Magneride R vs non-R, where do the settings live? Controller? Swappable?

[drummerboy]

Work with alignments - change tire compound/sizes and tap those brakes to settle

Roger that. As far as the alignment goes, the tires said -2.4 camber (maxed out) in the front wasn't quite enough, and I also noticed afterwards a mistake in the rear toe that wasn't helping: the shop was aiming for .30 degrees toe in on both sides, and I ended up with .71 total rear toe in. Ugh.

I've addressed those two things and also went to square 315 GT350R sport cup 2's. These things are way stickier than the non-R sport cup 2's. Also have adjustable sway bars now so I can stiffen up that rear if I still need more room to play. The stiffer BMR springs should be right at the R stiffness up front, slightly stiffer out back. New camber plates and rear camber arms and toe links to make alignment easier should round things out.

I know it's a lot of change all at once, but she was so soooo tight before. I'm hoping I'm in the right ballpark now for the sway bars and alignment to allow me to put it where I want.

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[drummerboy]

you dont have to use the R tune, the DSC will let you calibrate the dampers.

The only question is if there is enough adjustability to get the result youre looking for.

It would be nice to be able to firm them up a bit more, but I was just hoping it would be a simple swap so I'll leave it alone for now and see how she does.

 

[stanglife]

Half the fun is sorting the car out for that little extra

 

[ShatterPoints]

The R has different front springs, is lighter, has wider front wheels, stickier tires, and has a bigger rear bar. The baseline valving will be different between the two cars. If you were to swap the R calibration into a non R with everything OE it would be too stiff. It is hard to tell if it is worth even trying, without knowing the kerb weight of your car, the spring rates, and what tires you are running.

 

[JAJ]

Roger that. As far as the alignment goes, the tires said -2.4 camber (maxed out) in the front wasn't quite enough, and I also noticed afterwards a mistake in the rear toe that wasn't helping: the shop was aiming for .30 degrees toe in on both sides, and I ended up with .71 total rear toe in. Ugh.

I've addressed those two things and also went to square 315 GT350R sport cup 2's. These things are way stickier than the non-R sport cup 2's. Also have adjustable sway bars now so I can stiffen up that rear if I still need more room to play. The stiffer BMR springs should be right at the R stiffness up front, slightly stiffer out back. New camber plates and rear camber arms and toe links to make alignment easier should round things out.

I know it's a lot of change all at once, but she was so soooo tight before. I'm hoping I'm in the right ballpark now for the sway bars and alignment to allow me to put it where I want.

Ok, so I'm the guy who's done a lot of what's discussed in this thread. From my experience in messing with the MagneRide suspension gear, I'd expect that your spring and bar changes will work well. Perfect? No. But pretty good.

There is one major misconception about the R vs non-R VDM calibration and that's the expectation that the R cal is stiffer. It's not. The R dampers and struts are inherently stiffer than the non-R's, so the R VDM calibration isn't particularly stiff - the extra stiffness is built into the R dampers. As with the regular GT350 VDM, the R VDM works best with R dampers and struts and R springs and bars. It's a package and it's been tuned to work together as a package.

The DSC Sport controller solves a different set of problems - it's more sport oriented, and the track handling is great when you spend the time to get it working the way you want it. Be prepared to do some tuning - every spring and bar change will benefit from a matching adjustment in the controller.

 

[drummerboy]

done a lot of what's discussed in this thread

Thanks JAJ, very helpful. The R dampers and DSC will be gravy on top to perhaps look forward to some time in the future.

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