New member with problems?

[tsunami]

I had a new Dodge Charger that had a very loud 'clunk' sound when driving over a frost heave or speed bump. It was into the dealer for 4 out of the first 6 weeks I owned it.
The last time I went in to pick it up...I was told that the noise was fixed. As I drove out of the dealer's shop, "CLUNK"!. The noise echoed from the adjacent buildings. I drove back in and handed the keys back to the service manager...he threw the keys (literally) back at me yelling "drive this piece of s**t out of here. we refuse to touch it again".
I called Chrysler Detroit and was told I had to have all warranty service done at the dealership I bought it from! (Yes, I agree...how many state and Federal Laws were they negating?). They wouldn't pay for any more warranty service for this problem...period.
I drove it to a dealership an hour's drive away at the recommendation of a friend. It took that dealership 15 minutes to find and fix the problem (a missing 'clip' on one brake).
So...if your dealership service is 'incompetent'...take it to another dealership, even if it is inconvenient. Probably will save you many hours of wasted time and nerves.

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[Patrick S]

We know that Chevys have never had recalls and every car they make is absolutely 100% perfect. we are just a bunch of misguided sheep and can't see the light of the almighty bowtie.

i almost drove a chevy once. it wouldn't start.

The Ice issue i am seeing here is interesting, as i experienced the same thing.. the noise was concerning me until i noticed on my hood, that the water that was deposited there by earlier rain was staying in place. it froze into globs of ice all over the car. This is why airplanes don't fly well with ice on the wings.

what you hear is the aerodynamics of the car being interrupted by the ice and the air is buffeting against the body of the car. disastrous on airplane wings, small annoyance on a car. it does show, however, how well the body was designed with aerodynamics in mind.

 

[Trackaholic]

Hey OP, sorry you are having problems. I listened to your video and heard that "clink" sound. Definitely down not seem normal to me. Sounds like the dealership tried to help, but was unable. That's pretty typical for these types of noise problems. It can be very difficult to determine where the sound is coming from and what needs to be fixed. Instead of getting angry, I would suggest going to another dealer. They might have better luck diagnosing the problem.

Also, you may want to make a new video in daylight, showing what you are doing to make the noise occur. I couldn't really see anything in the one you posted, but the sound was pretty clear.

Good luck, and keep us informed.

-T

 

[Hack]

I'll never understand extreme brand loyalty.

I guess the word extreme can always be interpreted differently by different people, but I'm a brand name guy.

I find brands I like and I tend to stick with them. That's how I am. My dad was a Chivy guy, but I always liked Ford. I think it's because I didn't see many around when I was growing up.

I usually have trouble passing up an opportunity to give a Chivy guy a little grief. It's a character flaw; I know.

To the OP: good luck getting it fixed. Maybe trade it in on a Camaro. I've driven a few and they are pretty nice. I recommend the dual mode exhaust and the 1LE option. I was planning to order one but driving the 2015 GT changed my mind. If I weren't a Ford guy I would probably have stuck with the original plan.

 

[CLstang50]

It might be the muffler tail pipe where the flex piece is not in place and the flex piece of the tail pipe is hitting or rubbing from not being aligned properly.

 

[FordService]

Yep, going from Park to reverse or drive causes that noise... Seems that the driveshaft is under load, but the shaft was just replaced.

Contacted Ford and they will be calling me Monday. I have to contact another Ford dealer and schedule an appointment. Disappointed that the dealer I gave $40k to has treated me so poorly. Will see what happens with this car.

I did have 900 problem free miles before this...LOL

I'm here to help get you back to problem-free miles, hauntedone; I replied to your PM. Do you have a case number? If so, please send me a PM with that as well.

Contact (PM) FordService on the forum here. They will ensure you get all the help you need to get your issue addressed.
...

I appreciate the suggestion, Todd15Fastback!

I had issues with my brand new mustang, too. The catalytic converter was replaced and they fixed a small dent that I missed when taking it off the lot. They were extra courteous and went out of their way to get everything fixed ASAP. I contacted Ford Service through the forum here first, though. Rachel contacted the dealer for me and told them we meant business! heh :ford:

I'm glad I was able to help, Bay1Stang!

I think I have the same noise you describe. When I shift from park to reverse I hear a metallic clink-type of sound underneath. I wasn't going to complain about it though. I think its the drive shaft joints doing their thing when it shifts.... I could be wrong tho.

Let me know if you decide to go to the dealer, 15Pony. I'll need your name, contact info, VIN, current mileage, and servicing dealer.

Rachel

 

[Degen]

My brakes on my GT will squeak LOUD when breaking at very low speeds or a sharp turn like when I'm parking. Took to a Ford here in Vegas they said they never heard it squeak and nothing is wrong with it. Got it back and they are still squeaking. Going to have a chat with service department again.

 

[IndustryLeech]

My brakes on my GT will squeak LOUD when breaking at very low speeds or a sharp turn like when I'm parking. Took to a Ford here in Vegas they said they never heard it squeak and nothing is wrong with it. Got it back and they are still squeaking. Going to have a chat with service department again.

Always take the tech on a ride-along with you so you can replicate the issue.

 

[Pokergeneg]

My tradein on my GT Premium CO Auto 401A 50 yr pk 3.55 NAV was a 1996
Red Mustang V-6 Auto which was my DD for 18 yrs with no problems at all;
Got new tires (1), batteries (4), worn-out hoses a few times, oil changes, and
that's it. My 96 was perfect when I drove it off the dealer's lot 09/01/96 with
20 miles on it and was still perfect when I trading it in on 12/10/14. I have
had my 15 for a month now and the car is perfect. I may date a Plain Jane
but I will never drive one.

 

[Scott in Houston]

People keep stating the prices of their cars… let me say, that's irrelevant.
I'm a car freak… and have spent way too much on cars over the years. I've had 4 sedans north of $100K, and a few Porsches in that range as well. Not saying this to boast or whatever, but just to establish a bit of credibility.

Of the 4 sedans, I sold one (a BMW) early because of many electric gremlins and transmission issues. I couldn't lemon because they never repeated… I replaced with a MB E63 that MB had to buy back from me. It was a true lemon, and leaked fuel just below my daughter's child seat! (They were lucky not to see a law suit) That's 50% of stupid expensive sedans with serious issues. My 3rd BMW (M5) was bullet proof until I hit 80K miles, then i had to replace the transmission 3x within 2 months.

I've also had a mid-range Audi Sedan and an Acura RL. Both were bullet proof. NO issues.

Price is not a factor. It's all about manufacturing randomness then how your dealer handles. Both factors are more individual to the specific car and its dealer more so than to the larger brand (MB, BMW, Ford, Chevy).

This was my long way of saying painting with that broad brush is ridiculous. Enjoy your car, and if it looks impossible, take the appropriate actions which likely include finding a reputable dealer and/or using the resources here. It can be resolved.

 

[Asharus]

People keep stating the prices of their cars… let me say, that's irrelevant.
I'm a car freak… and have spent way too much on cars over the years. I've had 4 sedans north of $100K, and a few Porsches in that range as well. Not saying this to boast or whatever, but just to establish a bit of credibility.

Of the 4 sedans, I sold one (a BMW) early because of many electric gremlins and transmission issues. I couldn't lemon because they never repeated… I replaced with a MB E63 that MB had to buy back from me. It was a true lemon, and leaked fuel just below my daughter's child seat! (They were lucky not to see a law suit) That's 50% of stupid expensive sedans with serious issues. My 3rd BMW (M5) was bullet proof until I hit 80K miles, then i had to replace the transmission 3x within 2 months.

I've also had a mid-range Audi Sedan and an Acura RL. Both were bullet proof. NO issues.

Price is not a factor. It's all about manufacturing randomness then how your dealer handles. Both factors are more individual to the specific car and its dealer more so than to the larger brand (MB, BMW, Ford, Chevy).

This was my long way of saying painting with that broad brush is ridiculous. Enjoy your car, and if it looks impossible, take the appropriate actions which likely include finding a reputable dealer and/or using the resources here. It can be resolved.

i've always thought it was common sense that problems can happen across the board no matter what the manufacturer.

perhaps your stories will make it abundantly clear to those that are bias.

 

[Scott in Houston]

i've always thought it was common sense that problems can happen across the board no matter what the manufacturer.

perhaps your stories will make it abundantly clear to those that are bias.

It may be, but I kept reading "for a $40K car"… as if anything less should be worse and anything more would be better.
Then of course, there's the the underlying thread of it being a "POS Ford" from the OP. Seems trollish, but he's likely just frustrated and venting.

 

[hauntedone]

UPDATE: Had to take the Mustang to a third dealer who found the issue.Seems the rear output shaft flange was loose and needed to be replaced. Good news is this fixed the problem. Bad news is the problem is BACK now after 2k miles.... Again no racing or abuse, while getting 17 mpg in the car...

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