ISC Coilovers

[PonyGrrrl]

I'm planning on going with this ISC coilover kit on my GT. I am not sure if I should go with comfort or street race. I doubt that I will ever track my car, I would love to but most track days are work days for me. I want to drop it about 2" and still have a smooth ride. The stock suspension feels too soft, the body roll and brake dive is awful on the PP, it's too damn bouncy. I just want to tighten it up and give it a better stance without added harshness if that's possible. I definitely drive spirited whenever possible and love to push it hard on highway entrance and exit ramps but it's my DD so I don't want to have it so stiff that pot holes feel like craters. I'm new to lowering a vehicle and I am looking for a little advice. Should I go with comfort or street race?

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[CeleronXXX]

I was all done putting my opinion in but I can't really bite my tongue on this. The car in your photo is a performance pack gt and it is set to about the exact height as sportlines based on the photo and the information you guys gave me when I called asking about it. After I had made contact with you guys about the issues I was having, you admitted that you never tested that car any lower and that you would be updating your application to either not fit performance pack gt or adding a note about limited to 1.5 drop in the front. How can you tell people that they can lower the pictured car another inch when you admitted to me and I personally know that you cannot without other mods. And just for reference so everybody knows my car was rubbing well before the "stance drop" they claim in my photo, the fenders were 2.75 inches lower than stock in my photo. I'm not trying to knock your product I was very happy with the quality and the way it road aside from the rubbing, I just got a little upset because your post is very contradictory to what you told me and if people purchase and lower there pp gt another inch from your photo like you just claimed they "will" run into issues that require other mods

 

[ISC Suspension]

I'm planning on going with this ISC coilover kit on my GT. I am not sure if I should go with comfort or street race. I doubt that I will ever track my car, I would love to but most track days are work days for me. I want to drop it about 2" and still have a smooth ride. The stock suspension feels too soft, the body roll and brake dive is awful on the PP, it's too damn bouncy. I just want to tighten it up and give it a better stance without added harshness if that's possible. I definitely drive spirited whenever possible and love to push it hard on highway entrance and exit ramps but it's my DD so I don't want to have it so stiff that pot holes feel like craters. I'm new to lowering a vehicle and I am looking for a little advice. Should I go with comfort or street race?

So there are the options, the street comfort, the street sport, and the track/race. The street comfort and street sport share the same spring rate, but have different valving. The valving range for street comfort and street sport have about a 30% overlap. The track race is much more drastic, for example the stiffest setting on the street sport is the softest on the track race.

I would suggest the street sport based on what you are saying.

Hope that helps. Looks like there are some dealers on the forum who can get you some pricing, reach out to them if you are looking to order. We are not a vendor here we are just here to provide support and answer some questions.

Here is a example of the street sport and track race for reference;











Thanks,
Andrew

 

[ISC Suspension]

I was all done putting my opinion in but I can't really bite my tongue on this. The car in your photo is a performance pack gt and it is set to about the exact height as sportlines based on the photo and the information you guys gave me when I called asking about it. After I had made contact with you guys about the issues I was having, you admitted that you never tested that car any lower and that you would be updating your application to either not fit performance pack gt or adding a note about limited to 1.5 drop in the front. How can you tell people that they can lower the pictured car another inch when you admitted to me and I personally know that you cannot without other mods. And just for reference so everybody knows my car was rubbing well before the "stance drop" they claim in my photo, the fenders were 2.75 inches lower than stock in my photo. I'm not trying to knock your product I was very happy with the quality and the way it road aside from the rubbing, I just got a little upset because your post is very contradictory to what you told me and if people purchase and lower there pp gt another inch from your photo like you just claimed they "will" run into issues that require other mods

As you know I have limited information and data on what you were doing with your set, so I apologize if it appeared I was stating otherwise. You are correct that the generic description of 3 inches for our products may not be possible on the sport pack mustang. That description was overlooked when tranfered over to the F026 part number listing, hence why we refunded you when you were not happy with the ride height.
On the set we tested (the one in the images) the vehicle and the coilovers were capable of going higher or lower. We did not go maximum drop. On every vehicle there is a point where lowering it may help the suspension geometry and handling, but if you go to far it has a negative impact on the performance of the suspension and at that point you are aiming solely for cosmetic appearance. So yes the car could have been lowered a little more. Can you "slam" a 2015+ Performance Pack Mustang GT on ISC (or any coilover for that matter) coilovers? No you can't, or at least not without modifications to the suspension or a wheel spacer as you mentioned, etc.

I will try and post the install guide, it may give others some visuals who havn't modified their suspension yet or looked at it in depth (I am not saying you have not as we are aware you installed coilovers) but it may help some other members.

 

[PonyGrrrl]

So there are the options, the street comfort, the street sport, and the track/race. The street comfort and street sport share the same spring rate, but have different valving. The valving range for street comfort and street sport have about a 30% overlap. The track race is much more drastic, for example the stiffest setting on the street sport is the softest on the track race.

I would suggest the street sport based on what you are saying.

Hope that helps. Looks like there are some dealers on the forum who can get you some pricing, reach out to them if you are looking to order. We are not a vendor here we are just here to provide support and answer some questions.

Here is a example of the street sport and track race for reference;











Thanks,
Andrew

Thanks Andrew! I appreciate the response and I was planning on going with the Street Sport and wanted to confirm that I am making the right choice. I'm going to reach out to the vendors for pricing. Thanks again!

 

[ISC Suspension]

The only solution if you want it really low is to run a spacer or a shorter spring on the Coilovers, I never waited to try the shorter springs so I don't know how it would drive on them

It may be possible to implement a "ultra low" kit in the future to accommodate that, with shorter springs, etc.
We would have to make it a different part number so both options would be available for people.

I forgot to ask initially (which to some extent is irrelevant now) when you were rubbing what were the alignment specs? Feel free to PM me if you want.
My tech was asking as with a camber bolt on the bottom and the camber plates up top often times you can generate additional clearance from the wheel depending on how it was aligned.

 

[ISC Suspension]

Installation Guide:
12th down from the top
http://iscsuspension-na.com/install/

2015+ F026 Ford Mustang


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· Remove Wheels, lugnuts are 21mm
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·

FRONT
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· Remove ABS wire from the strut, it is a plastic clip
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· Remove swaybar endlink from sway bar. It is an 18mm nut, and 8mm hex to keep it from spinning.
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· Remove brake caliper to gain access to strut mount bolts. Caliper bolt is 15mm.
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· Remove strut mount nuts, 24mm.
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· These bolts are spline pressed in like a wheel stud, you will need to tap the bolts out with a hammer as they will not spin out.
​

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· Let the spindle drop easily to ensure that you are not putting stress on the abs line.
​

· Remove strut top nuts, they are 15mm leave one nut on and remove it while you have a solid hand on the strut. An additional person can also help with this.





· Anti-seize coilovers before install

· Tighten top 14mm coilover nuts to spec

· Lift spindle into bottom mount







Spindle dropped







Spindle installed

· Install lower strut bolt note: Before tightening the ISC mounts are slotted on top for minor camber adjustment so depending on application move the spindle in or out and then tighten down.

· Install ISC end links, adjust them so the sway bar is level with the lower control arm. Tighten the end link nuts 19mm with 6mm Allen to keep them from spinning. Lock down jam nuts on end link adjusters.







Positioning of Endlinks same side multiple angles







· Re-Install brake calipers and lines

· Set pre-load (5mm)

· Set ride-height (max height for coilovers will yield a 1 increase in height from OEM max drop will see 3 inches under stock.




REARS:


· Remove Shocks, top bolts: 18mm Lower Bolts: 15mm







· Remove brake line bracket

· Remove 4, 21mm subframe bolts while supported, carefully lower to remove tension on springs.

· Remove stock rear spring







· Anti-seize rear cups, set height. Max height will be about 1 inch lower than stock, 2 rotations on collars = ¼ height adjustment.

· Install spring on bottom making sure it’s seated correctly in mount.




· Install cup on top with ISC rubber between cup and body.

· Reinstall the sub frame bolts

· Lower the car to check height and make adjustments if necessary.

· For shock, OEM top mount must be reused. Remove dust cap and then remove the top 15mm nut. Remove the top mount and transfer it to the ISC top. Install with the new 17mm nut.







OEM top mount

· Anti-seize the shaft where and mount and collar will be.

· Thread the shaft into the bottom mount until it passes the window hole in the mount.

· Install complete shaft into car







· Reuse OEM 15mm bolts with the new 17mm nuts.

· Install top OEM 18mm bolts.

· Tighten all to spec.

· Thread the shaft into the mount until there is 5mm of preload on the spring and lock down the locking collars. The preload will physical move the car down 5mm.

· Rear will see min drop of .50 below OEM, with Max being 3+ lower than stock.


Photos of final product shown below.





































​

 

[CeleronXXX]

When I installed them I had the camber all the way positive on the eccentric mounting hole which should of gave me the maximum amount of clearance. I also tried adjusting the plates to no avail. I have the same car in the picture. If I could have obtained 1 inch lower than your picture I would of been happy and kept them, and I have the same car which is why I don't understand how that car had an inch left but mine did not.

 

[Brian V]

Ya know every time I look at these coilovers I have to ask Myself why did Lethal originally offer me the opportunity to cancel the order the next day and at any time during the 9 weeks I waited for an answer from ISC Manufacturing ..Darndest thing is an ISC customer service person took down my # and stated he would call me back with information about the Vendors and any possible delays . I never got a call back ..

Why would ISC establish a working network to sell these coilovers for the S550 and then Not deliver upon a legitamate purchase ?

Are the required parts for the build of these specific coilovers caught in a supply backlog ?

 

[Monica_Stang]

This is not an issue limited to ISC or the Mustang. Depending on the wheel used and the vehicle suspension geometry fitment implications can happen if ride height is brought down to far.

On the Mustang we suggest anywhere from stock height to lowered around 2 inches, similar to the images we provided on the install. That car did have some room to go lower FYI, but from a performance perspective it would have hurt the car to go lower. General consensus on the ISC's is around 3 inches, but can vary more or less depending on the vehicle and the wheels. In the case the performance pack wheels became the limiting factor.

So by performance perspective do you mean I would "break" the car if I decided to go for the slam with these?...or is it just not the optimal height if I'm looking for performance and handling benefits?

I'm looking to drop the car 2.5 - 3 inches down, and am willing to run a spacer to resolve clearance issues with the PP wheels.

 

[BmacIL]

So by performance perspective do you mean I would "break" the car if I decided to go for the slam with these?...or is it just not the optimal height if I'm looking for performance and handling benefits?

I'm looking to drop the car 2.5 - 3 inches down, and am willing to run a spacer to resolve clearance issues with the PP wheels.

Dropping the car much below 1" from factory height creates a variety of suspension geometry issues that lead to poor handling. Low cg is always good, but not at the cost of poor geometry. Race cars that are built from street cars will have parts modified/fabricated to correct the geometry when lowered further.

You can do what most of the popular lowering springs do and still be OK (1-1.25" drop), but much more and things start changing for the worse. Roll center heights are the big one, as they lower more than the cg is dropped. Bumpsteer and bump toe also, with the former able to be mostly corrected with Steeda's kit.

 

[Monica_Stang]

Dropping the car much below 1" from factory height creates a variety of suspension geometry issues that lead to poor handling. Low cg is always good, but not at the cost of poor geometry. Race cars that are built from street cars will have parts modified/fabricated to correct the geometry when lowered further.

You can do what most of the popular lowering springs do and still be OK (1-1.25" drop), but much more and things start changing for the worse. Roll center heights are the big one, as they lower more than the cg is dropped. Bumpsteer and bump toe also, with the former able to be mostly corrected with Steeda's kit.

Thanks for the input. I'm really going for things from the cosmetic stand point. So some of the more technical stuff doesn't matter to me personally. As long as I'm not f*cking up my ride.

 

[Niz55]

How the hell you adjust the front camber with the supplied camber plates?

 

[s550_grimreaper]

As far as rubbing I put a 5/16mm spacer and it cured the pp rubing issue...I have a drop of -2.5" think im able to squeeze out -3". you need a about a 20/25mm spacer to bring the wheel flush with the fender anyway cause the wheel tucking like that is just ugly. Custom wheels with the right off set will cure that problem.

 

[Monica_Stang]

As far as rubbing I put a 5/16mm spacer and it cured the pp rubing issue...I have a drop of -2.5" think Im able to squeeze out -3". you need a about a 20/25mm spacer to bring the wheel flush with the fender anyway cause the wheel tucking like that is just ugly. Custom wheels with the right off set will cure that problem.

Sorry if I'm confused. Are you saying that if you wanted the full 3 inch drop you would need a 20/25 mm spacer?

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