Need input from 'mature' drivers ('19 GT Premium, MT86, AE, B&O, 401A, black pckg)

[Elp_jc]

For the MT-82, if you want a more firm shift feeling I would skip all the fancy aftermarket shifters and just install a shifter bushing.

Hey, thanks a lot for that tip; sounds like a winner. BUT you removed the entire middle (flat) section, meaning you only inserted the side 'rods'? Just checking, to make sure exactly what you did. It shows backordered, but bookmarked that page for future reference. I like not having any extra NVH at all . Thanks.

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[illtal]

I wouldn't mind getting a 19 if I was looking for one I would get at least 5k off in addition to any other incentives. I don't jump at a "deal" that ain't even less than would taxes would be. I start at 1.5 times whatever the taxes would be.

 

[Elp_jc]

Thanks. But my specific question was not how much off, but how much LESS you could justify buying a 2019 over a 2020. Am I making sense now? As a specific example, the cheapest 2019 I'd buy (only 8 miles, and stored indoors) would cost me around $42,500 delivered (no TTL, for comparison purposes). How much more than that would it make sense to get a 2020 instead? THAT was my question. Sorry if it wasn't clear. In other words, if the 2020 only cost $1K more, of course anybody would jump on it, since the 2019 certainly depreciated more than $1K over a 2020.

But probably the better example is to start from a 2020 instead. I offered $48K for one that is yet to arrive at a local dealer. Doubt they'd accept, but I'm also not sure it'd be a good deal with 2019s in the low $40Ks. THAT is what I'm trying to determine at which point I'd be better off with a 2020. I think it's clear that 2019 I referenced above would be a better deal at around $42,500 delivered, over $48K for a 2020, right? That's a $5,500 difference. Would you get a 2019 for only $4K less than a 2020? Or how much? That's the figure I'm trying to figure out. Thx.

 

[illtal]

If you're talking apples to apples cars, straight deals no incentives outright sale, obviously you will have more depreciation on the 2020.

The depreciation is certainly more than 5k. However this is a matter of the heart vs money in the pocket. If the cars are identical but it's only 5k difference I would try to get then to move down more. The goal would be under 40k for me. I got mine with a similar deal ~46k sticker, 39 otd paid taxes cash.

You also could probably consider the benefits of a lower insurance premium on the "older" car as well but I digress.

I would open the search net up a bit wider, and find the cheapest new 2019 with the features you want and use it as leverage. I believe you could get one for under 40k unless your going pp2 and every bell and whistle. I haven't read all of the posts in this thread either.

For me I knew I would add parts and go boost so I didn't get a pp car, but I have a premium with 401a, nav, shaker system 20 inch wheel option. I bout in March of 2018. Got it with a few incentives basically 6.5k off.

You wouldn't consider a 19 until 5k off, I would say you certainly could find one with more than that off. I'd say in my opinion to look at about 7k off of what you'd pay for a 2020 year model. That would be fair.

 

[IamCDNJosh]

Hey, thanks a lot for that tip; sounds like a winner. BUT you removed the entire middle (flat) section, meaning you only inserted the side 'rods'? Just checking, to make sure exactly what you did. It shows backordered, but bookmarked that page for future reference. I like not having any extra NVH at all . Thanks.

So I modified it to look like the bushing in the link below that has the center section removed. I was having 3rd gear lockout issues driving more "spirited", after the install I haven't had an issue since. Also with that section removed I was able to easily press it in by hand with minimal effort.

Modified Bushing

Also I believe I got mine from Amazon: Link

 

[Elp_jc]

Hey, thanks for that link. That 'modified' bushing looks perfect, and no need to cut anything. Do you have to remove the tranny craddle for that one too? And zero additional NVH with that, or still a little bit? Thanks again.

Oh, and that site also has a 30-lb clutch springs. What's the rating of the OEM one? If you don't know, that's okay.

 

[MaskedRacerX]

4. For the sound tube there are delete kits out there, the bolt that holds the sound tube is a PITA to remove (required multiple extensions as well as the ability to contort my arms.

For the sound tube, just yank it out Seriously, I've done it one two cars, I remove the connection to the air tube, then remove that half, pull the other half (ending at the firewall) under the strut bar (if present), then just pull up - really hard, it snaps right off.

Then for the plug, I put it in my hand, with the insertion end facing away from my palm, and stand facing the front, so backwards so to speak, it's much easier because of the direction your arm bends, done it twice, works great. You're doing it blind, but it's easy to feel where it goes.

I realize you've already done it, just kind of posting as a general FYI for anyone who hasn't.

Love that photo BTW.

 

[\dave]

My wife is typically good for 6 to 7 hours in a car. We took a trip from Richmond, Va to Indy and back in my '19 Eco convertible. We did one day there and one day back (9+ hours each way). She didn't whine a bit, but we had the top down almost the whole way listing to 70's music. It has cloth seats which I prefer in a vert because vinyl/leather will fry your thighs when you hop in on a sunny day. I think the car is plenty comfortable on a trip. For reference, we also have a '19 Lincoln and '09 Lariat (2WD), both of which I find fine for road trips.

If you are worried about comfort, generous tire sidewall can be important from both harshness and noise aspects. We have 18" wheels on the Eco, and the handling is very good as well as ride comfort and noise (even though the tires are the P Zero Nero - 50 profile). Conversely, the Lincoln has 20" wheels which transmit a lot of road noise with their 40 profile Eagle tires, but they grip and handle well (dual turbo in sport mode...). The ride is still good, I think largely due to the Magneride, but I would have preferred 19" and conceded on the 20" due to selection availability. If your eye asks for large wheels, be aware that you are affecting other aspects which might be more important when you're behind the wheel.

Dual zone works fine.

I test drove a manual GT and found that it lacked clutch engagement feel. I don't consider that to be a show stopping problem because over time you'll develop muscle memory for engagement relative to pedal travel/position.

 

[mnm4ever]

I’m pretty late to the party here and admittedly didn’t read all the comments. 9 pages! Damn there’s a lot to unpack here. Just so you know where I’m coming from, I turned 50 this year so I qualify as “mature” for sure. And from reading your original post I think I can honestly tell you... your not gonna like the Mustang. If a loaded Cayman was not comfortable for road trips then the nicest plushiest Mustang is not gonna be good enough either. I’m sure I’ll get flamed here because everyone on this board loves their mustangs, and I love mine too. But I love it because I don’t care about comfort and I want a car that I can take to the track and not worry too much about breaking it. I wanted a muscle car and a sports car. Not a cruiser. And I had a limited budget. The fact is a Mustang GT is a $25k car with $10-15k worth of performance stuff stuffed into it. Now the GT350 they put a little extra engineering magic into to make it extra special. But even then it’s not a BMW it’s a still geared to ultimate performance. You will have fun in it for a little while and then your wife won’t like it for trips and it will sit in your garage. The cherry on top is when you go to sell it or trade it and see how much the resale value takes a hit. That’s when you will regret spending 40-45k on a new one.

Go test drive one. Test drive several. Rent one for a week or two from Hertz they have GTs. Then go test drive some German cars that will meet your needs much better. Compare them back to back. Only you can judge which one you like better.

 

[IamCDNJosh]

Hey, thanks for that link. That 'modified' bushing looks perfect, and no need to cut anything. Do you have to remove the tranny craddle for that one too? And zero additional NVH with that, or still a little bit? Thanks again.

Oh, and that site also has a 30-lb clutch springs. What's the rating of the OEM one? If you don't know, that's okay.

No idea on the clutch spring and quite honestly this is one of those mods I don't quite understand. I've got a stock clutch & spring and haven't had any issues. Some people like to replace it, again it really comes down to personal preference.

For the bushing, I did not notice any additional NVH nor did my wife (she would let me know....)

As for the cradle (I'm assuming this is the bottom part with 8 bolts), yes it did have to come out but I was able to install it with the rubber bushing in place.

For the sound tube, just yank it out Seriously, I've done it one two cars, I remove the connection to the air tube, then remove that half, pull the other half (ending at the firewall) under the strut bar (if present), then just pull up - really hard, it snaps right off.

Then for the plug, I put it in my hand, with the insertion end facing away from my palm, and stand facing the front, so backwards so to speak, it's much easier because of the direction your arm bends, done it twice, works great. You're doing it blind, but it's easy to feel where it goes.

I realize you've already done it, just kind of posting as a general FYI for anyone who hasn't.

Love that photo BTW.

Wished I'd known that before I carefully removed the nut (which is a nylon locking nut so it can't be spun by hand).

Thanks, I get a lot of complements on my driveway presentation......

 

[Elp_jc]

And from reading your original post I think I can honestly tell you... your not gonna like the Mustang.

I did . Just like the Mustang, a Cayman can be specified from mild to wild. Mine had all performance options, and also all luxury options not conflicting with performance ones. And it was a mistake. It felt like a race car, compared to the Bullitt I drove. Newer Caymans (982s) have adjustable shocks now, and are quieter due to turbos now, but 981s were not travel cars at all, especially with 20" wheels with 2 fingers of tire, like mine had. The Bullitt was surprisingly quiet, even though it doesn't have double-pane windows, like my F-150. It was better than expected in every respect, so there's no doubt my wife will tolerate it just fine. No need to rent one after that test-drive, fortunately, because it'd make no sense if it didn't have all the options the Bullitt does, especially MagneRide. Just that option alone is like driving 2 different cars. Same with Caymans.

 

[mnm4ever]

I did . Just like the Mustang, a Cayman can be specified from mild to wild. Mine had all performance options, and also all luxury options not conflicting with performance ones. And it was a mistake. It felt like a race car, compared to the Bullitt I drove. Newer Caymans (982s) have adjustable shocks now, and are quieter due to turbos now, but 981s were not travel cars at all, especially with 20" wheels with 2 fingers of tire, like mine had. The Bullitt was surprisingly quiet, even though it doesn't have double-pane windows, like my F-150. It was better than expected in every respect, so there's no doubt my wife will tolerate it just fine. No need to rent one after that test-drive, fortunately, because it'd make no sense if it didn't have all the options the Bullitt does, especially MagneRide. Just that option alone is like driving 2 different cars. Same with Caymans.

Yea I read some of the comments I missed where you mentioned driving the loaded Bullitt and loving it. I am glad you enjoyed it!!

I have found over the years that other peoples opinions are great but in the end essentially meaningless. What matters is what you want and what you like. Also, with cars everything is so subjective. From all the things you wrote in the first post, it really sounded like you were after a luxury car with some power... kinda like a Lincoln version of a Mustang (MK-GT??), or an AMG Mercedes. I find even the most luxuriously equipped Mustangs to be relatively crude cars, but thats OK for me... I like the performance more than anything. None of our cars are particularly "comfortable"... Wrangler, Mustang, or MR2. But then you tried one and loved it... perfect. And the Bullitt is especially nice, may even give you some insulation from that resale value thing if you end up changing your mind. Sounds like you change cars quite a lot!

Anyway, good luck on the search for a Bullitt and welcome to the family. FYI, the dealer I use for service has at least two Bullitts in stock, Veterans Ford in Tampa, one black and one green.

 

[Jmtoast]

All I can tell you is that if you have or get coil overs with a very stiff suspension, semi-slicks, and and after market exhuast with a resonator delete like mine this isn't the car for long trips if you are older (i'm 51). Ideally you want active exhaust, and magneride.... And drive an A10 with modes (play with track and drag mode) just to see how it compares to a manual in fun value.

I highly recommend the Heated\Cooled seats long with the adaptive cruise control also for long trips. I love both.

 

[Elp_jc]

I started with a different build at the beginning, but not knowing the car, it became apparent that PP1+MR was the better option in both comfort and performance, so a win-win . After that, it also became obvious it's almost impossible to find a GT with all options, and if you do, it's more expensive than a better equipped Bullitt, so I bit the 'bullitt', and changed again to that. Ha ha. Oh, and in this case, opinions here were far from 'meaningless'. On the contrary; thanks to them, I felt like I already knew the car. It felt just like it was described. So thanks again to everybody for all the great help .

Finally, was on the phone today almost all day, trying to make a deal. All collapsed except one, but it probably will too. I'll keep you posted, but I'm a bit frustrated now. Chemo is not helping, but hope to feel better in a few days and give it another try, and see what happens. Might have to try 2020s, since dealers need the $1,500 financing rebate, and $5K is the miminum, and my trade is basically worth the same as the Bullitt, so hit a dead end there. Don't think will buy a 2020 (much less rebates, plus $1,250 more expensive). I'll keep you posted. Take care.

 

[moosestang]

+1 to everything Paul_19_GT says. I'm 68 and have the identical setup as a daily driver. We migrate from FL to PA every summer for a few months. The trunk and back seat are packed to the hilt and still a very comfortable 2-3 day ride. Only regret is I should have gotten the active exhaust.

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