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Ok, I'm an idiot sometimes...

BluePonyGT

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This is a question about clutch engagement - seriously. Just stay with me for a sec:

I decided to replace my belts and tension/idler pulleys last weekend while the weather was still cooperating. So I put the car on my speed ramps in case I had to crawl in underneath.

I used the simple roll-on stretch method for the A/C belt (ie pull all the plugs/coils and turn the engine over by hand while working the belt on from the back of the crank pulley). In other cases I've done this and it goes fairly quick. Since I was also teaching my son this would be a perfect lesson for him.

However, I haven't turned this coyote over before until now. I was surprised how damn hard it was. Sheesh I was working my tail off - I could maybe get a quarter turn (enough to move the breaker from the passenger side to the driver's side) with a 1/2" breaker, and the engine would not let me go any farther, then it would spring back. Wow.

I tried everything I could think of. Old school tricks, tools, etc. Before long I was slipping and hitting my hands, throwing tools, sweating like a fool, cussing, muttering to myself, pulling out more tools.

After 2 hours of this BS I realized when I put the car up on the speed ramps I left the transmission in 1st.

My 15 year old son had a good laugh at my expense, which is really the true lesson in all of this, but after we talked about what I did wrong and celebrated getting the belt on (which is super easy when you're not fighting the transmission) my son said:

"I'm surprised you could turn it at all..."

I started thinking about clutch engagement. I was wondering what that 1/4 turn was coming from. Since it's in 1st, but the wheels are on the ground am I simply stretching the springs in the clutch plate? That's my guess.
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WD Pro

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Driveline slop :like:

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Paul McWhiskey

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I did not do the math. but one or two turns of the crank is an extremely small amount of turn on the rear wheels in first gear. But what has me really confused is why you did not show your son how to use the belt tensioner to release the tension on the belt to remove and replace it? I mean that is not the way to show him the reward for hard work, Man. Sheesh! That is like using a wheelbarrow but only putting one shovel full of dirt in at a time to dig a 4X8X4.
 
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BluePonyGT

BluePonyGT

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I did not do the math. but one or two turns of the crank is an extremely small amount of turn on the rear wheels in first gear. But what has me really confused is why you did not show your son how to use the belt tensioner to release the tension on the belt to remove and replace it? I mean that is not the way to show him the reward for hard work, Man. Sheesh! That is like using a wheelbarrow but only putting one shovel full of dirt in at a time to dig a 4X8X4.
The A/C and Crank side belt has no tensioner. ;)

There's 2 belts. The other belt which runs the water pump, and alternator off the crank has a tensioner and an idler. That one was done in 5 minutes. We even chose to swap the idler and tensioner pulleys with a really nice set of dress-up billet style pulleys from Steeda. Super sharp.
 
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BluePonyGT

BluePonyGT

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Driveline slop :like:

WD :like:
I doubt it. There was enough back pressure I couldn't even get the wrench to click over. I knew something was off, but with the plugs and coils out there was nothing staring me in the face that looked obvious at the time, which if you read the title of this thread says it all. Definitely a facepalm moment.
 

Radiation Joe

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Getting back to your original question: prolly a combination of clutch disk spring/enginetransmounts/rear suspension rubber. There is a LOT of driveline compliance built into these cars.
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