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How heavy is too heavy for wheels?

geokots

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If the numbers are right, and you can drop 6 - 10 pounds per wheel of rotating weight, it seems like you would end up with a noticeably better car.
If willing to invest in good rims 10lbs per tire is very possible but there's a cost to that.
The 40lbs of overall weight and 10lbs less rotational weight will make a big difference.
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No, "cheap" aftermarket wheels will be OEM weight or more. The wheels using the flow form process cost more but are worth it and will be in the 24 to 26 lb range for 20", with 19 and 18 being even less. Then of course you have forged wheels which cost even more but can drop the lbs even more.
Cheap is a very relative term, but this is an example of the price ($164.99) & weight I'm seeing in a few options that look interesting.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/black-amr-19x85-0513.html

Down in the specs these are shown at 26.9 lbs (5 pounds under what the oem GT PP front wheels were reported to be) and there appear to be similar price & weight options. Looks like at $400 a wheel you get down around 22lb for 19x8.5 which seems reasonable.

The reported weight of the oem's (32lb for the front) just seems like a lot.
 

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Oh wow, you need to read up on the effects of rotational weight. Aside from a loss of power put to the ground with heavy wheels, you also have a loss of braking performance and the suspension does not react as well.

Here is a nice idea of the difference light weight wheels can make...

www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=267369
But in the real world, not on the race track, you're rarely likely to encounter a situation where you've got accelerative forces in any direction greater than 0.2 g or so, unless you're about to get into an accident and need to do an emergency stop. So it really shouldn't matter.
 

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But in the real world, not on the race track, you're rarely likely to encounter a situation where you've got accelerative forces in any direction greater than 0.2 g or so, unless you're about to get into an accident and need to do an emergency stop. So it really shouldn't matter.
I know the mustang can show how many g's and maybe my opinion will change but .2 is not a lot.
 

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It would definitely be greater than 0.2, but still the point is you won't be close to the limit, and especially during winter driving conditions.

I still say use the stock PP ones for winter as they're good enough. And if you care about performance, get some lighter ones for the summer.
 

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That's what I planned to do all along. I don't care about winter performance.
 
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I still say use the stock PP ones for winter as they're good enough. And if you care about performance, get some lighter ones for the summer.
I've pretty much warmed up to that notion myself. Would like to confirm that the stock wheels are really in the 32 lb range before committing $'s.
 

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Looking for a 19x8.5 square set of wheels to use during cold weather. They will be clothed in all seasons.

Problem is that I don't know diddly squat when it comes to figuring out how much a heavy wheel will mess up ride & handling & etc. and I don't have a reference point for what is a light and heavy wheel.

Am not going to track the car, but would like to buy a wheel that won't noticeably mess things up in daily driving and occasional spirited curvy road driving.

If anyone is interested in sharing their wheel weight versus performance experiences and or knows what stock GT PP wheels weigh, any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks!!
Why buy rims for winter and not put winter tires on them?
 
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I know the mustang can show how many g's and maybe my opinion will change but .2 is not a lot.
Apples and oranges.
I assume that the .2g is a wild guess at deceleration of the body of the car under braking, does not tell you much about forces related to the weight of the rotating mass of the wheels.

Put another way, if .2g was accurate and reducing wheel weight would improve braking by a whopping 20%, this would be huge, but the number would now only be .24g which looks pretty much the same as .2g.
 
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Why buy rims for winter and not put winter tires on them?
Local climate.
Big temperature swings December - March 1 and very little snow accumulation, and a 4wd truck on the rare days when it is really nasty.

Oh. And I'd like to maybe head south to visit relatives in Florida during the worst part of the winter. If I used summers it would be white knuckles the first half of the trip & if I used winters I've heard that they wear so fast in 80+ degree weather that you can almost feel the car getting lower :).
 

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Imo, a heavy wheel for 19s is 25lbs or more and 18s is 22lbs or more.

I have 18" enkei PF01s on my car that weigh ~20lbs each. I felt a big difference in braking, corning, and stopping with these wheels. My original wheels were 26-28lbs. I'm hoping they will swap over to the stang when I get one :)
 

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Imo, a heavy wheel for 19s is 25lbs or more and 18s is 22lbs or more.

I have 18" enkei PF01s on my car that weigh ~20lbs each. I felt a big difference in braking, corning, and stopping with these wheels. My original wheels were 26-28lbs. I'm hoping they will swap over to the stang when I get one :)
Genesis has VERY different offsets. Won't work.
 

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Genesis has VERY different offsets. Won't work.
Well, this are the current offsets I found for the 2015 in another post

17 x 7.5 et 37.5
18 x 8.0 et 40.0
19 x 9.5 et 42.5
19 x 9.0 et 45.0 (GT PP Front)
19 x 9.5 et 52.5 (GT PP Rear)
20 x 9.0 et 42.5

I'm not sure about strut clearance but my wheels are 18x8.5+30 and 18x9.5+35. My 9.5s might be ok in the front, and I would just pick up another set of rears. I just keep checking the forums to see what people are successfully fitting.
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