That was my next question. I usually wait until 80deg Celsius + (175* f) before I even go over 2,500rpm. I started doing this more recently and may had previously been driving the car a bit too hard under full temp. Maybe a few degrees shy. Doesn't seem to have made a difference, but will...
Saw your video. Yes, the level of oil on your dipstick is generally where mine is after 500-600KM down from half way between the markers. I did find it helpful checking oil after the car has been sitting overnight each time for all of the oil to drain back in to the pan and for consistent...
I usually fill halfway between both marks. After 500-600KM I am halfway between the bottom of the stick and the first mark generally. I then fill back to the middle of the marks and the same results ensue each time.
I know this topic has been covered numerous times and yes I've searched, however I seem to be consuming quite a bit of oil on my 2016. I have owned the car for 2.5 months and have put 3,000KM (1,800 miles) on so far. The car now has 5,200KM (3,200 miles) on the odometer. Since owning the car I...
I have been working with a tuner on my Procharged 2015 and for some reason on my latest tune revision (for the first time), my track apps are failing. I use them infrequently, but do find line lock handy at the track. A couple of weeks ago I activated line lock, did a burn out and about 3...
Hey All,
Excited to get back in to the season in a month or so and planning some additional mods. I'm currently running a Procharger Stage 2 P1SC kit on my 2015 with a 4.63 pulley (still only getting around 7psi boost) and looking to add some boost. I was having quite a few issues with the...
Load is still falling off periodically based on logs. They feel I have a boost leak, or a belt tension problem. The belt is definitely tight and all hose connections are sturdy. Anyone know if the black bypass value could be leaking? Before the install I had looked inside the valve and did...
Give that a try and also check the AC line bracket mount bolt. Mine was contacting the headers. If your headers are catted, bang on them with something to see if the rattle like mine were before I deleted them.
UPDATE: I re-flashed back to stock and then the most recent Lund revision today and knock for the most part is gone and timing is being added in most instances. The car feels significantly better today after the changes noted earlier in the thread completed a couple of days ago. I just drove for...
Here's a log from the other day. 9.99* max retard in this log in first gear around 6000rpm, up from what used to be around 3-5*. This is after deleting header cats (one was rattling when pounding on it), removing AC bracket bolt and checking the entire car over. I just don't get it anymore...
I had the car in the shop yesterday and we checked literally everything. Though we did find that one of my header cats was rattling a bit, nothing else was really found, aside from deleting the AC mount bolt, as there were signs of potential contact with headers. Completed a cat delete as well...
Having a shop take a look at everything on my car next week. I too found it very odd that the car was adding timing (though was still sporadically pulling timing - just not nearly as badly) on one tune rev. The car felt much better, but then sure enough, lean codes on both banks. Hoping to have...
They're adamant that something is loose on the car. Either vac line, or exhaust connections/something touching headers potentially. I'm going on 30 log sessions now.
Will have it up on a lift soon to rule everything else out. Will also pull the MAF sensor and check it.
So an update...Getting a bit frustrated. Received another tune rev today and it feels horrible. Bogged down, weird timing everywhere and an overall horrible driving experience. Tuner is now asking whether I have vacuum leaks. I'm 100% certain I'm not and they're basically saying it doesn't make...