Is there any reason NOT to run the Girodisc rotors on the front?

[honeybadger]

When do you discard your pads (mm)

Typically between 2-4mm depending on the track, event, etc. I typically carry an extra set and try to run them as low as I feel comfortable. I won't start a day on something like 2mm and I usually wont go to a new event at 4mm. But if I feel like I can get through an entire day on the pads, I'll usually try and run them. I've only ever had a pad issue due to running them to long once and that was the result of overactive TC prematurely wearing the pad while I was trying to diagnose an intermittent electrical issue.

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[honeybadger]

@svttim, @Jeffwels - do you think pad chunks might result from washing the car, parking/letting sit, and then having to break loose the pad/rotor when you take off? If I don't dry my rotors by driving a bit immediately after washing, it can take some real throttle to get it to move (accompanied by a loud pop).

Probably not nearly as hard on the pads as actually using the brakes, but was just a thought.

9/10 times I'd bet heat is the issue, the remaining 1 time would be manufacturing defect.

 

[BierGut]

yea these days you don’t know if you’ll be waiting days or months. Well centric blanks are not bad while you’re waiting.


Yea I was going to say this. Even if it does cost about $100 more, I don’t find that margin to be unreasonable for a better product that lasts longer.

Any data out there (not hearsay) on whether they actually do last longer? Days to days, hot sessions, etc.

Besides the added expense -- proper installation of the hats to the blanks take time and it's not just a slap together proposition. They have to carefully torqued and require new attachment hardware each time. I don't know about you, but while I am at the track busy with runs and students and need to swap rotors the last thing I have time for it assembling two piece rotors. I'd rather just pull out new OEMs and slap them on the car. I suppose if inclined one can always buy a second set of hats, but now you have added an additional $400 give or take to have them in the trailer. To each his own, but the marginal increase in longevity, if there is, is not worth the money, effort and time. YMMV.

GiroDisc is a fantastic and great solution where an increase in performance is warranted, but it does not increase braking performance for the GT350.

 

[honeybadger]

Any data out there (not hearsay) on whether they actually do last longer? Days to days, hot sessions, etc.

Besides the added expense -- proper installation of the hats to the blanks take time and it's not just a slap together proposition. They have to carefully torqued and require new attachment hardware each time. I don't know about you, but while I am at the track busy with runs and students and need to swap rotors the last thing I have time for it assembling two piece rotors. I'd rather just pull out new OEMs and slap them on the car. I suppose if inclined one can always buy a second set of hats, but now you have added an additional $400 give or take to have them in the trailer. To each his own, but the marginal increase in longevity, if there is, is not worth the money, effort and time. YMMV.

GiroDisc is a fantastic and great solution where an increase in performance is warranted, but it does not increase braking performance for the GT350.

I wouldn't go on record saying everyone is going to see a performance increase from these rotors since I largely agree with your sentiment (the performance delta isn't significant), but I will say they are an outright superior product. They're made from better materials, they're about 1lb lighter, they're more consistent lap after lap (slots are better than drilled or blank), they're more heat tolerant, etc. I could go on.

Ultimately, will it improve your lap time? Meh, probably not for everyone. But, do I trust my brakes more? yep. This makes my lap times better lap after lap.

First event at COTA I was going 25m deeper into the T12 brake zone after bolting them on (same pads as OEM rotors). And most recently, I am braking for T1 at the 100m marker at 130mph lap after lap in all weather conditions.




Is this possible with stock rotors? Probably. Is it possible every time? Not that I could figure out.

 

[BierGut]

I wouldn't go on record saying everyone is going to see a performance increase from these rotors since I largely agree with your sentiment (the performance delta isn't significant), but I will say they are an outright superior product. They're made from better materials, they're about 1lb lighter, they're more consistent lap after lap (slots are better than drilled or blank), they're more heat tolerant, etc. I could go on.

Ultimately, will it improve your lap time? Meh, probably not for everyone. But, do I trust my brakes more? yep. This makes my lap times better lap after lap.

First event at COTA I was going 25m deeper into the T12 brake zone after bolting them on (same pads as OEM rotors). And most recently, I am braking for T1 at the 100m marker at 130mph lap after lap in all weather conditions.




Is this possible with stock rotors? Probably. Is it possible every time? Not that I could figure out.

As I said -- never disputed their quality -- I've spoken at length with Mike over there a number of times -- I run them on my C6 and ran them on my Z/28. I've never seen a difference in longevity which is what I wanted some data on. They (GiroDisc) lasted 8-10 days on my Z/28, 8-10 days on the Vette and the Ford OEM solids last.... 8-10 days. Others may see more or less.

My point was, and this depends on the level of driver, for the increase in price and "added work" is it worth it for the OP? And -- if I was "really" racing the GT350 or any other car -- the OEM brakes or GiroDiscs would certainly NOT be the brakes of choice. (I.e. AP Racing, or true race Brembos with knock backs and zero rubber, etc.)

 

[honeybadger]

As I said -- never disputed their quality -- I've spoken at length with Mike over there a number of times -- I run them on my C6 and ran them on my Z/28. I've never seen a difference in longevity which is what I wanted some data on. They (GiroDisc) lasted 8-10 days on my Z/28, 8-10 days on the Vette and the Ford OEM solids last.... 8-10 days. Others may see more or less.

My point was, and this depends on the level of driver, for the increase in price and "added work" is it worth it for the OP? And -- if I was "really" racing the GT350 or any other car -- the OEM brakes or GiroDiscs would certainly NOT be the brakes of choice. (I.e. AP Racing, or true race Brembos with knock backs and zero rubber, etc.)

Not sure if you've read the entire thread, but I shared my data. It's there and objectively says that they're better (at least for me) in both life and performance. Whether that's worth the extra cost and time...that's up to OP to assess using the available data and opinions. For me, it's worth the extra cost and time as outlined in my previous post.

They're a much cheaper way to get very, very close to the performance of the AP Racing kit (outside of weight savings and access to endurance pads) if you don't have the need for the full race kit.

IMHO, when paired with Cobalt XR1/XR2 pads + brake deflectors, they're a no brainer. You'll be VERY hard pressed to find a better setup without a very significant investment.

 

[BierGut]

Not sure if you've read the entire thread, but I shared my data. It's there and objectively says that they're better (at least for me) in both life and performance. Whether that's worth the extra cost and time...that's up to OP to assess using the available data and opinions. For me, it's worth the extra cost and time as outlined in my previous post.

They're a much cheaper way to get very, very close to the performance of the AP Racing kit (outside of weight savings and access to endurance pads) if you don't have the need for the full race kit.

IMHO, when paired with Cobalt XR1/XR2 pads + brake deflectors, they're a no brainer. You'll be VERY hard pressed to find a better setup without a very significant investment.

Like you said... "without significant investment" and that's racing. BTW - there is nothing like a 25mm brake pad.

I've never tried the Cobalts, friends have and were pleased with them. I've always used Pagid RS29s or PFC's 01 compound before that. It doesn't make sense for me to move away from those as I get a 20% discount on my wholesale account. But if ever...

 

[svttim]

Was that an OEM pad or GLoc? I've seen GLoc explode but never heard of OEM having that issue. I know how much I consume rotors and pads as I measure after every event but regardless if I know I won't make it the full 5 sessions and it will just be a PITA to change the pads out at 90 degrees in the heat then I'll make a call to swap pads to my fresh pads.

Actually on my race car. PFC system including pads

 

[jmn444]

Actually on my race car. PFC system including pads

I've never used PFC, but also haven't used any track pads (aside from oem) that have the squeal tabs still... which pfc's were you running? does anyone sell them in gt350 shape?

 

[svttim]

@svttim, @Jeffwels - do you think pad chunks might result from washing the car, parking/letting sit, and then having to break loose the pad/rotor when you take off? If I don't dry my rotors by driving a bit immediately after washing, it can take some real throttle to get it to move (accompanied by a loud pop).

Probably not nearly as hard on the pads as actually using the brakes, but was just a thought.

The PFC pads on the race car were very thick compared to the GT350 pad (24mm or more) I had just increased tire size and softer compound. The car was extremely fast that day. Im faily certain the heat got to the pad and it come unglued to the backing. the other side still had 5 mm left. I do not want to repeat the episode with my R

 

[svttim]

I've never used PFC, but also haven't used any track pads (aside from oem) that have the squeal tabs still... which pfc's were you running? does anyone sell them in gt350 shape?

I believe they were 97s. I have not seen a PFC pad for the 350. I still trust PFC and would purchase them in a heartbeat

 

[jmn444]

I believe they were 97s. I have not seen a PFC pad for the 350. I still trust PFC and would purchase them in a heartbeat

yeah i've only heard good things about them over the years, would love to try them sometime. guess i'll see if they make them for the next car haha

 

[JAJ]

yeah i've only heard good things about them over the years, would love to try them sometime. guess i'll see if they make them for the next car haha

I had PFC-01's on my BMW E39 M5 - heavy car on a track known for it's ability to cook brakes - they were great. Only problem was the dust - turned to cementite if it got damp, much less wet. I used to coat my wheels with Vaseline at the start of the season and wipe them down after the end. A very thin coating looked like hell but it worked great, kept the wheels nice and no sticky deposits.

If you want to try PFC's, Porterfield has these:

 

[NoXiDe]

I had PFC-01's on my BMW E39 M5 - heavy car on a track known for it's ability to cook brakes - they were great. Only problem was the dust - turned to cementite if it got damp, much less wet. I used to coat my wheels with Vaseline at the start of the season and wipe them down after the end. A very thin coating looked like hell but it worked great, kept the wheels nice and no sticky deposits.

If you want to try PFC's, Porterfield has these:

I heard ST43s do the same... going to try Pagid yellows one of these days... but is it that difficult to get off? I have heard it's a nightmare but yet to go down that road.

 

[jmn444]

I've not had issues w/ st43 dust. I've had that issue with porterfields on my vintage mustang though, really sucked and if pfc's do that I'm not interested haha

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