Not quite. A MAF sensor needs to know the size of the tube that it is in to correctly translate the amount of air flowing through it. The "no tune" comes with a MAF sensor that already knows it is in a larger tube. The "tune" version uses your stock sensor and a tuner must program it to know it is inside of a larger tube. In the end, they are the same intake, using the same type of MAF sensor. One comes already tuned, the other needs tuned.great to see the results, been following the other thread a while now.
I think people are being confused by the tune and no tune versions. Correct me if I am wrong please.
The 'Tune' version uses your current MAF sensor and looks at the cars 'tune' to increase the air/fuel mix.
The 'no tune' version is with a supplied MAF sensor and updated table for airflow and communicates this increase to the stock PCM tune.
Think of the 'no tune' as 'no tune required' or a 'MAF tune', and the 'Tune' version as a stock MAF relying on an PCM tune.
Not quite. A MAF sensor needs to know the size of the tube that it is in to correctly translate the amount of air flowing through it. The "no tune" comes with a MAF sensor that already knows it is in a larger tube. The "tune" version uses your stock sensor and a tuner must program it to know it is inside of a larger tube. In the end, they are the same intake, using the same type of MAF sensor. One comes already tuned, the other needs tuned.
You can Google "maf transfer function" for further info on this.
I have one on the way for my car and I plan on doing some testing with it, though all my testing is done at the track. Can't guaranty any HP numbers at the moment, but the trap speed should show good gains. Already have my Lund tune revision!Finally some results.... would love to see what the tune version is capable of.. alreay heard that LUND has already been messing around with these...
Quite a few people prefer track gains then dynos anyway. Dynos numbers are worthless to the hardcore enthusiast. The casual enthusiast care about dyno numbers.I have one on the way for my car and I plan on doing some testing with it, though all my testing is done at the track. Can't guaranty any HP numbers at the moment, but the trap speed should show good gains. Already have my Lund tune revision!
Yeah, I personally don't care much for dyno numbers but they can be a useful tuning tool. However, you'd be surprised with how much people really do care about dyno numbers. I try to explain to them to not put so much stock into it and just enjoy the car and take it to the track to really see how the car is performing. :cheers:Quite a few people prefer track gains then dynos anyway. Dynos numbers are worthless to the hardcore enthusiast. The casual enthusiast care about dyno numbers.
I think a lot of people care about dynos because the majority are more of a casual enthusiast. They have no interest in racing at the track multiple times a week. They care about meets and maybe an occasional street race. Hence why i label them casual. But i agree i typically ignore dynosYeah, I personally don't care much for dyno numbers but they can be a useful tuning tool. However, you'd be surprised with how much people really do care about dyno numbers. I try to explain to them to not put so much stock into it and just enjoy the car and take it to the track to really see how the car is performing. :cheers:
Dev, thanks for doing your testing on the dyno, should satisfy a lot of people to see independent results.
There is at least one forum member with this intake and the GT350 manifold but I do not believe he has dynoed it but I will bet vs the stock airbox close to 20 whp gains in the higher RPMs due to greater airmass demands with the GT350 intake. Stock intake cars typically see 42-44lbs/min max but GT350 or similar manifold equipped cars should be seeing closer to 50-52lbs/min.So does anyone have fun results with a tune and or a GT350 intake manifold?
Manufacturer claims are one thing (especially when no dyno sheets are produced). Actual non-vendor produced numbers are another. JLT requires a tune - so very hard to say how much of that 12-15 is coming from the intake vs. the tune.So real world results say it's no better than the rest of the current systems on the market.
JLT Claims 12-15whp over the stock box
Steeda Claims 22whp (still have yet to see an independent test)
Roush claims 10whp
Airaid ?
Flow charts, 1000+ post threads, function over form...and it makes the same power.
Needless to say pick which one you like the best in value, looks, customer support and options
It's easy to just adjust the MAF only but leave the rest of the tune alone to get consistent before and after results.Manufacturer claims are one thing (especially when no dyno sheets are produced). Actual non-vendor produced numbers are another. JLT requires a tune - so very hard to say how much of that 12-15 is coming from the intake vs. the tune.