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P0300 codes drama

BlueStang16

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I own a '16 GT, so it is the Gen2 Coyote. P0306 and 308 codes thrown a couple months ago. I've got 110k miles on the clock. I did spark plug swaps at 88k with Bosch Double Iridiums. Cleared out the codes fine. A few weeks ago, same codes. Replaced the ignition coils on all eight, checked the plugs for burn and char - nothing out of the ordinary. Put it all back together but the codes remained, however it was purring like a kitten. So I bought new ignition coils. No change, same codes. Swapped the coils 6 and 8 for 2 and 4. P0306 was gone, but 0308 remained, and P0300 code thrown. But no driving issues.

Then in the last 10 days, it would backfire shifting between 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Driving to work one morning this week the check engine light started flashing, then went solid. I turned around and got back home. Put it in the shop for 4 days. They pulled the same codes, ran their diagnostics, swapped out spark plugs for OEM Motorcraft ones I bought (just checking all the boxes), cleared the codes and drove the car around.

They called me saying they couldn't detect any more issues, no codes being thrown, and asked around when the engine light would come back on, as it has been doing that for a few weeks. I asked them to drive it past 100 miles on the clock to try and replicate my issues. They drove it for 3 days with no codes, no lights, and no backfires, draining a half tank of gas. I asked about the IMRC, vacuum leaks, and the fuel injectors. They ruled them all out. They said the cylinders are good, too. So I went to pick it up. Yup, purring like a kitten and powerful again.

I've had the car back about half a day. Drove it all day today. No issues. Been out for 12 or 13 hours doing errands. On the drive home tonight, check engine light came on solid, but no issues until I got off the freeway and had to start shifting. A couple of pops going up from a stop at 2nd and 4th, but nothing like before. Got home and plugged in my reader and sure as heck, P0300 and P0308. WTH?

I am stumped. Anybody go through a similar thing? I'm looking for the root cause and solution(s). Or should I cash out my chips and get rid of this car as I have already dumped more $ into it in 2 years than I have with any other car. I love my 'Stang, but it is teeing me off. Thanks in advance.
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I think the first two posts here are the most likely (If it's the IMRC, when you replace the IM get the MMR IMRC lock out), but if not, also check your rear wheel bearings and in particular the blue thrust washer the sits on the axle against the bearing, if it's worn it can throw up codes as it interferes with the ABS.
 
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BlueStang16

BlueStang16

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New clutch recently? ,Have you tried performing a crank relearn?q
No, clutch is solid and no need to replace. I'll talk to my mechanic and see if they can do a relearn, thanks

Would hate to take it to dealership for their markup plus $150 "diagnostics" to tell me what I already know.
 

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BlueStang16

BlueStang16

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I think the first two posts here are the most likely (If it's the IMRC, when you replace the IM get the MMR IMRC lock out), but if not, also check your rear wheel bearings and in particular the blue thrust washer the sits on the axle against the bearing, if it's worn it can throw up codes as it interferes with the ABS.
Yeah, been thinking about buying a used Gen2 intake as I really don't want to spend the $ for the harness and wiring extensions needed in the Gen3 manifold. Can you tell me if the lockout is a separate piece of equipment or something the mechanic can do with the new intake? Thanks for the help.
 

CowboyJohn

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I am having the same issue with my sons 2015 also at 110K miles. 0300 and 0308 codes. I initially thought it was from a cracked plug in #8, but new plugs and COP's and same issue. I swapped fuel injectors between 7 and 8, but the code stays with cylinder 8.

I'm about 90% certain it is the IMRC rod. I think I am going to try to repair it like Turnbull Garage did to his wife's 2015.

I would be skeptical of a used Gen 2 intake. My guess is it just a matter of time before the rod in used one would break.

From what I have researched a Gen 3 manifold requires a tune on top of about 500.00 for the intake itself.

Does anyone know if the breakage is isolated to only the drivers side?

I mentioned on the thread that Turnbull started that someone should make a repair kit.

If I do mine successfully, I'll take some measurements and if I can source or make the end pieces make an extra or two.
 

NGOT8R

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Is the car tuned already and do you have a tuning device? If so, you should be able to find instructions online/YT for performing a crank relearn with your tuning device.
 
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BlueStang16

BlueStang16

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I am having the same issue with my sons 2015 also at 110K miles. 0300 and 0308 codes. I initially thought it was from a cracked plug in #8, but new plugs and COP's and same issue. I swapped fuel injectors between 7 and 8, but the code stays with cylinder 8.

I'm about 90% certain it is the IMRC rod. I think I am going to try to repair it like Turnbull Garage did to his wife's 2015.

I would be skeptical of a used Gen 2 intake. My guess is it just a matter of time before the rod in used one would break.

From what I have researched a Gen 3 manifold requires a tune on top of about 500.00 for the intake itself.

Does anyone know if the breakage is isolated to only the drivers side?

I mentioned on the thread that Turnbull started that someone should make a repair kit.

If I do mine successfully, I'll take some measurements and if I can source or make the end pieces make an extra or two.

Let me know what the results are. I am wary about dropping the $ on the Gen3 manifold, the additional hardware and a tune. Not looking to blow $1500 on this fix unless I absolutely have to and there's no other alternative. Appreciate the help.
 

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NGOT8R

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When I locked out my IMRCs on my Gen. 3 GT350 IM, it cost me $150 to have Lund turn them off for me in all four of my tunes.

I did mine at about 5600 miles and during inspection, could see signs on the plastic actuators of the square shape beginning to deform (round off). When that happens, that will cause a failure.
 

CowboyJohn

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I plan on pulling the intake and inspecting when it warms up a little and I am no longer driving it. My son is over seas and my plan was just to drive it occasionally, but my son is laws truck is in the shop and he is using my wife's car, she's diving my truck and I am driving my son's rocket ship.

If it is not the IMRC rod, then I guess I'll have my mechanic look at it.
 
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BlueStang16

BlueStang16

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Is the car tuned already and do you have a tuning device? If so, you should be able to find instructions online/YT for performing a crank relearn with your tuning device.
No, not tuned that I am aware of. I bought it used. Only mods were Air Raid CAI (I swapped that out for an Injen that doesn't require a tune), Roush Axle backs, RTR rims, and a Jensen center dash radio.

Haven't wanted to give it a tune, but if a tuner can perform a cam relearn, I'll look into it. Do you have a recommendation like Bama or Rev-X? Thanks for the help
 

NGOT8R

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No, not tuned that I am aware of. I bought it used. Only mods were Air Raid CAI (I swapped that out for an Injen that doesn't require a tune), Roush Axle backs, RTR rims, and a Jensen center dash radio.

Haven't wanted to give it a tune, but if a tuner can perform a cam relearn, I'll look into it. Do you have a recommendation like Bama or Rev-X? Thanks for the help
[/QUOTE

I have an nGauge tuner, but I’m pretty sure a current version of an SCT tuner has the same capability to perform a relearn.

I used Bama back in 2013 and the tuning device was an SCT, but never had any issues that required me to explore crank relearn with it.
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