Lowering mustang, need input

[gq0203]

Hey everyone, I've been looking into lowering my 21 ecoboost HPP and have done a fair bit of research. I'm shooting for a decent stance that can be dailyd and a little more of a performance feel from my suspension. I could just drop the springs in and call it a day but I want this done right. This is the list I've compiled so far:

Steeda Billet Rear Shock Mount 12mm
Steeda S550 Mustang Pro Action Adjustable Shocks & Struts EcoBoost
Steeda S550 Mustang Bumpsteer Kit
Steeda Mustang Front Adjustable Camber Bolts
Eibach Pro Kit Lowering Springs 35147.140
An alignment

I'm on 19x9+45 wheels with 255/40 tires since that may be relevant info

I've also heard this helps make the rear end feel tighter and since I'll already be down there I'm considering adding on the Steeda S550 Mustang Subframe Alignment and Support Kit.

What I'm asking you all is have I left out anything that would help correct the suspension geometry and could lead to any other issues? Also would love to hear your guys two cents in general. This is my first time lowering a car so I'm all ears if you have other recommendations.

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[Dave2013M3]

I think everything you listed is a good setup. However, why the adjustable shocks? Unless you are tracking at different tracks not necessary. For reference I have the Ford Performance Track kit.

 

[gq0203]

I think everything you listed is a good setup. However, why the adjustable shocks? Unless you are tracking at different tracks not necessary. For reference I have the Ford Performance Track kit.

I would like to get into autocross but really the adjustable shocks boils down to me wanting to be able to dial in my suspension as much as I possibly can

 

[PC_GUARD]

I would like to get into autocross but really the adjustable shocks boils down to me wanting to be able to dial in my suspension as much as I possibly can

Skip the camber bolts, theyre junk. If you NEED the adjustment, get Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates. The bolts slip, they just do

 

[Dave2013M3]

I would like to get into autocross but really the adjustable shocks boils down to me wanting to be able to dial in my suspension as much as I possibly can

The issue is that most people don't know what they are doing when it comes to adjustment. Not saying that is you.

 

[Orange5Fitty]

I have the Steeda Ultralight Linear Extreme Springs and they are great. All my experience with Eibach has been trash. Their springs are always crashy and bouncy. I had SR Performance springs on my car before the Steeda and they were bouncy. I think linear springs suit this chassis better for street driving. I don't daily mine, but I would have no problem if I did.

 

[Orange5Fitty]

Skip the camber bolts, theyre junk. If you NEED the adjustment, get Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates. The bolts slip, they just do

I have had camber bolts on dozens of cars and never had one move. Have them on my S550 and they work fine.

 

[Dave2013M3]

I have the Steeda Ultralight Linear Extreme Springs and they are great. All my experience with Eibach has been trash. Their springs are always crashy and bouncy. I had SR Performance springs on my car before the Steeda and they were bouncy. I think linear springs suit this chassis better for street driving. I don't daily mine, but I would have no problem if I did.

The Eibach ProKit is a linear spring set. The car bouncing is usually a lack of rebound control ( shocks).

 

[NightmareMoon]

Prefer the steeda camber plates. If you get into autox, they'll let you dial enough camber to save significant tire wear, and they'll pay for themselves quickly.

Prefer the J&M upper shock mounts. They're lower profile, offer a 2nd perch height option, and seem more durable than the Steeda parts. The 2nd perch height is perfect for lowed cars and helps keep you off the bump stop. Really ideal. I can also fit a 12" wide rear wheel with the steel J&M mounts and I cannot with the thick aluminum steedas. Plus I had a steeda upper shock mount go bad and clunk on me. Also its easier to tighten the top bolts with the J&Ms, you need some kind of strange tool or just guesswork to tighten down the Steeda ones.. there's not enough room for a regular socket IMHO.

The adjustable shocks are a good idea if you want to get into a little bit of autox or track driving.

As far as springs go, there's a sweet spot around 3/4" drop. Below that and you have lost too much travel for the suspension to work effectively, so performance declines a bit. Mind your spring rate to drop ratio. The lower you go the stiffer you need to be in order to keep the car from bouncing off the bump stops. Low and soft is a *bad* combination.

 

[Orange5Fitty]

The Eibach ProKit is a linear spring set. The car bouncing is usually a lack of rebound control ( shocks).

Eibach Website says progressive rate. As far as I know all of their kits are progressive. Had their whole handling kit on my 2015 WRX and it rode horribly. As for bouncy it's a combo of shocks and proper springs. Over sprung and under rebounded.

 

[PC_GUARD]

I have had camber bolts on dozens of cars and never had one move. Have them on my S550 and they work fine.

Youre in the minority.

 

[gone_n_60]

If the Ecoboot IRS is the same as the GT's then that Steeda Subframe kit would be good add for reducing looseness in the IRS.

btw love the Orange pics!

 

[Dave2013M3]

Eibach Website says progressive rate. As far as I know all of their kits are progressive. Had their whole handling kit on my 2015 WRX and it rode horribly. As for bouncy it's a combo of shocks and proper springs. Over sprung and under rebounded.

Eibach Website says progressive rate. As far as I know all of their kits are progressive. Had their whole handling kit on my 2015 WRX and it rode horribly. As for bouncy it's a combo of shocks and proper springs. Over sprung and under rebounded.

I have run Eibach Pro Kit on several cars and we're never bouncy. As far as being progressive, I had a brain fart it's my Ford Performance Y springs that aren't progressive. A lot of people got great results with the Pro Kit, I almost went with a Pro Kit but went with the whole Ford Performance Track kit.

 

[Biggsy]

Don’t have much to add other than Vorshlag has a nice set of shock mounts. I got them at their intro price in 2019 for $200. Would I pay for them what they cost now? Not sure but they have been solid.

a shop installed camber bolts without my knowledge. How did I find out? I felt the steering wheel pull to the left and then a scraping sound when turning the wheel. Now I have a nice silver ring on my Apex wheels and marks on my front strut. Been lazy to get them recoated. I know every body has different experiences but that has been mine with camber bolts.

 

[21SinisterS550]

Hey everyone, wanted to see if I can get some advice if anyone has done this but I currently have my 21 mustang GT lowered about 1 inch all around on eibach pro kit. When I installed them I also installed eibach camber bolts with 1.75 degrees of adjustment. I had it aligned and all were within factory specs but not perfect. my tires still wear on the inside so I bought some BMR camber bolts with 2.5 degrees of adjustment to replace them. I didn’t have the time to install them myself so I had a local shop do them. After I picked up the car I realized that instead of replacing the eibach bolts with the BMR ones they said the only way they could get it perfect was to put the BMR ones in the bottom and keep the eibachs in the top so now I have camber bolts on top and bottom in the front instead of just the top like normal. The alignment is now perfect but my question is, is that safe ? I don’t track the car it’s just a daily driver but I’ve never seen that done. I called BMR and they said shouldn’t be an issue if I’m not tracking the car. I know I could do camber plates but didn’t want to tear it all out again and redo it if the camber bolts work. Just wanted to get some other opinions. Thanks !

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