPMs. This helps speed up the slow moving air by giving it a place to go. peak EVC retard can be reduced to reduce exhaust reversion from a restrictive exhaust that has high back pressure. With a less restrictive exhaust, like yours, it should not need to be reduced as much. From the ability to leave the exhaust retarded with less reversion of exhaust gases, gives a long effective power stroke, as the exhaust vale opens later, meaning more torque. If you look at the chart, Exhaust only retards once you are WOT.

Stock the intake cam will also slightly retard from its already retarded position(relative to its mid lock base position), which in a FI application(or less restrictive intake) this motion could be eliminated, but you still want it to be at a retarded opening of its mid phase lock base position. Yours is doing the opposite and advancing to 0. This causes the valve to open sooner to a higher cylinder pressure and a piston pushing against airflow when airflow and manifold pressure is lowest.

The VCT has different modes for different loads and RPMs. Some times to keep things simple tuners eliminate a mode or two. This is the OP mode everyone hears about. Simple to tune but not better for drivability and partial throttle power. Recently tho threes been things in lund's logs that they don't actually tune for and its caused by a bad flash. I would say flash your stock tune back on, then flash the latest revision you got from them. Check the logs again and make sure your cams are moving appropriately as I described.

 

[brettzo007]

The only log that show a problem with spark at WOT is log 4. The other two look fine. At partial throttle all logs spark look ok. All of them show a high RPM MAF signal flutter. It was suggested, but not in your logs, to check your IMRC positions. They could be causing this flutter issue. Your Throttle angle is indicating the same flutter, but not to a degree that it should be a concern.

If you are referring to the partial throttle feel being sluggish it may be the way VCT is tuned. With that partial throttle spark comes in low and slow. Your exhaust is staying at 0. Comparing to stock VCT, which is not bad at all, It usually should retard up until .5 load at low RPMs. This helps speed up the slow moving air by giving it a place to go. peak EVC retard can be reduced to reduce exhaust reversion from a restrictive exhaust that has high back pressure. With a less restrictive exhaust, like yours, it should not need to be reduced as much. From the ability to leave the exhaust retarded with less reversion of exhaust gases, gives a long effective power stroke, as the exhaust vale opens later, meaning more torque. If you look at the chart, Exhaust only retards once you are WOT.

Stock the intake cam will also slightly retard from its already retarded position(relative to its mid lock base position), which in a FI application(or less restrictive intake) this motion could be eliminated, but you still want it to be at a retarded opening of its mid phase lock base position. Yours is doing the opposite and advancing to 0. This causes the valve to open sooner to a higher cylinder pressure and a piston pushing against airflow when airflow and manifold pressure is lowest.

The VCT has different modes for different loads and RPMs. Some times to keep things simple tuners eliminate a mode or two. This is the OP mode everyone hears about. Simple to tune but not better for drivability and partial throttle power. Recently tho threes been things in lund's logs that they don't actually tune for and its caused by a bad flash. I would say flash your stock tune back on, then flash the latest revision you got from them. Check the logs again and make sure your cams are moving appropriately as I described.

Thank you very much for the detailed overview. I will return to stock and re flash their tune to record some more logs.

 

[brettzo007]

The only log that show a problem with spark at WOT is log 4. The other two look fine. At partial throttle all logs spark look ok. All of them show a high RPM MAF signal flutter. It was suggested, but not in your logs, to check your IMRC positions. They could be causing this flutter issue. Your Throttle angle is indicating the same flutter, but not to a degree that it should be a concern.

If you are referring to the partial throttle feel being sluggish it may be the way VCT is tuned. With that partial throttle spark comes in low and slow. Your exhaust is staying at 0. Comparing to stock VCT, which is not bad at all, It usually should retard up until .5 load at low RPMs. This helps speed up the slow moving air by giving it a place to go. peak EVC retard can be reduced to reduce exhaust reversion from a restrictive exhaust that has high back pressure. With a less restrictive exhaust, like yours, it should not need to be reduced as much. From the ability to leave the exhaust retarded with less reversion of exhaust gases, gives a long effective power stroke, as the exhaust vale opens later, meaning more torque. If you look at the chart, Exhaust only retards once you are WOT.

Stock the intake cam will also slightly retard from its already retarded position(relative to its mid lock base position), which in a FI application(or less restrictive intake) this motion could be eliminated, but you still want it to be at a retarded opening of its mid phase lock base position. Yours is doing the opposite and advancing to 0. This causes the valve to open sooner to a higher cylinder pressure and a piston pushing against airflow when airflow and manifold pressure is lowest.

The VCT has different modes for different loads and RPMs. Some times to keep things simple tuners eliminate a mode or two. This is the OP mode everyone hears about. Simple to tune but not better for drivability and partial throttle power. Recently tho threes been things in lund's logs that they don't actually tune for and its caused by a bad flash. I would say flash your stock tune back on, then flash the latest revision you got from them. Check the logs again and make sure your cams are moving appropriately as I described.

Thought I would update (in case anyone else ever experiences) that I ended up re-flashing back to stock config and then flashing the final tune rev back, as well as gapped plugs to .032 from .025 and major difference. Things are night and day better and the car pulls hard, consistently under WOT.

I think the re-flash had a lot to do with things, as I drove it for a little while just with the tune flash before getting to plugs and seemed quite a bit better.

Thanks all for the help

 

[Davepurp]

glad to hear, any new logs?

 

[Mustang_Lou]

Thought I would update (in case anyone else ever experiences) that I ended up re-flashing back to stock config and then flashing the final tune rev back, as well as gapped plugs to .032 from .025 and major difference. Things are night and day better and the car pulls hard, consistently under WOT.

I think the re-flash had a lot to do with things, as I drove it for a little while just with the tune flash before getting to plugs and seemed quite a bit better.

Thanks all for the help

That's got to be a relief. Think it's worth the cost now? ie. is THAT much more powerful than before?

Btw, are you local to the Toronto GTA area?

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