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Paint correction + PPF or ceramic coating?

stannypack

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Was thinking of just biting the bullet and getting a paint correction and frontal facing ppf on my new GT, how much money are we talking about?

Or would paint correction + full ceramic coating make more sense since I'm parked outdoors and do a rinseless wash every week?

Thanks
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DadzMach

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You will need to do the full correction if you are going to do ceramic. If you are going to spend the money on ceramic, I wouldn’t suggest if you are just going to be doing rinseless washes. Each time you do a rinseless wash you will leave micro scratches behind. Not sure what color your car is and that will play a big part in how it holds up. I would absolutely plan on PPF at least on the front bumper, A pillars, around your door handles and the door edges at the bare minimum. That will at least keep the front from getting chipped up but adding the hood would be a good idea as well. The PPF should also help keep those micro scratches from showing; again the color will also make a difference.
On my car I did what I said to you, just the front end and complete car with ceramic. My car is also parked in the garage and hand washed anytime it is in need of a cleaning. My car is also Grabber Blue Metallic so it would be more difficult to see micro scratches then say Eruption Green or any darker color.
You are looking at a large financial choice here. So if you are OCD like most of us, you will probably at the very least want to hand wash the car properly when it’s dirty. Many people put the PPF all over the entire car. Personally since my car is garages and hand washed and not driven a ton, I thought it was a bit crazy to spend the $4-$5k that most people were quoting for full PPF on top of the $1500+ for the ceramic.

So in the end, it’s up to you and your level of OCD. Hope that is helpful for you??
 

XeninWorX

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PPF. Ceramic only lasts a few years. Still can’t tell my wife’s Accord has PPF and it’s been on since 2016. Full bumper, hood and fenders.
 
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stannypack

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You will need to do the full correction if you are going to do ceramic. If you are going to spend the money on ceramic, I wouldn’t suggest if you are just going to be doing rinseless washes. Each time you do a rinseless wash you will leave micro scratches behind. Not sure what color your car is and that will play a big part in how it holds up. I would absolutely plan on PPF at least on the front bumper, A pillars, around your door handles and the door edges at the bare minimum. That will at least keep the front from getting chipped up but adding the hood would be a good idea as well. The PPF should also help keep those micro scratches from showing; again the color will also make a difference.
On my car I did what I said to you, just the front end and complete car with ceramic. My car is also parked in the garage and hand washed anytime it is in need of a cleaning. My car is also Grabber Blue Metallic so it would be more difficult to see micro scratches then say Eruption Green or any darker color.
You are looking at a large financial choice here. So if you are OCD like most of us, you will probably at the very least want to hand wash the car properly when it’s dirty. Many people put the PPF all over the entire car. Personally since my car is garages and hand washed and not driven a ton, I thought it was a bit crazy to spend the $4-$5k that most people were quoting for full PPF on top of the $1500+ for the ceramic.

So in the end, it’s up to you and your level of OCD. Hope that is helpful for you??
Thanks, my logic was that since I'm doing weekly rinseless washes and am parked outdoors, I'd want ceramic coating to make the washes easier plus save time since no need for waxing afterwards. Now I'm considering doing frontal PPF + the rest ceramic coated. and mine is shadow black
 

DadzMach

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Thanks, my logic was that since I'm doing weekly rinseless washes and am parked outdoors, I'd want ceramic coating to make the washes easier plus save time since no need for waxing afterwards. Now I'm considering doing frontal PPF + the rest ceramic coated. and mine is shadow black
Being shadow black would make me for sure to PPF and full, very high quality Ceramic. You will need to be very careful with black and make sure you have the best quality towels and use lots of detail spray for ceramic often to keep as clean as possible.
 

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@stannypack : Are you unable or unwilling to do a normal wash rather than the rinseless idea? I ask for the same reason as Matt since the waterless method is definitely going to put fine scratches in your clear coat, no way around it.

So, if you want to stick with your current washing routine, PPF or ceramic is a must simply to protect the paint from the rinseless washes.

I get that PPF is by far the most costly protection and while ceramic won't prevent ALL scratches, it will prevent a good amount.

Applying ceramic on top of PPF only yields much easier washing due to the hydrophoboic properties of the coating but it only provides some slight protection of the film which is minimal at best so you would only coat PPF if you want a more pleasant car washing experience not for additional protection.

Since you obviously care or you wouldn't have asked the question you did, I say go with a full paint correction and ceramic coating. If properly cared for and if a good quality (upper name brands,) coating is used, you should get at least two years of protection before needing a topper coat.

But, if you want nearly complete paint protection then go with a full paint correction and full PPF.

The best bang for the buck though would be ceramic only or ceramic and partial PPF on the frontal-exposed paint areas.
 
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stannypack

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@stannypack : Are you unable or unwilling to do a normal wash rather than the rinseless idea? I ask for the same reason as Matt since the waterless method is definitely going to put fine scratches in your clear coat, no way around it.

So, if you want to stick with your current washing routine, PPF or ceramic is a must simply to protect the paint from the rinseless washes.

I get that PPF is by far the most costly protection and while ceramic won't prevent ALL scratches, it will prevent a good amount.

Applying ceramic on top of PPF only yields much easier washing due to the hydrophoboic properties of the coating but it only provides some slight protection of the film which is minimal at best so you would only coat PPF if you want a more pleasant car washing experience not for additional protection.

Since you obviously care or you wouldn't have asked the question you did, I say go with a full paint correction and ceramic coating. If properly cared for and if a good quality (upper name brands,) coating is used, you should get at least two years of protection before needing a topper coat.

But, if you want nearly complete paint protection then go with a full paint correction and full PPF.

The best bang for the buck though would be ceramic only or ceramic and partial PPF on the frontal-exposed paint areas.
I live in an apartment so there's no running water to do a normal wash, and the nearest self service bay is pretty far. Depending on how much they quote for frontal PPF I'll probably just go full paint correction + ceramic and use dr colorship for any rockchips in the future since I'm not super anal about defects, mainly just trying to make my weekly rinseless washes a bit easier
 
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stannypack

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I also forgot to take into account that in the future I'd like to get a more aggressive carbon fiber hood and GT500 bumper conversion, so maybe I should just hold on the PPF and put the cost of it towards that...
 
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stannypack

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Also, am I missing something here, but if the most time consuming part of ceramic coating is the detail + paint correction, why does it cost 1000+? I see full paint correction for $300 max, after that doesn't the ceramic coating take maybe 30 mins?
 

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Also, am I missing something here, but if the most time consuming part of ceramic coating is the detail + paint correction, why does it cost 1000+? I see full paint correction for $300 max, after that doesn't the ceramic coating take maybe 30 mins?
Kind of a mystery to be honest. I have been quoted $X,XXX without anyone seeing my car, so if paint correction is part of it I don’t see how it’s possible to quote a price without seeing it.
You can buy the professional grade ceramic for about $3-$400 a bottle if you can find a shop to sell it to you, it’s dealer only who have been through training. I know a few people that will sell me their “professional” vs. “consumer” grade. As far as the actual process of just doing the ceramic, I would say a solid 30-45 minutes being extra careful not to miss any spots; I’m sure less for a professional.
 

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stannypack

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Ceramic and PPF will run you about 2700-3100 (this includes paint correction)
That's how much my new rims and tires will run me, so not worth it for now. I'm not super anal about imperfections/blemishes, maybe I should hold on the paint correction + ceramic until my car starts looking real ugly lol
 

DR_Mach1Yote

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That's how much my new rims and tires will run me, so not worth it for now. I'm not super anal about imperfections/blemishes, maybe I should hold on the paint correction + ceramic until my car starts looking real ugly lol

Absolutely do what's best for you, just know that fixing rock chips and swirl marks does bring up the cost of paint correction. There are levels to it. Not all shops are the same but I would not drive any new car without PPF especially if you drive in a group of fast cars. Fast cars + sticky tires = lots of rock chips. However I understand everyone has a different financial situations.
 

DR_Mach1Yote

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Kind of a mystery to be honest. I have been quoted $X,XXX without anyone seeing my car, so if paint correction is part of it I don’t see how it’s possible to quote a price without seeing it.
You can buy the professional grade ceramic for about $3-$400 a bottle if you can find a shop to sell it to you, it’s dealer only who have been through training. I know a few people that will sell me their “professional” vs. “consumer” grade. As far as the actual process of just doing the ceramic, I would say a solid 30-45 minutes being extra careful not to miss any spots; I’m sure less for a professional.

not much of a mystery, ok here we go and again this is how we do it at my shop.
1-soap blast and pressure wash entire vehicle 15-30min
2-chemical decon wash 25-35 min in climate control or shaded area ( paying for this shadded or climate controlled area) you should never do chemical wash in heat above 75 or in direct sunlight, do not let it dry as it will stain paint (colors matter in the $$$)
3-clay bar entire vehicle 35-1hr
4-soap pressure wash vehicle again 10-15min usually faster at this point as vehicle has been cleaned and clayed.
5-remove wheels clean wheels and calipers 1-2hr
6- rotary buff entire vehicle 2hrs
7- orbital buff to remove holo's and extra marks
8-Polish entire vehicle 2-3hrs
9-bring vehicle in climate control area and clean entire vehicle with alchy and citrus to remove all polishing oils 20-30min
10- depending on product coat vehicle base coat then come back and hit vehicle with top coat 1hr base 1hr topcoat 2-4 hr flash time in between.

add up all that time and oh be insured incase you mess up some ones lambo, bently..etc we charge $1300-1600 depending on color and condition and get it everyday as we are booked out a month or more depending. we do 2-3 cars a week only.

again levels to this and quality not every is the same.
 

DadzMach

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not much of a mystery, ok here we go and again this is how we do it at my shop.
1-soap blast and pressure wash entire vehicle 15-30min
2-chemical decon wash 25-35 min in climate control or shaded area ( paying for this shadded or climate controlled area) you should never do chemical wash in heat above 75 or in direct sunlight, do not let it dry as it will stain paint (colors matter in the $$$)
3-clay bar entire vehicle 35-1hr
4-soap pressure wash vehicle again 10-15min usually faster at this point as vehicle has been cleaned and clayed.
5-remove wheels clean wheels and calipers 1-2hr
6- rotary buff entire vehicle 2hrs
7- orbital buff to remove holo's and extra marks
8-Polish entire vehicle 2-3hrs
9-bring vehicle in climate control area and clean entire vehicle with alchy and citrus to remove all polishing oils 20-30min
10- depending on product coat vehicle base coat then come back and hit vehicle with top coat 1hr base 1hr topcoat 2-4 hr flash time in between.

add up all that time and oh be insured incase you mess up some ones lambo, bently..etc we charge $1300-1600 depending on color and condition and get it everyday as we are booked out a month or more depending. we do 2-3 cars a week only.

again levels to this and quality not every is the same.
Thanks very much for the knowledge! It is a shame this is not made more clear to more Customers because if I were just told all of this and not given a price yet, I would expect it to be higher! I think the prices are very fair knowing this information.
Being a business owner myself in the past (I sold my Company 6 years ago) I totally understand and appreciate and see the value I am getting when it’s broken down like this. Just like an Auto Mechanic who is certified (and if not then less hourly wage) I am paying for their knowledge and their tools and their work space. People normally and conveniently forget about the costs to the owner and/or business. The “widget” I used to sell in my own business cost me $8.00, I sold it for $12.00. As the years went on and other people started copying my business model my costs went to say $800 for the widget itself and then the technology needed to make sure it was real and the people we had to use to verify, my total cost went to about $1200/widget with a sales pric of $2500. The average consumer doesn’t think of all the costs involved.
I really appreciate you taking you time and educating all of us on what this should cost and why. This will hopefully change many people’s view on why they are paying this price for ALL this work and time. It seems very fair to me.
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