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D.Brown

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Thank you all for the responses. I drove the car without incident a total of 104 miles yesterday. The clutch does feel buttery smooth, which is what I found so weird about it. The real test will be when I get past 500 miles and can really lay into it. I'll keep everyone updated. I'll be covering another 200 miles today.
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Just take the roads with the most stop and go. It sucks those first few days, but well worth it in the end when it's properly broken in.
 
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Small update. After driving the car to my buddies house for him to feel the new clutch (which he said felt normal to him) I got a flashing CEL and the car started to hesitate. I brought it to the dealership and the service rep cleared the code and told me it was a soft code and I was good to go. I then went an hour with no issues until it started happening again. This time I got a flashing code that turned into a solid CEL and I dropped the car off at the dealership and will be showing up at 9am and telling them to fix the car. I don't know what they did, but it said cylinder misfire on 6 and 8. I would recommend that if anyone if ever in the area DO NOT bring your car to Valenti ford in Mystic, CT. This has already turned into a nightmare.
 

cop on my back

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Small update. After driving the car to my buddies house for him to feel the new clutch (which he said felt normal to him) I got a flashing CEL and the car started to hesitate. I brought it to the dealership and the service rep cleared the code and told me it was a soft code and I was good to go. I then went an hour with no issues until it started happening again. This time I got a flashing code that turned into a solid CEL and I dropped the car off at the dealership and will be showing up at 9am and telling them to fix the car. I don't know what they did, but it said cylinder misfire on 6 and 8. I would recommend that if anyone if ever in the area DO NOT bring your car to Valenti ford in Mystic, CT. This has already turned into a nightmare.
Same thing happened to me. You have to do a crank relearn. I did it with my SCT4 tuner. I know it makes no sense but when you replace the clutch it happens. I did an aluminum flywheel as well. The crank trigger sensor is behind the flywheel and I guess if you move the crank with the battery disconnected for more than an hour ( which will happen when doing a clutch ) the computer forgets where the crank is somehow and has fits.

I didn't know this but a quick google search and a call to American Muscle educated me. Surprised Ford didn't know this though. It really is a very simple thing to cure, took me about 30 seconds with my hand held tuner.
 

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You mean the dealership installed a clutch without doing a crank relearn....no!!!!

Not surprised!!
 

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Small update. After driving the car to my buddies house for him to feel the new clutch (which he said felt normal to him) I got a flashing CEL and the car started to hesitate. I brought it to the dealership and the service rep cleared the code and told me it was a soft code and I was good to go. I then went an hour with no issues until it started happening again. This time I got a flashing code that turned into a solid CEL and I dropped the car off at the dealership and will be showing up at 9am and telling them to fix the car. I don't know what they did, but it said cylinder misfire on 6 and 8. I would recommend that if anyone if ever in the area DO NOT bring your car to Valenti ford in Mystic, CT. This has already turned into a nightmare.

^^^Why I asked up above if you replaced the flywheel also.
 
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D.Brown

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^^^Why I asked up above if you replaced the flywheel also.
I didn't think you were talking to me, as I stated in the original post that I installed a flywheel.
 
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They finally performed the Crank Relearn after I sat there for three hours. Car seems to be fine now. Clutch engages super high, no idea how to adjust it, and now I think I want to get rid of the Mustang. I think I've finally gotten tired of modifying my vehicles.
 

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Well if you get rid of the stang for that reason your gonna miss out on alot of fun. I gotta say the source of your issues were caused when you made the decision to let the dealership work on your car! Those of us who have had modded mustangs know that if your not doing the work yourself you take it to a reputable shop that mods these cars day and night! They are the ones that know what they are doing! Anyway good luck in your new 4 door sedan or suv!
 
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Well if you get rid of the stang for that reason your gonna miss out on alot of fun. I gotta say the source of your issues were caused when you made the decision to let the dealership work on your car! Those of us who have had modded mustangs know that if your not doing the work yourself you take it to a reputable shop that mods these cars day and night! They are the ones that know what they are doing! Anyway good luck in your new 4 door sedan or suv!
Thanks.
 

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They finally performed the Crank Relearn after I sat there for three hours. Car seems to be fine now. Clutch engages super high, no idea how to adjust it, and now I think I want to get rid of the Mustang. I think I've finally gotten tired of modifying my vehicles.
Having it high is not a bad thing per se. Beats the snot out of too low. Just have to learn without thinking where it is, and all will be good. Muscle memory takes over, and you will not give it another thought. Not really an adjustable thing, it is what it is.

I hear ya on modded cars. I had a 95 Impala SS that I dropped the auto out of, put a T56 in, and modded that bitch from one end to another. I put in a custom clutch setup (biggest mistake, should have gone fbody stuff) and was wrenching on it every other weekend. Being as it was my daily driver, it got old. Sold it, and someone else drove it another100K miles, so I guess I maybe should have kept it. But I get the modifying vehicles part. I do so in much smaller increments now.
 
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Having it high is not a bad thing per se. Beats the snot out of too low. Just have to learn without thinking where it is, and all will be good. Muscle memory takes over, and you will not give it another thought. Not really an adjustable thing, it is what it is.

I hear ya on modded cars. I had a 95 Impala SS that I dropped the auto out of, put a T56 in, and modded that bitch from one end to another. I put in a custom clutch setup (biggest mistake, should have gone fbody stuff) and was wrenching on it every other weekend. Being as it was my daily driver, it got old. Sold it, and someone else drove it another100K miles, so I guess I maybe should have kept it. But I get the modifying vehicles part. I do so in much smaller increments now.
I'm more so worried about the clutch engagement after it wears. It can't get any higher, so what's going to happen to the pedal feel?
 

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They finally performed the Crank Relearn after I sat there for three hours. Car seems to be fine now. Clutch engages super high, no idea how to adjust it, and now I think I want to get rid of the Mustang. I think I've finally gotten tired of modifying my vehicles.
You can call a local performance shop and ask them if they can adjust the clutch more to your liking. There is also aftermarket clutch peddle springs. Maybe that will change the clutch peddle feel ?

I think the organic compound clutches (RST) are supposed to have a break-in period / procedure, but I don't know what that is.

Was the cross threaded bolt repairable?
 

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It will likely stay the same. On mechanical clutches it would be a problem, but on hydraulic ones, they are always self adjusting.
 

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You can call a local performance shop and ask them if they can adjust the clutch more to your liking. There is also aftermarket clutch peddle springs. Maybe that will change the clutch peddle feel ?

I think the organic compound clutches (RST) are supposed to have a break-in period / procedure, but I don't know what that is.

Was the cross threaded bolt repairable?
No adjusting it, unless you get an adjustable master cylinder, (no idea if one is made for the 550). Even then, what you dial out is the total throw, meaning less on the bottom which may present a problem in getting a total release.
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