How I improved the B&O sound quality for free

[Tyler2386]

I am not sure. I added the JL Twk though, and it fixed my issue.

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[Corona2488]

I have 2019 with 12 speaker system. I’m curious how much power that the sub channel puts out from the stock amp if anyone knows. Also if I want to replace the sub with an aftermarket 4ohm DVC which has 2+ and 2 - on the speaker which wires from stock clips would I connect

 

[Gregs24]

I have 2019 with 12 speaker system. I’m curious how much power that the sub channel puts out from the stock amp if anyone knows. Also if I want to replace the sub with an aftermarket 4ohm DVC which has 2+ and 2 - on the speaker which wires from stock clips would I connect

B&O 10" sub replacement guide | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

All in the first post.

 

[Elp_jc]

The power question was never answered, so we still don't know how much power the stock amp puts out. I just replaced the sub with that Pioneer linked above, and I immediately questioned if it was a good idea to replace the crappy stock sub with such a massively larger one. And I asked again how much power does the stock amp puts out, just to make sure the new sub wasn't going to fry it, or cause other issues. The stock sub weighs a little over 3 lbs, and the Pioneer one almost 9; it's a massive difference. But apparently it's comparable to stock in that it has dual voice coils @ 4 ohms. It has an RMS power of 400W, with a max of 1,300W. I'd be surprised if the stock one is 80/250. I haven't tried it yet, but supposedly it makes a noticeable improvement. I don't doubt that, but just hope it's not going to cause any issues in the long run.

 

[Corona2488]

The power question was never answered, so we still don't know how much power the stock amp puts out. I just replaced the sub with that Pioneer linked above, and I immediately questioned if it was a good idea to replace the crappy stock sub with such a massively larger one. And I asked again how much power does the stock amp puts out, just to make sure the new sub wasn't going to fry it, or cause other issues. The stock sub weighs a little over 3 lbs, and the Pioneer one almost 9; it's a massive difference. But apparently it's comparable to stock in that it has dual voice coils @ 4 ohms. It has an RMS power of 400W, with a max of 1,300W. I'd be surprised if the stock one is 80/250. I haven't tried it yet, but supposedly it makes a noticeable improvement. I don't doubt that, but just hope it's not going to cause any issues in the long run.

yea I’ve been looking forthe answer to the power question for awhile now with no luck. Id like to put an alpine 10” 4ohm DVC in but I know I’d need a better amp since it is 750 watts rms

 

[Gregs24]

The power question was never answered, so we still don't know how much power the stock amp puts out. I just replaced the sub with that Pioneer linked above, and I immediately questioned if it was a good idea to replace the crappy stock sub with such a massively larger one. And I asked again how much power does the stock amp puts out, just to make sure the new sub wasn't going to fry it, or cause other issues. The stock sub weighs a little over 3 lbs, and the Pioneer one almost 9; it's a massive difference. But apparently it's comparable to stock in that it has dual voice coils @ 4 ohms. It has an RMS power of 400W, with a max of 1,300W. I'd be surprised if the stock one is 80/250. I haven't tried it yet, but supposedly it makes a noticeable improvement. I don't doubt that, but just hope it's not going to cause any issues in the long run.

There will never be a problem under driving a speaker. It has the same impedance as stock so the load on the amplifier is the same. The Pioneer puts out more (and FAR more controlled) bass than the OEM speaker.

Stock amp puts out '1000w' - whether that is RMS or not I don't know, but there is unlikely to be more than 100w per bass channel when you divide it up between 11 other speakers.

 

[FreePenguin]

There will never be a problem under driving a speaker. It has the same impedance as stock so the load on the amplifier is the same. The Pioneer puts out more (and FAR more controlled) bass than the OEM speaker.

Stock amp puts out '1000w' - whether that is RMS or not I don't know, but there is unlikely to be more than 100w per bass channel when you divide it up between 11 other speakers.

wait what, does the stock amp actually provide 1000 watts of power? I mean, to all channels yes. but thats crazy if true.

what happens if you disable a channel, do other channels get a little more power boost?

ie. disable 1 speaker, do the other 8 speakers then get a couple extra watts? or remove subwoofer from a 12 speaker, does that increase 100 watts divided by the speakers?

just wondering.

 

[Gregs24]

yea I’ve been looking forthe answer to the power question for awhile now with no luck. Id like to put an alpine 10” 4ohm DVC in but I know I’d need a better amp since it is 750 watts rms

You are mixing up power and sensitivity. The power rating tells you what the speaker can tolerate without burning out. The impedance tells you the load on the amplifier (as long as it is the same or higher the amp will be safe) The sensitivity then tells you how 'loud' the speaker will be for any given input power. Now speakers that can take higher power ratings do tend to need more power to drive them properly but you will never damage the amplifier, just end up with a speaker that doesn't perform optimally. There is no point fitting a 750w speaker to the stock system as a lower power rating (and cheaper speaker)will work just fine. The 750 w speaker is just overkill and will make no difference to the sound over a lower power speaker such as the Pioneer

 

[Gregs24]

wait what, does the stock amp actually provide 1000 watts of power? I mean, to all channels yes. but thats crazy if true.

what happens if you disable a channel, do other channels get a little more power boost?

ie. disable 1 speaker, do the other 8 speakers then get a couple extra watts? or remove subwoofer from a 12 speaker, does that increase 100 watts divided by the speakers?

just wondering.

Ford quote 1000w output for the B&O system, but that is probably PMPO (Peak Music Power Output) rather than RMS (Route Mean Square). That is also total to all speakers and each channel will only deliver so much so removing a speaker will not give more to the others.

Incidentally the 'power' figures in car HiFi has always been a bit of a joke, Home audio (or at least the proper stuff) never has such ludicrous figures. My Rotel amp has 60w RMS per channel but produces far more real power and sound than the '1000w' car system

 

[FreePenguin]

Ford quote 1000w output for the B&O system, but that is probably PMPO (Peak Music Power Output) rather than RMS (Route Mean Square). That is also total to all speakers and each channel will only deliver so much so removing a speaker will not give more to the others.

Incidentally the 'power' figures in car HiFi has always been a bit of a joke, Home audio (or at least the proper stuff) never has such ludicrous figures. My Rotel amp has 60w RMS per channel but produces far more real power and sound than the '1000w' car system

I just assumed 300-400watts rms for EVERYTHING, all speakers, and 100 watts for sub. I figure the oem speakers are extremely high sensitivity to be efficient with its power.

can you comment on what happens if you remove a speaker, does the unused power go back into the distribution block/amp? divided into the other channels? ie. get rid of half the speakers, do the unused channels power go and make the other channels stronger?

 

[Gregs24]

I just assumed 300-400watts rms for EVERYTHING, all speakers, and 100 watts for sub. I figure the oem speakers are extremely high sensitivity to be efficient with its power.

can you comment on what happens if you remove a speaker, does the unused power go back into the distribution block/amp? divided into the other channels? ie. get rid of half the speakers, do the unused channels power go and make the other channels stronger?

I very much doubt it - each channel will be limited. There are high end amps that can do this but not in the Mustang !

As regards power - what is the fuse for the Sync unit amp ? - 30A I believe. 12v x 30 amps will give you the maximum power available, which when you consider the slight headroom for the fuse and less than 100% efficiency the maximum power RMS is around 300w at best for all the speakers.

 

[DGuetti]

So I’ve read this whole thread and to be honest I’m more confused than ever. If I wanted to simply replace speakers and leave factory amp what should I buy? I would like to start with subwoofer and dashboard center speaker(s)

 

[Gregs24]

So I’ve read this whole thread and to be honest I’m more confused than ever. If I wanted to simply replace speakers and leave factory amp what should I buy? I would like to start with subwoofer and dashboard center speaker(s)

If you can buy the Pioneer sub it will make a huge difference

 

[DGuetti]

If you can buy the Pioneer sub it will make a huge difference

Which one lol

 

[Gregs24]

Which one lol

B&O 10" sub replacement guide | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

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