NEW SYNC 3.0 Build 20204 Nav Android Auto/Apple Carplay

[tom_sprecher]

Is there a short write-up anywhere on what is needed (hardware & software) to update SYNC 3 that is not 103 pages long? I appreciate the first page link updates, but it would be great if there was additional paragraph or two that explains for example if you have non-nav and want AA do this or if you have nav and want CarPlay to that, if you update to this hardware you lose this USB functionality, but you can overcome that if you do this, etc.

<<< has nav and an iPhone and wants to upgrade.

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[MaskedRacerX]

I think I'm going to order the 2-port module, notch the bottom, grab a accessory charger (for the accessory port in the armrest console), and run a USB A (m) to Mini USB (f) extension through the notch to power the front USB port. That will provide 2 hidden ports for data and charging and one exposed port that's exclusively for charging

 

[MaskedRacerX]

Is there a short write-up anywhere on what is needed (hardware & software) to update SYNC 3 that is not 103 pages long? I appreciate the first page link updates, but it would be great if there was additional paragraph or two that explains for example if you have non-nav and want AA do this or if you have nav and want CarPlay to that, if you update to this hardware you lose this USB functionality, but you can overcome that if you do this, etc.

<<< has nav and an iPhone and wants to upgrade.

Hi Tom,

If you have factory nav, download the proper update file, I got mine from the Google Drive link, the file is:

SYNC3 NAV V1 TO V22.zip

It's a ZIP archive, unzip it and you'll see a README.txt and a second ZIP file named:

UPGRADE FILE.ZIP

Unzip that and the result will be a file named: autoinstall.lst and a folder named: SyncMyRide

Copy those two items to the root directory of a USB thumb drive (the same you'd use for music), it needs to be FAT32 formatted (if you need help with that, let me know your OS)

With the car off, insert that USB stick into either port (I used the one under the center stack). Start the car - in the header of the Sync 3 display you'll see a messaging indicating "UPDATING ..." (forgot the exact text, but it's obvious)

Let it complete, that's about 15 minutes, the message will clear, and there will be a resulting success dialog. Shut the car for 5 minutes, restart it, you should have the new Sync 3 software.

It's common for the Nav system to not come back up, showing just an "updating Maps" for X time, just drive for a few, shut down, mine came back after my second power cycle.

You're done with the software update portion!

 

[tom_sprecher]

Hi Tom,

If you have factory nav, download the proper update file, I got mine from the Google Drive link, the file is:

SYNC3 NAV V1 TO V22.zip

It's a ZIP archive, unzip it and you'll see a README.txt and a second ZIP file named:

UPGRADE FILE.ZIP

Unzip that and the result will be a file named: autoinstall.lst and a folder named: SyncMyRide

Copy those two items to the root directory of a USB thumb drive (the same you'd use for music), it needs to be FAT32 formatted (if you need help with that, let me know your OS)

With the car off, insert that USB stick into either port (I used the one under the center stack). Start the car - in the header of the Sync 3 display you'll see a messaging indicating "UPDATING ..." (forgot the exact text, but it's obvious)

Let it complete, that's about 15 minutes, the message will clear, and there will be a resulting success dialog. Shut the car for 5 minutes, restart it, you should have the new Sync 3 software.

It's common for the Nav system to not come back up, showing just an "updating Maps" for X time, just drive for a few, shut down, mine came back after my second power cycle.

You're done with the software update portion!

Thanks! Do I need any hardware or lose any hardware functionality?

 

[MaskedRacerX]

Thanks! Do I need any hardware or lose any hardware functionality?

Part 2:

You'll need a replacement USB hub, it's the module in the armrest console (that contains a single USB port) - see my previous post in this thread for photos. That simply pops out and it has 3 connectors to remove, 1 power, 2 ports (internally the two ports connectors have what you'll recognize as mini USB connectors).

There are two options:

1) Use a replacement that provides two USB ports in the center console and you lose the front USB port

GJ7Z-19A387-B

or

HC3Z-19A387-B


(H is the later model, same functionality, but I believe the H has blue bezels that match the OEM part - it just wasn't readily available)

2) Use a replacement that provides a single port in the console, and has the 2nd internal connector where you plug your front USB port (of the two ports you'll disconnect from the hub, it's the gray one). This basically returns the car to the exact OEM functionality.

HU5Z-19A387-A

That's it, snap it in, if you've completed the software update, you'll see the CP option, etc.

 

[TexasRebel]

You can put the USB drive into the port at any time. The vehicle can already be running.

 

[MaskedRacerX]

You can put the USB drive into the port at any time. The vehicle can already be running.

Ahh, I wasn't sure if it was a specific startup process or whenever it just accessed the drive (I believe one of the earlier posts said specifically off-insert-start), but whatever, either way works.

 

[TexasRebel]

Ahh, I wasn't sure if it was a specific startup process or whenever it just accessed the drive (I believe one of the earlier posts said specifically off-insert-start), but whatever, either way works.

Knowing what I do about micro-controllers and computer systems, I don't like to overload things during startup. I figured if the off-insert-start was necessary nothing would happen on a start-wait-insert so I tried it.

The screen displays "device detected" then notifies that the upgrade is processing.

this is pretty useful as you can start, back out of a garage/driveway and navigate surface streets. Then insert the USB drive at a red light or stop sign before getting onto the highway. (I think automatics may have to be in park to begin the upgrade. With a stick it doesn't matter)

 

[MaskedRacerX]

Yeah, I have a decent background in the same, specifically on the software side (embedded/control systems), but enough exposure to the hardware to be reasonably conversant (I was recently engaged in a big, but undisclosable AR project in the computer vision team )

The power consumption on a USB drive has to be _very_ low so I can't imagine any legit concern[?]. I actually had an external drive in the center console for music (SSD based) I didn't mean to imply that any USB based source needed to be inserted first (like music), just the update - but thanks for the clarification.

 

[PIsenhour]

Updated mine today with no issues, but I have a dumb question. I was under the understanding that you didn't need a cable for Android Auto. The only way AA works for me is to plug the USB cable into my phone. Then it works fine. I have a Samsung S5 running Marshmellow, not sure if that plays into it or not.

 

[MaskedRacerX]

Updated mine today with no issues, but I have a dumb question. I was under the understanding that you didn't need a cable for Android Auto. The only way AA works for me is to plug the USB cable into my phone. Then it works fine. I have a Samsung S5 running Marshmellow, not sure if that plays into it or not.

The AA/CP implementations are cable only, in fact, I think there's only been one car recently that supports wireless AA/CP and it's a MY17 BMW of some sort.

 

[TexasRebel]

My thesis was about computer vision in cotton harvesting. Cool stuff! Trying to program how objects are recognized is quite involved. Most people forget that their eyes are 2d sensors using stereopsis to create a 3d perception.

Start getting into hyperspace and you realize it would take 2 or more 3d images (each of which could be represented by two 2d images) and the processing power necessary to just analyze one scene becomes incredible.

 

[nortoncommando]

Part 2:

You'll need a replacement USB hub, it's the module in the armrest console (that contains a single USB port) - see my previous post in this thread for photos. That simply pops out and it has 3 connectors to remove, 1 power, 2 ports (internally the two ports connectors have what you'll recognize as mini USB connectors).

There are two options:

1) Use a replacement that provides two USB ports in the center console and you lose the front USB port

GJ7Z-19A387-B

or

HC3Z-19A387-B


(H is the later model, same functionality, but I believe the H has blue bezels that match the OEM part - it just wasn't readily available)

2) Use a replacement that provides a single port in the console, and has the 2nd internal connector where you plug your front USB port (of the two ports you'll disconnect from the hub, it's the gray one). This basically returns the car to the exact OEM functionality.

HU5Z-19A387-A

That's it, snap it in, if you've completed the software update, you'll see the CP option, etc.

Has anyone confirmed that HU5Z19A387A actually works and fits? I just got an email from AutoNation saying that the dual port that I ordered is on back order. If HU5Z19A387A works, I would prefer to have the single USB port in the console and keep the functioning one on the dash.

 

[TexasRebel]

I should have confirmation (affirmative or negative) later today.

...if USPS comes through

 

[HizliBullet]

Does it actually work???

its all over ebay! different colors, different styles, this is just one.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Black-White-...hash=item2cb4ca4f7d:m:mgYu2d13Vw-TWpIV6rYofEw

anyone else having trouble with their backup camera?

5F is really cold, no issues here.. its 30f here

Thanks! I will mess around with different cables and make sure that it is set to charge and toggle those settings a bit. I'm using an Anker powerline USB. Those are supposed to be the best, but maybe I got one with a short in it.

-Jeff

Is there a short write-up anywhere on what is needed (hardware & software) to update SYNC 3 that is not 103 pages long? I appreciate the first page link updates, but it would be great if there was additional paragraph or two that explains for example if you have non-nav and want AA do this or if you have nav and want CarPlay to that, if you update to this hardware you lose this USB functionality, but you can overcome that if you do this, etc.

<<< has nav and an iPhone and wants to upgrade.

yup few of us made tutorials about how to upgrade

[ame]
[ame]
[ame]

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