NGauge and Pypes LT's

[Slamdcoop0428]

Just ordered a Lund tuned NGauge and Pypes LT's no cats for my 2016 auto from beefcake yesterday. I'm excited to do this install. I'm very good at installing LT's on 11-14 cars. I can do them in under 4hrs by dropping the k member. I've been told on these 2015+ cars there is more room and dropping the k member isn't needed but I plan to do it anyways and drop the k member. Any tips are welcome and what tools are needed. Thanks again terry!

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[Reds197]

I always put the stock bolts back in the same holes. It saves a ton of BS time because all the difficult locations can be hand threaded.

If you use the Pypes hardware run the bolts in and out a few times while the headers are off and put them back in the same location. This will save 2 hours of BS.

 

[Slamdcoop0428]

I always put the stock bolts back in the same holes. It saves a ton of BS time because all the difficult locations can be hand threaded.

If you use the Pypes hardware run the bolts in and out a few times while the headers are off and put them back in the same location. This will save 2 hours of BS.

Are you saying if I decide to use the stock studs in some locations?

 

[Reds197]

Both. Whatever bolts you use chase the bolt in the same location a few times to make sure the threads are a perfect match.

I did reuse my stock hardware.

 

[Slamdcoop0428]

Both. Whatever bolts you use chase the bolt in the same location a few times to make sure the threads are a perfect match.

I did reuse my stock hardware.

Cool, I'd rather use the factory studs and and nuts. Did you have to remove the studs to get the header in?

 

[Reds197]

Cool, I'd rather use the factory studs and and nuts. Did you have to remove the studs to get the header in?

On the passenger side I had most bolts out to get it in. The drivers side was fine. Same headers you have.

Also remove the A/C line bolt and clip on the passenger side. It will touch the headers. It is a PITA after the headers are in.

 

[beefcake]

your very welcome!!!

 

[Slamdcoop0428]

On the passenger side I had most bolts out to get it in. The drivers side was fine. Same headers you have.

Also remove the A/C line bolt and clip on the passenger side. It will touch the headers. It is a PITA after the headers are in.

Ok thanks for the tips. I appreciate it. Once I get under there, I'll decide if I want to drop the k member.

 

[Slamdcoop0428]

your very welcome!!!

Thanks again! Think those headers are going out today?

 

[Slamdcoop0428]

Drivers side header is on, kept all the studs and nuts like said above. Didn't drop the k member as I didn't realize the k member and radiator support are now all one piece. Took me about 4hrs to get the drivers side done. Not looking forward to the passenger side lol.

 

[MyLilPony]

Drivers side header is on, kept all the studs and nuts like said above. Didn't drop the k member as I didn't realize the k member and radiator support are now all one piece. Took me about 4hrs to get the drivers side done. Not looking forward to the passenger side lol.

Passenger side sucks, have fun!

 

[Slamdcoop0428]

Passenger side sucks, have fun!

Haha it looks like it will be fun. Beefcake told me the pypes are a little easier to install then others but we shall see.

 

[sandeale]

The passenger side will really try your patience, i uust installed these on saturday....have a flex head ratcheting 15, drop the starter, remove the motor mount, and jack the engine up as high as you can (watch clearance between the firewall and the imrc solenoids)

A cv style wobble for your socket wrench will come in handy, the real pita bolt is the one behind the ac compressor, but if you come from the bottom and stick the open end of your wrench towards the front of the car, between the ac lines, you can actuate the wrench pretty good

 

[Slamdcoop0428]

The passenger side will really try your patience, i uust installed these on saturday....have a flex head ratcheting 15, drop the starter, remove the motor mount, and jack the engine up as high as you can (watch clearance between the firewall and the imrc solenoids)

A cv style wobble for your socket wrench will come in handy, the real pita bolt is the one behind the ac compressor, but if you come from the bottom and stick the open end of your wrench towards the front of the car, between the ac lines, you can actuate the wrench pretty good

Yeah I'm about to go start the passenger side in about 30 min lol I went out and picked up a 15mm flex head ratchet wrench. I removed the battery box and panel so that opened up a bunch of room from the top. But doesn't help at all with the stock header. But will make putting the long tube on much easier.

 

[rainier446]

The one bolt on top all the way forward by the a/c compressor is a mother f&*^%$#! Disconnect battery, take the starter out and pull the motor mounts. Of course since you're saying you're dropping the k-member you'll have more room but I don't think the k-member is in the way, the body is. Dropping the motor would help though, I took out both motor mounts, one at a time, to do each side. I used locking header bolts which suck to install but it's a nice guarantee to have, just left one stud in on each one to help line up the gasket/header to the head.

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