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Is there any reason NOT to run the Girodisc rotors on the front?

matthewr87

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My OEM drilled rotors have started to crack so I need to replace them. The OEM non-drilled rotors are around $700 for the pair. The Girodisc can be had for ~$1000. Is there any reason to not run the Girodisc? Is it a bad idea to run the Girodisc on the front but OEM drilled on the back? Thanks
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jmn444

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I've been pondering switching too, but I don't need rears so makes the marginal cost higher due to aforementioned ocd issues haha
 
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matthewr87

matthewr87

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My ocd would not be okay with it cosmetically haha.... but other than that I can't fathom any mechanical reasoning.
Yeah the cosmetic aspect is something I have considered. But if I switch to OEM non-drilled it will still clash with the OEM drilled in the back. And I have a set of OEM drilled on order but it has been a month and they still haven't shipped so I am just going to cancel.

I have OCD as well but for self-preservation purposes my OCD for this car started to decrease once I began to track it.
 

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More of a reason to run them. Cost is the only deterrent.
 

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Andy13186

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Pics of the cracks on your current rotors? It may not be a problem
 
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matthewr87

matthewr87

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Pics of the cracks on your current rotors? It may not be a problem
They are largely surface cracks but they are expanding out from the drill holes so I want to have a new set on hand just in case I need to change them out mid-track weekend.
 

Biggsy

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what pads you use and number of track days planned would be a reason not to especially if you are chasing times and want to cut down weight

If you use the same OEM pads or GLOC for street and track then doesn't hurt to get them other than the points mentioned already.

If you use a different set of pads for track then I wouldn't unless you feel like sanding down the brake material from one pad use to switch to the other.

side note... Im in Maryland too. hope to see at at Summit or VIR this year if you go
 
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matthewr87

matthewr87

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what pads you use and number of track days planned would be a reason not to especially if you are chasing times and want to cut down weight

If you use the same OEM pads or GLOC for street and track then doesn't hurt to get them other than the points mentioned already.

If you use a different set of pads for track then I wouldn't unless you feel like sanding down the brake material from one pad use to switch to the other.

side note... Im in Maryland too. hope to see at at Summit or VIR this year if you go
Yeah man I use the same pads (OEM) for street and track. I like to track my car but I am slow so I'm not chasing times :giggle:

I'm going to try to attend one of the Summit Point Main events with WDCR SCCA and I'm eyeing one of the VIR events with CHIN. Also hopefully Pitt Race. Never been there before.
 

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Yeah man I use the same pads (OEM) for street and track. I like to track my car but I am slow so I'm not chasing times :giggle:

I'm going to try to attend one of the Summit Point Main events with WDCR SCCA and I'm eyeing one of the VIR events with CHIN. Also hopefully Pitt Race. Never been there before.
Well then at least the disc will make you feel less slow lol. If you can find Girodisc for $1k then I dont see it being a bad move because when the discs need to be changed, you can just buy the discs separately which cost about $200 less than buying the entire assembly (ring + center hat)
 

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Are they cracks in the metal or just cracks in the deposited pad material?
 

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I run the GiroDisc rotors front and rear. Highly recommend them. They're priced pretty competitively once you get a couple sets in, they work great, quick to order, and I like the fact it's easy to get cryo'd version. IME, they last at least 1 extra weekend at COTA over OEM in the same conditions. I'd say it's safe to expect more depending on tracks, pad compound, tires, etc.

While I won't contribute this solely to the rotors or pads, I'd take my current brake setup up against any other combination--including the AP racing kits. I run with quite a few GT3 RS cars on Hoosiers at COTA running various forms of their kits (PCCBs, irons with race pads, etc.) and I have no trouble matching or beating their brake points. Needless to say, I am very happy with my GiroDisc rotors and Cobalt pads.
 

jmn444

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I run the GiroDisc rotors front and rear. Highly recommend them. They're priced pretty competitively once you get a couple sets in, they work great, quick to order, and I like the fact it's easy to get cryo'd version. IME, they last at least 1 extra weekend at COTA over OEM in the same conditions. I'd say it's safe to expect more depending on tracks, pad compound, tires, etc.

While I won't contribute this solely to the rotors or pads, I'd take my current brake setup up against any other combination--including the AP racing kits. I run with quite a few GT3 RS cars on Hoosiers at COTA running various forms of their kits (PCCBs, irons with race pads, etc.) and I have no trouble matching or beating their brake points. Needless to say, I am very happy with my GiroDisc rotors and Cobalt pads.
which cobalts? how long do the pads last roughly?
 

honeybadger

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which cobalts? how long do the pads last roughly?
Cobalt XR1 front and XR2 rear. This is a very aggressive compound. Needs 3Rs or better tires, imho. Best on slicks.

I’m currently at (4) full days on them at COTA and a little more than half life. I’d expect (4) events on the fronts at COTA to be the norm unless they start to burn faster as they wear. I’ll know more after next weekend.

I seriously can’t comprehend how a pad can bite that hard and last that long. It’s nuts.
 

jmn444

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Cobalt XR1 front and XR2 rear. This is a very aggressive compound. Needs 3Rs or better tires, imho. Best on slicks.

I’m currently at (4) full days on them at COTA and a little more than half life. I’d expect (4) events on the fronts at COTA to be the norm unless they start to burn faster as they wear. I’ll know more after next weekend.

I seriously can’t comprehend how a pad can bite that hard and last that long. It’s nuts.
nice, thanks!
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