P0335 Cranshaft positon Sensor

[Emario]

Hey, so I own a 2020 mustang gt for 2 years now never had an issue with the car, until now. I was beating on the car around 2 month ago, and all of a sudden car overheated and the car would not start. Ended up towing my car to my house and tried figuring out the problem. The next day after everything had cool off I tried cranking the car and it cranked for around 10 seconds and then started right up, I was excited, Until... car went into limp mode and the idle was rough and when i rev the car it was reving really rough. I plugged my obd device and found a couple of codes. P0339 P0100 P0171 P0174 P0300. So I reset the codes and read the codes again and the only code that came back were p0335 and P0339. A week later I towed the car to a shop and it sat there for 6 Weeks, mechanic kept lying to me about working on the car and i showed up at the shop and my car was just there collecting dust. I have now towed my car back to my house and started to work on it myself( I am 20 years old I have somewhat knowledge with working on cars because I have done work on many other cars). I have replace Spark Plugs, and i also took out all the injectors and cleaned them out, also change the cranshaft position sensor and tried to do a crank relearn but its not possible, because the car is still reving pretty rough and its starts to back fire. Forscan procedure is to rev the car to 4350 rpms and release the Gas pedal. I have been able to rev the car up that high but yet again it seems to not be programming the sensor, Which makes me believe there is something more going on beside a bad sensor. Also not to mention the fans on the car are not coming on not sure why, I jump the fans relay and fans come on that way but with the relay on they wont come on. also a/c is not coming on the car blows air but a/c not blowing cold I got a code for the a/c P1464, Im thinking it could be the high pressure sensor not sure will have to check on that. I also did a PCM on demand test with the engine off through forscan and radiator fans came on during the test, but not sure why the car does not turn the fans on regularly. Im not sure if the coolant temperature is bad, well I will say that I believe the sensor is good do to me turning on the car and I see the temperature gauge go up as the car warms up, car never goes pass the middle of the temperature gauge but I can feel the engine getting hot and fans not coming on, also Cylinder temps were 260 and no fans came on, I will say im not sure if its the same as the coolant but I would think the cylinder heads getting hot would trigger the coolant system fans to try stay cooler, once again im not sure Im going through the process. Okay now getting back on track, I was reading on some threads on here about the Crank sensor Ring (Tone ring) going bad im not sure as to how or what goes bad on them but thats is where im leaning towars now, I will order the tone ring and will be replacing it during this upcoming week, hopefully. also I have check my crankshaft sensor connector and connector wires and they seem to be good this is almost a brand new car beside it having 54k miles (I am the second Owner). I know the long process of replacing the tone ring but yet again I have done a similar process before, For example replacing the timing chain cassett on my old 2010 4.0 mustang which you have to remove the tranmission which in this case with my 2020 gt is simillar process and also the location of those parts are literally the same.


If you read through this whole post I appreciate you, If you have any knowledge of my situation I would appreciate a reply.

Also I will becoming back to this thread In hopes of find out whats really wrong with the car and If I find the issue it could help someone in the future.



Once again I did read on a different thread something about the tone ring going bad, or "misaligned" and the delearship replace the parts and got the car running again. Which is the reason im incline on replacing the tone ring.

Any information Would be of help.

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[Cobra Jet]

You have to start with one item, test/diagnose and then move to the next by process of elimination. Throwing a lot of parts at the car all at once, jumping from one hypothesis to another, and clearing all codes isn’t the best practice…

Tone ring won’t go “bad”. A tone ring can become damaged (teeth can get bent or the ring itself can get bent) if damaged when doing a trans R&R or clutch R&R. It takes something to damage the tone ring, it just doesn’t fail like a sensor as it’s only a piece of metal.

The P0300 is just a crap generic “misfire” code which is extremely common with any modern vehicle. This code doesn’t tell you squat, unless you have the Ford Shop Manual and follow the entire step by step testing as to if this then go to XYZ step, or if not this go to XYZ step…. It’s a very lengthy diagnosis to fool with a P0300. If it were a P0303 or a P0307, those would be exact cylinder codes (cylinder 3 and cylinder 7). Then you would be able to do a better process of elimination with an exacting P0xxx code over a standard P0300.

The crank sensor which reads the tone ring is at the back of the engine. Did you pull that sensor out to see if there was any damage to the end of it OR if debris was sticking to it?

If you were beating on the car, there is the possibility of the timing chain jumping or it could be damaged, the stock crank sprocket is also known to break off teeth (there’s threads about this on here too)….

Start with 1 code and go from there; do methodical testing, don't rush through treating/diagnosing, and don’t jump from that code until you have eliminated it or fixed why it’s tripping.

 

[Johnny Rockit]

What codes did you clear in the first place? Did you save a screenshot?

 

[Emario]

Thanks for the advice, the p0300 code has not come back, only the p0335, I have replace the sensor and when I first changed it had no debris or shaving. I will say I replaced it with one I got from o’reilly but after I removed it again the sensor was shaved unlike the oem one when I first removed it not sure why, now I did bought a new crank sensor from ford and reinstalled it, but I have not yet check if that one got shaved as well, but is weird because the first one I replace was not shave, I did made sure the sensor went in the correct way, there’s really only one way it can go since it has the bolt bracket attached to it making other way of going in impossible.

I will check on that about the timing chain jumping I will say it could be that since the car takes long to start it cranks about 6-10 second every time, car idles good I do not here anything tick or taping coming from the engine. Engine does back fire and runs rough when I rev it up. I will check on other threads.

 

[Emario]

What codes did you clear in the first place? Did you save a screenshot?

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