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Kenne bell boost a pump

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Chicken hawk

Chicken hawk

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It’s been done but it harder on the pump
Yeah I’ve seen majority of people run it full time. It’s a weekend warrior car so doesn’t see to much road time which can hopefully save on pump life and balance it out :fingerscrossed:
 

NGOT8R

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JMS’s BAP does not run continuously. It runs at 50% throttle and above. Just another option. I have on on my car and so far, no issues to report. I’ve seen a few for sale on here in the past for really good prices too.
 

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Cory S

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My stock fuel pump died after 16K miles with an 18V BAP wired continuous. The DW400 is rated up to 18V, so it may better a solid long term solution. The JMS Booster is even better for limiting voltage until you need it.....
 

Andrew@Lethal

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My stock fuel pump died after 16K miles with an 18V BAP wired continuous. The DW400 is rated up to 18V, so it may better a solid long term solution. The JMS Booster is even better for limiting voltage until you need it.....
I have the DW400 as well and was thinking I should run a bap with it just for more juice. But I’m not sure I need this if the 400 runs at 18v.
 
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Cory S

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I have the DW400 as well and was thinking I should run a bap with it just for more juice. But I’m not sure I need this if the 400 runs at 18v.
It’s runs at system voltage. It will handle 18V from the addition of a BAP.
 

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illtal

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I have my JMS running 18V continuous, I'd say run it that way so that you don't have any issues with needing to ramp up when you need it.

PD SC with a manual you can get into boost without 50% throttle, if your 1 gear up
 

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My tuner didn't want me to run the Hobbs switch on my GT500. He said he hated having to deal with the delay.
 

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My tuner didn't want me to run the Hobbs switch on my GT500. He said he hated having to deal with the delay.
Then either the switch is set too high or the system is way under capable, even for a booster.

The pressure regulator should be providing static pressure and sending excess back. It doesn't care if it sends back a ton or a little. If you're having trouble maintaining pressure under 3 or 4 psi, then the fuel system is woefully under supplied. The additional boost (or a second stage pump) should come in before it's actually needed for supply. A lot of tuners don't like the switch because it's a failure point. If it craps out, it's a sure lien condition.

If you're that over-burdening the pumps, then yeah, the best solution is to just boost it constantly, but the whole point of having variable boosters is to reduce the wear/tear and stress on pumps. By spinning them 50%+ harder all the time, you're reducing pump life, adding unnecessary heat into the system and sending a bunch of return fuel to and from (and also reducing the life of the filters). All that's fine for a trailer queen or drag mainly car, but for a daily driver, it's asking for pump crap out sooner than later.
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