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MT82 3rd and 4th Gear Failure

NGOT8R

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What clutch are you considering? The shifter shouldn’t be any additional cost, because it will be removed for tranny casing disassembly anyways. The same applies to the slave cylinder. The clutch assembly and rear seal are billable items.

If you are considering a 1 piece aluminum driveshaft, that should also be a free install since the factory driveshaft has to be removed to get the tranny out. It’s the perfect opportunity to upgrade for free.
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Crimson18PP

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I don't know about the clutch. Is there are reason to upgrade from stock? I don't have plans to install power adders.
 

NGOT8R

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I don't know about the clutch. Is there are reason to upgrade from stock? I don't have plans to install power adders.
I don’t know how much a factory clutch costs, but I suggest comparing pricing to some good aftermarket options. If the price is close, I recommend aftermarket because if you ever change your mind and decide to install a power adder, you’ll already be set.

FYI, the factory clutch looked cheap compared to my aftermarket clutch. To be fair though, it did hold up to a lot of abuse before I had to change it. With that being said, a factory clutch may be the way to go for you.
 

Craig Brown

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Are you going to install the clutch yourself? For a stock set up and having a shop do the job it could be $1500.00 to $2500.00 if the flywheel can be resurfaced that will save some money. I did my own clutch job, and the Mcleod RXT twin disc ceramic with an aluminum flywheel was $1300.00 dollars another $66.00 for a new pilot bearing and 8 new flywheel bolts from Ford. Another $170.00 for the TOB (slave cylinder) and stainless steel braided hydraulic line. I have a two-post lift, so I also bought a two-stage 1600 lb capacity hydraulic transmission jack $183.00. So, for the top of the line clutch I was at a total cost of $1653.66. Oh, when the jack came it had 2" steel wheels and I bought a set of locking 4" 2200 lb. neoprene wheels and that was $32.00 so the real cost was $1685.66. If a shop is doing the job and you don't plan on modding your car the stock clutch should be just fine. I already have some bolt on power and wanted to be sure my clutch was going to handle the power. I put in a new transmission and didn't want to keep the stock clutch even though it only had 35K on it. It is still a good clutch and flywheel. My new clutch doesn't feel any heavier in the peddle than the stock clutch. It is rated for 1000 Hp. If you go with the stock clutch, you won't have to do the clutch relearn. Good luck.
 

SHOdaddy68

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Not surprised the dealer only wants to replace the tranny. Most dealers don't do any re-builds anymore and I have a hard time trusting them with anything these days. I had issues with my MT82 while still under the factory warranty and 3 separate Ford dealers told me it was fine and the issues I was experiencing were "completely normal".

I also had an extended warranty. After the factory warranty expired, I took the car to a reputable local transmission shop and they found all kinds of issues when they opened it up, including chewed up gears and synchros. (I assume the damage was caused by the previous owner). The shop was able to order some of the upgraded parts from Calimer and replaced the damaged synchros and chunked gears. I also had them install new bearings and an MGW shifter. Warranty paid for most of it and I have the piece-of-mind that it was done right by an experienced tans tech. 87k on it now and still working great.
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