Installed my Centerforce clutch yesterday (Pictures)

[Prodigal]

So is it safe to say stock clutch are good for about 30k.

I think you count supercharged miles like you count dog years, 7:1 ratio. OP said 30k total but 6k with the huffer.

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[Justgonna send it]

this is my first time doing a clutch on a mustang this new, just wondering if you are tuned did u have to flash back to stock before install? also did you have to do any type of relearn process for the car?

 

[NGOT8R]

Thanks! Hope it performs as well as it looks.

But dang, three times!! Ouch.

I just went back and looked at your install pics a second ago. Looks like you’re using ARP flywheel bolts. I ordered some for mine, but they were too short. According to LMR, they are intended for use with a single disc clutch. They recommend ordering new OEM bolts, which is what I did. My ARP bolts only extended 1/4” past the back of the flywheel. I’m glad I didn’t proceed with installing them because it would have eventually led to Panic at the Disco (A.K.A. Big trouble). I hope you’re good to go.

 

[BluePonyGT]

So is it safe to say stock clutch are good for about 30k.

I'm past 60k on mine. Throw-out bearing is starting to make noise so I'm planning my own clutch conversion.

That being said I'm curious: With the entry-level twin disk version what did you do about your throwout bearing setup, your hydraulic line, etc.? I've been playing around with the idea of going dual disk as well, but it's a track car, so I'm inclined to just go with a single disk that can handle max 600 hp. However, with the added depth of the clutch pack on your setup i assume you have to go with a different throwout bearing setup that's adjustable for that depth?

 

[Justgonna send it]

I just order a vengeance stg1 and ford slaver cylinder/throw out from @beefcake for good price and flywheel is killer. So we will see if it can hold up better

 

[beefcake]

I just order a vengeance stg1 and ford slaver cylinder/throw out from @beefcake for good price and flywheel is killer. So we will see if it can hold up better

appreciate the business!

 

[KKell83]

this is my first time doing a clutch on a mustang this new, just wondering if you are tuned did u have to flash back to stock before install? also did you have to do any type of relearn process for the car?

I didn't have to play with the tune again, but it did throw a 'check engine' light which went away after I did the crank relearn - used HP tuners.

 

[Justgonna send it]

I didn't have to play with the tune again, but it did throw a 'check engine' light which went away after I did the crank relearn - used HP tuners.

great I also have Hptune Ngauge. I spoke to PBD and they said I don’t need any type of file for crank relearn cause I’m using steel flywheel.

how did u do the crank relearn on the tune. #im new to this lol

 

[KKell83]

I'm past 60k on mine. Throw-out bearing is starting to make noise so I'm planning my own clutch conversion.

That being said I'm curious: With the entry-level twin disk version what did you do about your throwout bearing setup, your hydraulic line, etc.? I've been playing around with the idea of going dual disk as well, but it's a track car, so I'm inclined to just go with a single disk that can handle max 600 hp. However, with the added depth of the clutch pack on your setup i assume you have to go with a different throwout bearing setup that's adjustable for that depth?

Not sure if your message was directed to me but when I was looking into clutches I too went back and forth about picking a single or twin disc. Sadly, high end single disc setups ran a couple hundred less and held less power so I chose a twin based on that reason. Unfortunately, I cannot recomment Centerforce since I had issues (just fixed it - new Centerforce TOB was bad) which made the clutch stick since day one. I would call almost weekly and talk to their techs with zero help/support. And once I found the issue they didn't go up and beyond; it's still leaving a sour taste in my mouth... Anyways you may get lucky if you go this route brand wise. Not sure how much power you're going for but they claim the organic disc aren't great for drag since they don't like heat (so no hot lapping), I would think the same if you're doing a lot of downshifts on a circuit but I know nothing... Some suggest ceramic discs since they take that abuse a lot better but they're also known to bite hard causing issues to some here.

With that said, I would skip any single and focus on a twin disc's only. I also have zero chatter with solid hubs after the first 100 miles. If I was looking again Exedy's stage 4 twin disc or the more expensive Vengence since it has a nice flywheel designed for cooling.

 

[KKell83]

great I also have Hptune Ngauge. I spoke to PBD and they said I don’t need any type of file for crank relearn cause I’m using steel flywheel.

how did u do the crank relearn on the tune. #im new to this lol

Cool. Yeah it's very easy.

1) Plug your HP tuner into your car and laptop
2) Open VCM scanner
3) Click the button of the car "Connect to Vehicle"
4) Once connected, select the "Vehicle Controls & Special Functions"
5) You have to be around 180+ degrees and it'll want you to rev slowly to 4500rpms (you have 20 seconds).

I had to do mine twice to take the engine light off

 

[NGOT8R]

@KKell83, do you remember if your ARP flywheel bolts were 1” or 1 3/4”? If they were 1 3/4, do you have the part number handy? I really wish I could have used ARP bolts over the factory ones.

 

[KKell83]

@KKell83, do you remember if your ARP flywheel bolts were 1” or 1 3/4”? If they were 1 3/4, do you have the part number handy? I really wish I could have used ARP bolts over the factory ones.

They were included in my clutch kit by Centerforce. Let me see if they state it.

 

[BluePonyGT]

Not sure if your message was directed to me but when I was looking into clutches I too went back and forth about picking a single or twin disc. Sadly, high end single disc setups ran a couple hundred less and held less power so I chose a twin based on that reason. Unfortunately, I cannot recomment Centerforce since I had issues (just fixed it - new Centerforce TOB was bad) which made the clutch stick since day one. I would call almost weekly and talk to their techs with zero help/support. And once I found the issue they didn't go up and beyond; it's still leaving a sour taste in my mouth... Anyways you may get lucky if you go this route brand wise. Not sure how much power you're going for but they claim the organic disc aren't great for drag since they don't like heat (so no hot lapping), I would think the same if you're doing a lot of downshifts on a circuit but I know nothing... Some suggest ceramic discs since they take that abuse a lot better but they're also known to bite hard causing issues to some here.

With that said, I would skip any single and focus on a twin disc's only. I also have zero chatter with solid hubs after the first 100 miles. If I was looking again Exedy's stage 4 twin disc or the more expensive Vengence since it has a nice flywheel designed for cooling.

Directed at OP and that's you!

Seriously, thanks a TON for your answer. That helps a lot. I don't want to waste my time putting a clutch in I'll then have to replace due to excessive slipping, and aggressive shifting. Since I'm sticking with the MT82 I'll be putting a short throw shifter (unit mounted) in place of the factory shifter as well. So if it's dual clutch then its a question of which one. I'd like to stay with a steel flywheel.

Lethal Performance is offering to help me with my setup, so it sounds to me I just need to get the right TOB based on which one I pick and a metal/braided hydraulic line from the reservior.

 

[MajHazrd]

I meant to Quote this entry:
" Unfortunately, I cannot recomment Centerforce since I had issues (just fixed it - new Centerforce TOB was bad) which made the clutch stick since day one. I would call almost weekly and talk to their techs with zero help/support. And once I found the issue they didn't go up and beyond; it's still leaving a sour taste in my mouth... Anyways you may get lucky if you go this route brand wise. "


I just pulled the trans out of my 2015 because 6th gear synchro is out of it. Going to send it to Calimer to be rebuilt.
I had installed a Centerforce single disc clutch about a couple of years ago. Had throwout bearing issues, the stock one got damaged when I trashed the stock clutch doing a 2nd to 1st incidental shift!
So I replaced the stock throwout with a Centerforce metal sleeved throwout bearing... thinking "metal is better!" I didn't have any issues for the first year. But then started having clutch sticking issues again. I checked the Centerforce throwout bearing yesterday and found that it sticks really hard, doesn't hardly slide at all. I can't pull it back out, I have to beat it on my shop work bench to get it to come back out to the extended position. Looks like clutch dust gets in the sleeve and makes it stick. I put some WD40 on it just to see if it would help, it did, but I'm not cleaning it up, it'll just do it again.
I'll be switching back to a Ford Throwout bearing.
I would not recommend the Centerforce Throwout bearing.

 

[NGOT8R]

Sorry to hear about the trouble you’ve had with your new setup. It isn’t like pulling these transmissions is a 10 minute job. I hope you’re on the right track this time around and get it sorted out.

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