New GT350 Paint Chipping on Hood Edge

[nc.pnw]

Hello. I have a 2019 Magnetic GT350 and just noticed that the paint on the front edge/corner of the hood has chipped on both sides in the same spot. I know these cars have paint problems but I was wondering if this specifically is a common issue? Any suggestions on what I should do? Thanks.

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[Questortapes74]

You may need a repaint. Get some adhesive tape like painters tape and firmly cover the chipped area. Remove the tape and examine the adhesive side. If paint was pulled then most likely the paint will continue to chip as time progresses. Your warranty should cover the repaint. Hope this helps...

 

[Cobra Jet]

The Mustang (and other Ford product) hood paint prob has existed since 2005...

The Ford Paint and Corrosion Warranty is 5/60 with starting in 2016, peroration of the aluminum is not a prerequisite in order to initiate or approve warranty work.

However, with that said and looking at the images of your hood, do be aware that Ford May deny your claim based on how that damage looks.

Meaning, Ford may view those images and deny based on their assumption that the damage is or was caused by road debris impact, resulting in “chipping” of the paint.

I’m just letting you know what to expect - not saying you will be denied or will be approved for Warranty work, just giving you the heads up.

In this thread I had attached the latest Ford Paint Warrantable vs Non-Warrantable pdf regarding paint concerns:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...table-vs-non-warrantable.121829/#post-2541196

 

[lenFeb]

welcome to the club. the paint job on gt350 is very poorly done. I have/had many cars prior to gt350 and never experienced so bad paint on any of my cars(this is my first ford car ever). I surprised you have only one chip though. I have PPF on entire front-end, a-pillars, edge of the roof and part of the rear quarters. Still car have rock chips thrown ether from front wheels or other cars. I noticed that OEM Cup2 tires thrown rocks towards rear quarters more than MPSS perhaps due to Cup2's has more soft, sticky rubber compound. My advice is to get PPF on your car ASAP. That being said, I forgot all that when I drive this f****n car.

 

[nc.pnw]

welcome to the club. the paint job on gt350 is very poorly done. I have/had many cars prior to gt350 and never experienced so bad paint on any of my cars(this is my first ford car ever). I surprised you have only one chip though. I have PPF on entire front-end, a-pillars, edge of the roof and part of the rear quarters. Still car have rock chips thrown ether from front wheels or other cars. I noticed that OEM Cup2 tires thrown rocks towards rear quarters more than MPSS perhaps due to Cup2's has more soft, sticky rubber compound. My advice is to get PPF on your car ASAP. That being said, I forgot all that when I drive this f****n car.

Thanks! The car is brand new so there are virtually no rock chips on it. The plan is to ppf it, but I am wanting to fix this before film goes over it.

 

[nc.pnw]

The Mustang (and other Ford product) hood paint prob has existed since 2005...

The Ford Paint and Corrosion Warranty is 5/60 with starting in 2016, peroration of the aluminum is not a prerequisite in order to initiate or approve warranty work.

However, with that said and looking at the images of your hood, do be aware that Ford May deny your claim based on how that damage looks.

Meaning, Ford may view those images and deny based on their assumption that the damage is or was caused by road debris impact, resulting in “chipping” of the paint.

I’m just letting you know what to expect - not saying you will be denied or will be approved for Warranty work, just giving you the heads up.

In this thread I had attached the latest Ford Paint Warrantable vs Non-Warrantable pdf regarding paint concerns:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...table-vs-non-warrantable.121829/#post-2541196

Thanks for the info! There are zero rock chips on the front of the car so that chance that this was caused by a rock in the same spot on both the driver and passenger side is very unlikely. Thanks for the heads up though!

 

[11GT50]

If you elect for a repaint then be very careful where your dealer sends the car for paint. I took my first GT350 in for a warranty paint repair on the passenger door and I got it back with the paint entire right rear quarter of the car completely trashed. Heavy scratches in the base coat and clear coat, debris between the base and clear, large runs and bubbles in the clear, hard paint lines inside the door, poor paint match on the exterior panels.

That car got bought back with less than 1000 miles on it.

 

[Tonymustang302]

I had them on the edge of my door.....i bought ford touch up paint and you literally cannot see it again.

 

[johnny1]

If you elect for a repaint then be very careful where your dealer sends the car for paint. I took my first GT350 in for a warranty paint repair on the passenger door and I got it back with the paint entire right rear quarter of the car completely trashed. Heavy scratches in the base coat and clear coat, debris between the base and clear, large runs and bubbles in the clear, hard paint lines inside the door, poor paint match on the exterior panels.

That car got bought back with less than 1000 miles on it.

Totally agree on this. My 16 I had I found a bad spot on the rear fascia after getting it home off the showroom floor. Took it back and they said they would have there body shop here in small town fix it. All that saved me is I know the owner of the body shop. He looked at it and said he needed to repaint the rear fascia and put new stripes on it to make it right and be able to warranty it verses just spot painting it. I was very reluctant knowing it would never match (car blue with black stripes) I finally gave in and he had it some time but when I got it back it was absolutely perfect. No matter what angle you looked at it or in direct sun etc. you could not tell that rear fascia had ever been off the car and repainted.

 

[460Fred]

If you can just touch up then PPF, that may be your best bet.
If done right, you’ll never see it. Repainting the entire hood may not give you the results you are looking for unless you have it done at a quality shop. Heck, the horror stories I keep hearing about the factory paint, you might improve it.
The paint thickness differences will be detected if you ever sell the car to someone who knows what to look for.

 

[CoolHandLuke]

You may need a repaint. Get some adhesive tape like painters tape and firmly cover the chipped area. Remove the tape and examine the adhesive side. If paint was pulled then most likely the paint will continue to chip as time progresses. Your warranty should cover the repaint. Hope this helps...

Having spent twenty years in the collision business, that's the worst idea imaginable. If the chip spreads, it will likely lead to a complete repaint on the top surface of the hood- especially aggravating if you have stripes. Don't do anything to it except take it to a high end body shop and show it to their painter. I had the exact same chip which is caused by a factory paint run at the corner of the hood that gets knocked off after it dries, leaving the infamous chip. If the painter is careful like mine was, they can sand (feather) that front edge of the hood down very carefully and flip tape to avoid having to apply any base coat and/or clearcoat on the top surface of the hood. It's tedious but it can be done, trust me. Mine turned out great.

Good luck!

 

[Questortapes74]

Having spent twenty years in the collision business, that's the worst idea imaginable. If the chip spreads, it will likely lead to a complete repaint on the top surface of the hood- especially aggravating if you have stripes. Don't do anything to it except take it to a high end body shop and show it to their painter. I had the exact same chip which is caused by a factory paint run at the corner of the hood that gets knocked off after it dries, leaving the infamous chip. If the painter is careful like mine was, they can sand (feather) that front edge of the hood down very carefully and flip tape to avoid having to apply any base coat and/or clearcoat on the top surface of the hood. It's tedious but it can be done, trust me. Mine turned out great.

Good luck!

I don’t disagree with what you are saying. A body shop technician looked at a car of mine years ago and showed me this tip. He said that oftentimes a factory production automobile can be released with underlying adhesive or peeling problems that can arise due to the primer, moisture or condensation, application temperature, poor quality control of sanding/cleaning etc. The point is that if a little bit of paint around the area in question is coming off then other areas are going to develop as time passes. The owner has to weigh whether they want to touch up or go with repainting. Just my 2 cents.

 

[johnny1]

When I had my new 2005 GTO they take 5 months to get here from Australia. Thats a long time at sea. They put that white protective film on the hood. A lot of them no matter what color when got to dealership and white film pulled off hood had what looked like dried water condensation spots under the clearcoat in the paint. GM was repainting the hoods to fix. Then they figured out that a heat gun could be used instead to make them disappear with no painting necessary. There was even a tsb for the dealerships for exactly how to use the heat gun and for how long to get rid of them. Obviously it was caused from that white protective film slapped on the the freshly painted hood that hadn't cured yet causing condensation underneath causing the paint under the clearcoat to have these dried water spots being covered for such a long time (some I'd seen were big as a half dollar in different shapes). My car didn't have any.

 

[CoolHandLuke]

Like I said, the issue isn’t due to poor adhesion. It’s a paint run from the factory that’s become a “chip”. Hopefully the OP hasn’t taken your advice and opened up a can of worms that could have been avoided with a skilled painter...

If the OP doesn’t “pick” at the area and cause more paint damage or wash the vehicle and snag his wash mitt on the edge of the hood, he’ll likely be ok.

Also, the repair I’m speaking of doesn’t involve “touching up” the area. It involves blowing color (basecoat) and clearcoat on just the front edge of the hood after sanding to restore it back to new.

 

[nc.pnw]

Like I said, the issue isn’t due to poor adhesion. It’s a paint run from the factory that’s become a “chip”. Hopefully the OP hasn’t taken your advice and opened up a can of worms that could have been avoided with a skilled painter...

If the OP doesn’t “pick” at the area and cause more paint damage or wash the vehicle and snag his wash mitt on the edge of the hood, he’ll likely be ok.

Also, the repair I’m speaking of doesn’t involve “touching up” the area. It involves blowing color (basecoat) and clearcoat on just the front edge of the hood after sanding to restore it back to new.

Fortunately I did not take his advice and never was. I knew it would chip out more lol. The plan right now is to just use some touch up and get it ppf'd.

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