Limp Mode

[PizzyP]

So i was driving through Laguna Beach just a bit ago, and my car all of a sudden goes into "Limp Mode". Was stop and go traffic, not overheating, hadn't been driving hard at all. Everything seems normal.

Get home to find my OBD read, and i can't find it. Will search again tomorrow *its not in the port* and hope I can find it to scan and find out what's wrong.

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[Usmc341]

So i was driving through Laguna Beach just a bit ago, and my car all of a sudden goes into "Limp Mode". Was stop and go traffic, not overheating, hadn't been driving hard at all. Everything seems normal.

Get home to find my OBD read, and i can't find it. Will search again tomorrow *its not in the port* and hope I can find it to scan and find out what's wrong.

Did shutting off the car and restarting cure it? I'm thinking there's a stored code in there somewhere.

 

[PizzyP]

Did shutting off the car and restarting cure it? I'm thinking there's a stored code in there somewhere.

I immediately turned it off and then back on, that did not restore it. Drove him home and turned off, have not turned it back on since. Will do so shortly to find out.

 

[Elp_jc]

Besides pulling codes with a scanner or FORScan, I want to warn Mustang owners of one instance that doesn't trigger any codes, and gets the car into limp mode... although it's probably not the case on a new car, but I already replaced those parts on my new Bullitt. I'm talking about the brake switch pad (a yellowish one) which pushes the brake light switch plunger. It falls off on older cars (about 5 years old), lighting the brake lights all the time, and making the ECU think you're pushing both the brakes and accelerator, and putting the car into limp mode. Just for the heck of it, check that pad, and your brake switch, which could also be the culprit. Good luck.

By the way, I replaced all 3 such pads on my car already, with Toyota (black) ones. One of them is not used, since my car doesn't have a cruise switch anymore at the top of the clutch pedal travel... but replaced it anyway, as a spare. The other one is at the clutch end-of-pedal travel, which is the one depressed to be able to start the engine. Hope this helps.

 

[PizzyP]

Found OBD, went out and scanned, code came back as P061B. When I started the car for first time since yesterday, the wrench was gone.

 

[Elp_jc]

It's not a specific code, unfortunately; just that the engine can't do what the gas pedal is asking, so typically the electronic gas pedal, throttle body (TB), but it could also be the MAF. With the many TB issues, that's my guess. You can't trust the car like that, so hopefully there's a way you can test the TB so you can get it replaced. Or whatever else it is. Don't erase the code, so you can demand action from a dealer. Good luck.

 

[PizzyP]

It's not a specific code, unfortunately; just that the engine can't do what the gas pedal is asking, so typically the electronic gas pedal, throttle body (TB), but it could also be the MAF. With the many TB issues, that's my guess. You can't trust the car like that, so hopefully there's a way you can test the TB so you can get it replaced. Or whatever else it is. Don't erase the code, so you can demand action from a dealer. Good luck.

didnt delete it, have appointment at dealership tomorrow to take it in.

 

[Shlumbug]

My car went through limp mode a handful of times while I’d be cruising in neutral, and then try to put it back in gear. Turns out it had a bad flywheel. The clutch and flywheel we’re both replaced under warranty.

 

[PizzyP]

So I went in today. This is whats on the work order....

"customer states that the vehicle went into limp mode and wrench light came on, check and advise.
No DTCS in the system, PCM or any other module. Historical DTC P061B implies aftermarket modifications present. no problem found roadtest, ran good, reinstalled asbiuilt data in case of aftermarket programmer"

i have not done a single performance modification to the car at all. this is why people dont go to dealerships for work. such BS.

 

[Biggus Dickus]

Historical DTC P061B implies aftermarket modifications present. no problem found roadtest, ran good, reinstalled asbiuilt data in case of aftermarket programmer"

W....T....F?

And I bet this asshole had fun taking you car on a test drive - dick.

 

[Elp_jc]

Maybe he was referring to FORScan changes, since he reprogrammed at least one module with 'as-built' data... but you can't change the throttle mapping, or anything related to the ECU, so that's BS indeed. At any rate, does it say on your order which module(s) he re-programmed? I'd like to know. If that fixed your issue, you (or any of us) could do it with FORScan next time.

 

[PizzyP]

W....T....F?

And I bet this asshole had fun taking you car on a test drive - dick.

i saw him leave and come back, wasnt gone but one lap around the ring, and i couldnt hear it so wasnt much of a joy ride at all

 

[PizzyP]

Maybe he was referring to FORScan changes, since he reprogrammed at least one module with 'as-built' data... but you can't change the throttle mapping, or anything related to the ECU, so that's BS indeed. At any rate, does it say on your order which module(s) he re-programmed? I'd like to know. If that fixed your issue, you (or any of us) could do it with FORScan next time.

what i put above is all that it said, so dont know what module he reset. the "changes" i made (removing the door chime and seat belt chime) are still there (meaning still dont chime).

the only thing i see that changed was the sync 3 settings, i like it on night, it had gone back to default.

 

[zack.whitford]

Did this occur again for you?

It randomly happened to me for the first time today. I was just cruising in traffic on my commute route when the wrench appeared and the car started driving like a dog. I had the 'Check Manual' message as well as an active exhaust error.

Limp mode sucks and is alarming. At low revs the car was super quiet and neutered and at about 3.5k it would lurch forward and the exhaust would get louder. Turning off the engine briefly several times didn't fix it but after the car sat off for about 5 minutes it went away. Unfortunately I don't have a code reader and my dealership said they would "get back to me."

I just had spacers put on yesterday so I imagine the Magneride may have gotten a little freaked out. That said, all my modifications have been done by my dealership's sister performance garage so hopefully that will work in my favor if they try to say it's my fault.

 

[Elp_jc]

Get a $15 cable, and use FORScan to read any codes. Plus you can make several changes that will enhance your ownership, like deleting chimes, changing Sync colors, etc. Good luck.

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