jheissjr
Well-Known Member
The criteria to complete the OS2 and HRT drive cycles is in this document - https://www.fordservicecontent.com/ford_content/catalog/motorcraft/OBDSM1802-2018.pdf
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Crmsn18
Member
I had same issue when I bought my 2018 used. Took me forever to complete drive cycle. At the end I just drove to next major city by highway 200 miles away, drove in city during rush hour , and drove back home. It finished halfway back.
SheepDog
Well-Known Member
Stop clearing the codes. Every time you do, it resets all of the monitors
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthread.php?77814-Ford-Readiness-Monitors-Emissions-Tests
BullittBoy
Well-Known Member
It took me a while to get mine to set after I had cleared codes from a issue I was having. I got on the freeway and drove 10 miles at 60mph, purposely took an exit I could cruise down to 20mph without using the brakes, then did some stop and go driving and back on the freeway and held a constant 60mph for 10 more miles and repeated the exit and cruise down to 20mph without touching the brakes. Within 2 days all of my monitors had set. Some cars can take a long time to run the test for the O2's, some clear pretty quick. Most states have an extension you can fill out online if you get close to your due date and they are not still set. Just keep driving it and add in some freeway cruising to the normal stop and go city driving. Eventually they should set.
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BullittBoy
Well-Known Member
Hard to say. Some cars will set pretty quick. My Bullitt set in 2 days with just driving to work after I had disconnected the battery for a maint job I was doing. My C5 took over a week with 3-4 of the drive cycles on the freeway I talked about. I could never find a complete explanation of what the drive cycle required, so I just did my own freeway, slow to 20mph with no brakes on long exits, back on the freeway cruising at 60mph for 5-10 miles and then stop and go city driving for 20 minutes and they finally set. It was frustrating.
If there is an issue with the O2 sensor, that could impact them running the test or providing input back to the ECU. Many guys run into this issue you are experiencing, taking a while to complete.
Before you replace anything, you can test the O2's with a scanner and look at the live data and see if they are operating correctly and you can also do some checks with a meter to see if they are reading correct values by back probing the plugs. It is a pain in the butt to do the back probing and such, but if you have a good active scanner (or can borrow one), it is pretty easy to look at the live data to see if the O2's are working correctly. Many video's on youtube that show you how to do both live data scans and meter probing of the sensors.
In the mean time, go request an extension so you are not stressing over it and drive it for another week or so. If it hasn't set by a week, then do some trouble shooting with a live scanner. It would suck to buy new O2's only to have the same issue. I bought a nice Autel a few years back and man has that thing been worth it. Great for doing all kinds of maint like ABS pump cycles/bleeds, looking at live data. Way more than just pulling codes. And you don't have to spend a crap load on a decent active scanner. I spent 275 bucks for my Autel on sale via Amazon.
Metz302
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #23
If my O2 sensors were bad, would they have thrown a code?
I’ll have to see about getting an extension, I’m not really sure how that works. I’m off the next few days so I’m going to take it really early at like 4 am and just drive around the city and what not.
BullittBoy
Well-Known Member
If they are tripping a code parameter, YES. If you are not showing any codes, that doesn't necessarily mean there couldn't be an issue. Once other thing that can cause a problem is an exhaust leak. Have you gotten under the car and verified no exhaust leaks? No burnt or frayed wires to the sensors etc.?
I always try to rule out things like wiring or exhaust leaks so I can focus on other more realistic possible causes. Google the possible O2 code listing and you can see what are the parameters the ECU can look for to throw a code. I "think" they are in the P0130-0160ish code range, but it has been a while since I had to deal with it on the Bullitt. My MACH 1 is coming up in Dec for my states 2 year check but I already hooked up the scanner when i bought it a month ago and it is good to go.
I always try to rule out things like wiring or exhaust leaks so I can focus on other more realistic possible causes. Google the possible O2 code listing and you can see what are the parameters the ECU can look for to throw a code. I "think" they are in the P0130-0160ish code range, but it has been a while since I had to deal with it on the Bullitt. My MACH 1 is coming up in Dec for my states 2 year check but I already hooked up the scanner when i bought it a month ago and it is good to go.
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