Issue with BMR lower control arm bearing kit bk055

[Jeepwx03]

If you go back to older threads you will see this problem crops up from time to time. The issue is with the insert bushing being too long and butting together. Some were too long.

When you torque the bolts, rather than clamping the bearing, the bushing get clamped so the bearing is sliding rather than than rolling. Torquing more just butts the two ends tighter together.

This is a bigger problem with this big bearing as it is very stiff when new and you need the ball clamped hard while it breaks in an loosens up. Spaying oil or grease in there provides temporary relief of the noise.

You will have to remove the control arm and file down the ends of the bushings until there is about a .010 or more gap.

I find this alot with BMR lately. I bought the camber links and had to make new Inner bushings, as the ones supplied were too short.

If you tightened them in place they would clamp on the delrin and not the inner sleeve. The arm would have pivoted on the clamped delrin instead of the delrin pivoting on the bushing.

Thank you for such a quick reply. I saw this a bit before ordering and thought because the threads were so old and if I ordered from BRM directly I stood a good chance of getting an updated version, apparently, I assumed incorrectly.

I greased the spacers before installing them, but apparently, that did not help. I did not grease the ball section as I just read that in the post, but it sounds like it is very temporary.

With the amount of effort, this install took it makes me with I went with the Steeda option.

I think I will try back the bolt off and try the visual install when the mounting ears just barely touch, at least until I can take the RLCA back out and adjust the size of the spacers unless BMR replies here and can send me an updated version.

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[Robottrainer]

Thank you for such a quick reply. I saw this a bit before ordering and thought because the threads were so old and if I ordered from BRM directly I stood a good chance of getting an updated version, apparently, I assumed incorrectly.

I greased the spacers before installing them, but apparently, that did not help. I did not grease the ball section as I just read that in the post, but it sounds like it is very temporary.

With the amount of effort, this install took it makes me with I went with the Steeda option.

I think I will try back the bolt off and try the visual install when the mounting ears just barely touch, at least until I can take the RLCA back out and adjust the size of the spacers unless BMR replies here and can send me an updated version.

These bearings are super when everything fits correctly. Unfortunately you have to check everything even when new.

Do not lub the ball as it sit in a Teflon impregnated mesh. As the ball moves and heats up the Teflon transfers to the ball. If you use any type of grease it could disturb this process or worse, deteriorate the Teflon.

I actually bought a bolt and nut and assembled it loose on my bench and then clamped it to my 20 ton press and twisted the ball around to loosen it up and confirm the bushings were clamping the ball at a lower torque then when installed.

I also bought a set if the smaller BMR bearings as I was leary about using the 055s after Kelly at Kelltrac said he uses the smaller ones and after reading all the problems with the clicking.

Also, you will hear more bump noise since it's now a solid bearing. If you install the cradle lock outs it's even more noticeable. Trade offs for better performance. These aren't Lincolns

 

[Robottrainer]

These bearings are super when everything fits correctly. Unfortunately you have to check everything even when new.

Do not lub the ball as it sit in a Teflon impregnated mesh. As the ball moves and heats up the Teflon transfers to the ball. If you use any type of grease it could disturb this process or worse, deteriorate the Teflon.

I actually bought a bolt and nut and assembled it loose on my bench and then clamped it to my 20 ton press and twisted the ball around to loosen it up and confirm the bushings were clamping the ball at a lower torque then when installed.

I also bought a set if the smaller BMR bearings as I was leary about using the 055s after Kelly at Kelltrac said he uses the smaller ones and after reading all the problems with the clicking.

Also, you will hear more bump noise since it's now a solid bearing. If you install the cradle lock outs it's even more noticeable. Trade offs for better performance. These aren't Lincolns

I did end up using the 055s

 

[Jeepwx03]

I did end up using the 055s

Did you end up turning down the spacers the .01"?

 

[jmeiers]

Thank you for such a quick reply. I saw this a bit before ordering and thought because the threads were so old and if I ordered from BRM directly I stood a good chance of getting an updated version, apparently, I assumed incorrectly.

I greased the spacers before installing them, but apparently, that did not help. I did not grease the ball section as I just read that in the post, but it sounds like it is very temporary.

With the amount of effort, this install took it makes me with I went with the Steeda option.

I think I will try back the bolt off and try the visual install when the mounting ears just barely touch, at least until I can take the RLCA back out and adjust the size of the spacers unless BMR replies here and can send me an updated version.

The back off method works perfectly and does get rid of the clicking and/or bouncing. The bolt is not going anywhere, even at the lowered torque setting. What I also did (not mentioned previously) when I lowered the torque of the bolt, I put a nut on the back side of the bolt that extends out the front of the control arm frame ears. This will mechanically prevent the bolt from backing out no matter what torque value you use. I will get a picture of what I am talking about.

 

[Jeepwx03]

The back off method works perfectly and does get rid of the clicking and/or bouncing. The bolt is not going anywhere, even at the lowered torque setting. What I also did (not mentioned previously) when I lowered the torque of the bolt, I put a nut on the back side of the bolt that extends out the front of the control arm ears. This will mechanically prevent the bolt from backing out no matter what torque value you use. I will get a picture of what I am talking about. Standby.

What you're saying makes perfect sense, do you happen to know the size off hand? I even thought about backing the bolt almost the entire way out and putting some blue thread lock on the nut threads and running it back into where it will not make the noises. Right now I marked it with a sharpie during my testing to make sure it wasn't moving.

 

[jmeiers]

What you're saying makes perfect sense, do you happen to know the size off hand? I even thought about backing the bolt almost the entire way out and putting some blue thread lock on the nut threads and running it back into where it will not make the noises. Right now I marked it with a sharpie during my testing to make sure it wasn't moving.

 

[Robottrainer]

The back off method works perfectly and does get rid of the clicking and/or bouncing. The bolt is not going anywhere, even at the lowered torque setting. What I also did (not mentioned previously) when I lowered the torque of the bolt, I put a nut on the back side of the bolt that extends out the front of the control arm ears. This will mechanically prevent the bolt from backing out no matter what torque value you use. I will get a picture of what I am talking about.

But wouldnt that negate how the bearing functions in that rather than the ball pivoting inside the bearing race, now that end of the control arm has the ball and bushings pivoting on the bolt? The problem, as I understand it is the bushing are touching in the middle so the ball isnt clamped between the bushings so the busing is sliding between the cradle brackets and the ball is sliding against the bushings.

 

[WD Pro]

But wouldnt that negate how the bearing functions in that rather than the ball pivoting inside the bearing race, now that end of the control arm has the ball and bushings pivoting on the bolt? The problem, as I understand it is the bushing are touching in the middle so the ball isnt clamped between the bushings so the busing is sliding between the cradle brackets and the ball is sliding against the bushings.

Yes, and if it isn't tight the bolt is now being loaded in shear and also subject to wear, neither which is ideal for long term reliability ...

WD

 

[jmeiers]

But wouldnt that negate how the bearing functions in that rather than the ball pivoting inside the bearing race, now that end of the control arm has the ball and bushings pivoting on the bolt? The problem, as I understand it is the bushing are touching in the middle so the ball isnt clamped between the bushings so the busing is sliding between the cradle brackets and the ball is sliding against the bushings.

The real problem is the bearing itself sucks (or bad batch of bearings that have made their way into our cars). I pulled the arm out and shaved my spacers and verified they can no longer physically touch when the bolt is torqued to 166 ft/lbs. I did this last fall at the onset of cooler weather and was no longer hearing any clicking/snapping noises and assumed the problem was gone. Now that the weather has started to warm up to summer temps upper 80s and low 90s even around the Mid-Atlantic, I started getting the noise again. Something with the bearing must expand in the hotter temps enough to cause the noise when the bolt is torqued down to the full spec of 166 ft/lbs. So yesterday, I got back under there and did my loosening method and noise is gone again.

A 20 year ago me would like to pull the damn bearing out and throw it through their window. I am too lazy to swap to the Steeda bearings so I will just continue to live with it at a slightly lower torque on the bolt. However, I would not suggest anyone install these bearings and just go with anything else out there.

 

[Robottrainer]

Yes, and if it isn't tight the bolt is now being loaded in shear and also subject to wear, neither which is ideal for long term reliability ...

WD

That's my thought as well. I was going through the same issue with the BMR cam arms where the aluminum sleeve is too short which would result in the cradle bracket clamping the delrin bushing instead of the sleeve making the arm pivot on the delrin rather than the bushing remaining stationary and the arm/bushing pivoting on the sleeve. The bolt is merely a clamping device.

 

[WD Pro]

I have some parts from another manufacturer at home that user spericals and reducer bushes - I'm going to do a quick check on the clearance between the reducer bushes and report back

WD

 

[Robottrainer]

The real problem is the bearing itself sucks (or bad batch of bearings that have made their way into our cars). I pulled the arm out and shaved my spacers and verified they can no longer physically touch when the bolt is torqued to 166 ft/lbs. I did this last fall at the onset of cooler weather and was no longer hearing any clicking/snapping noises and assumed the problem was gone. Now that the weather has started to warm up to summer temps upper 80s and low 90s even around the Mid-Atlantic, I started getting the noise again. Something with the bearing must expand in the hotter temps enough to cause the noise when the bolt is torqued down to the full spec of 166 ft/lbs. So yesterday, I got back under there and did my loosening method and noise is gone again.

A 20 year ago me would like to pull the damn bearing out and throw it through their window. I am too lazy to swap to the Steeda bearings so I will just continue to live with it at a slightly lower torque on the bolt. However, I would not suggest anyone install these bearings and just go with anything else out there.

Well that sucks! Maybe the steeda is the way to go. I like you I'm getting to old to do stuff 3 times. Mine have been quiet over 5000km. I did put the cradle lock outs in, the cradle brace and the cam arms. I am hearing a faint, intermittent click and creeking and very low speed. I can only hear it with the windows up the radio/air off and moving very slow. I attributed it to the rigid mounting of the cradle and the bushing in the cam arm as opposed to rubber bushings. All the noise in the back now transmits into the body and get amplified by the trunk area. Trade off for better performance

 

[jmeiers]

Well that sucks! Maybe the steeda is the way to go. I like you I'm getting to old to do stuff 3 times. Mine have been quiet over 5000km. I did put the cradle lock outs in, the cradle brace and the cam arms. I am hearing a faint, intermittent click and creeking and very low speed. I can only hear it with the windows up the radio/air off and moving very slow. I attributed it to the rigid mounting of the cradle and the bushing in the cam arm as opposed to rubber bushings. All the noise in the back now transmits into the body and get amplified by the trunk area. Trade off for better performance

My entire rear suspension is done except for Diff bushings. The only thing that was causing any noise was my driver side RLCA bearing, after I installed the BK055s.

The suspect bearings just bind up when fully torqued down to 166 ft./lbs. As a test yesterday, I put the back end of car on my wheel cribs. Then I put the driver side on a jack stand so that the driver side rear suspension could go thru the entire range of motion using another jack. What I noticed right away though is that there was not much fender gap between the tire and fender, even though the rear suspension was able to go full droop. So I took the rear wheel off and very slowly started backing off the RLCA bolt and after about a 1/4 turn, the rear suspension dropped to full droop. Then I jacked it up/down many times to watch it go thru the full range of motion. I was already running that extra nut on the outside frame ear so I just put that back on and snugged it up. Noise free!

 

[Robottrainer]

My entire rear suspension is done except for Diff bushings. The only thing that was causing any noise was my driver side RLCA bearing, after I installed the BK055s.

The suspect bearings just bind up when fully torqued down to 166 ft./lbs. As a test yesterday, I put the back end of car on my wheel cribs. Then I put the driver side on a jack stand so that the driver side rear suspension could go thru the entire range of motion using another jack. What I noticed right away though is that there was not much fender gap between the tire and fender, even though the rear suspension was able to go full droop. So I took the rear wheel off and very slowly started backing off the RLCA bolt and after about a 1/4 turn, the rear suspension dropped to full droop. Then I jacked it up/down many times to watch it go thru the full range of motion. I was already running that extra nut on the outside frame ear so I just put that back on and snugged it up. Noise free!

Sounds like the ball is seized

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