P2112 code on whipple throttle body.

[1evl_gt350]

So I've been having problems with my whipple superchargers throttle body this weekend.i was at shift sector trying to make a run and as soon as floor it the throttle body gets stuck closed and the wrench light comes on.i reset the code and tried it again and same thing happened both times throwing a p2112 code which indicates the throttle body is stuck closed.has anyone had this problem with the gen5 whipple 3.0 132 throttle body?

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[mtoo22]

Yes. Replace the gasket with black RTV. Same issue on the 150 that I had and that fixed it. Search on here and you'll find plenty of info.

 

[1evl_gt350]

Thanks bro ill do that rite away.thanks for the help.

 

[gjpundsack]

You may need to have your tuner make some adjustments as well.

 

[1evl_gt350]

Thanks for the input guys,I just had whipple send me a new one since my warranty is about to run out in 2 months

 

[aedfam]

What's your TPS 1 and TPS 2 voltage readings (key on, engine off)? TPS 1 should read 4.1-4.2v and TPS 2 should be between .75-.85v. If the readings on your car say they are outside of these parameters they can set a "stuck open" code (P2111/P2112 tb code) and the car may even act as if it has a vauum leak. If they are way out of these parameters you would have to get them adjusted.

Although you say your warranty is almost up in 2 months so I'm assuming you've had the set up for a while? I'm thinking if it was a voltage issue it would had came up a long time ago....

 

[1evl_gt350]

True.ive been running the car for about 10months no issue.so rite away thought it had to be the throttle body.

 

[aedfam]

True.ive been running the car for about 10months no issue.so rite away thought it had to be the throttle body.

May be, but checking the TPS voltage wont hurt. You can check it with a scanner tool that reads TPS 1 and 2 or using a digital volt meter probe pin 3 for TPS 1 and pin 6 for TPS 2. It simple to check and might save you money/time.

 

[Adamone92]

May be, but checking the TPS voltage wont hurt. You can check it with a scanner tool that reads TPS 1 and 2 or using a digital volt meter probe pin 3 for TPS 1 and pin 6 for TPS 2. It simple to check and might save you money/time.

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you can also take off your CAI and set up a camera to watch your throttle body.
when you press the start button with ignition on engine off, the throttle body should do a quick little test and open and close itself a couple times. If its stuck closed or something else is wonky, it may not do this.

Sometimes the issue with these throttle bodies is more prevalent when it gets warm and things expand a tiny bit, so after doing this test, going around for a bit of a drive and then testing again might help.

black RTV I've seen help this and also helped my throttle body with my vmp odin. (it ended up having other issues though which the tests listed above helped diagnose).

 

[1evl_gt350]

Big shout out to whipple they sent me a replacement throttle body,only took 2 days.i installed it and used rtv instead of the gasket.see how that worked out.hope for the best.

 

[Halo911]

Thanks for the input guys,I just had whipple send me a new one since my warranty is about to run out in 2 months

Well you lucky they sucks to me my throttle body has the same problem and they haven’t help me at all plus one of my pulley is broken and they just said give us the address to ship it and never answer again

 

[1evl_gt350]

Well you lucky they sucks to me my throttle body has the same problem and they haven’t help me at all plus one of my pulley is broken and they just said give us the address to ship it and never answer again

That sucks.i have a couple of pulleys for sale let me know if ur interested

 

[Halo911]

That sucks.i have a couple of pulleys for sale let me know if ur interested

Sure whipple told me they will send me another one but haven’t hear again about them so if they don’t send me a new one ill let you know

 

[Andy13186]

My post from a different thread regarding Whipple throttle body issues. My code was p2119 but maybe your fix would be the same or similar :


"I think I got this throttle body issue fixed on my car, not by doing the gasket maker because that did not work for me and yes I tried it and had the code about 10 times after that. The gasket maker is still on my throttle body though.

2018+ cant do any electronic voltage adjustments with the throttle body according to the Whipple tech I was talking to. What I had to do was loosen the set screw which is on the throttle body facing toward the motor, then screw the adjustment screw that is on top of the throttle body inward like 1/8th of a turn then tighten the set screw. Then test to see if you get the issue again. Easiest way for me to replicate it was to just break the tires loose hard in first or 2nd gear, sometimes when hitting 3rd gear too.

If you do get the issue again obviously you will have to pull over and restart your car, while you are pulled over loosen the set screw again then tighten the adjustment screw another 1/8th of a turn or less. Then go try to replicate the issue again.


I had to adjust mine about 4 times but now I havent got the p2119 code to come back for a few days and I have been trying to have it happen pretty hard. I literally did about 100+ rolling burnouts last weekend adjusting the screw and trying to get the code to happen - this was pretty insane and seemed abusive but just keep the car cool enough , drive for a few mins between attempts, dont hit the limiter, try not to have the advancetrac kick in, do it in a safe place where you can pull over safely, etc.

If you want, you can fully disable advancetrac, but I dont like doing that because I hit a pole at 45 mph 3 years ago ripping a burnout and totaled my CTS-V. I found the best setting to not have advancetrac kick in is track mode with TCS off. Track mode displays TCS off by default in this mode but it is not off. Try it, put your car into track mode and the traction control light will light up by default, but then if you hit the TCS off switch the car will say "traction control off". This mode seems to give advancetrac a ton of lee-way and it wont kick in easily at all if you stay straight enough. My tires arent too happy though lol they were needing replacement anyway soon.


Also If you go outward on the set screw you will have idle surge issues. So if you get idle surge issues you probably went the wrong way. Screw it in until you dont have surging -or just never unscrew the adjustment screw from how yours came if its not surging. "

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