Honey Badger's Completely Off-the-Rails Race Car Build and Track Adventure Thread

[honeybadger]

CAD - "cardboard-aided design" had me ROFL.

2 ideas:

Why not use 'crumple' plastic like say 3 layers of corrugated plastic sheet instead of something as stout as 1/2" plywood? That way you hit anything it disintegrates on impact. You can use thin strips of metal (think angle-iron used to join 2x4s together in joists, but thinner like those metal yardsticks) to give it a little more body and prevent pull-thru of the fasteners. Nylon fasteners would also sheer in a hit.

How about tilting the air dam downward ala 1970's Mach 1? Granted the S550 rides damn low compared to cars from 50 years ago so maybe there isn't enough clearance. But maybe tie the two catfish 'legs' with a panel at the same angle?

I can't take credit for the CAD comment, but I do enjoy using it. hehe

The wood I use is only 3/8in, so it's fairly flexible. I actually had cracked it in a few places before ripping it off. I think it was just the perfect storm. It's actually quite a difficult balance because the splitter still sees significant load and smashes into the ground - so it's gotta be tough. But you also don't want it too tough. Wood feels like a great balance. It'll handle the hits, but it'll also sheer if needed.

The airdam one is something I've been looking into. I'm also working with AJ Hartman here. I'd love a custom molded setup that integrates with the bumper like this

https://ajhartmanaero.com/s197-05-09-carbon-air-dam/

 

[honeybadger]

Next weekend I am headed to COTA again for another track weekend--this time with Chin Track Days. Have some additional changes we'll trying out:

1. First up is one Soler Engineering's TBs. A local buddy of mine has been using it on the street for with success for the last couple weeks. He's been a huge fan. I'm excited to see how it performs on the track. As always, I'll share candid feedback.



2. @ajhartman sent over some splitter end plates to test out. He's prototyping a set of 3D printed end plates that be bolted onto most aftermarket splitters that will be a lower cost option compared to a CF part. These things weigh practically nothing and are plenty rigid, so this appears to be a great compromise. AJ's data says they should add 45 lbs at 100MPH. I plan to run back to back sessions with/without on the same fresh sticker 3Rs for optimal data gathering (as best as one can do on a HPDE day with traffic).

While I won't have this for next week, I have also ordered a new clutch setup from Spec. It's a full road racing setup with the lightest flywheel and clutch assembly possible. It should pull well over 25lbs out of the current setup, allowing the motor to rev much faster and introduce a bit more durability. I'll share more details when it comes in and I can weigh stuff, take pics, etc.

 

[Tractor Junk]

Three very interesting improvements, I look forward to your feedback!

 

[JAJ]

Two things - one note and one question:

The note - somebody I was running with a couple of years ago at the Ridge lost their splitter (a lovely red Viper as I recall) because the setup wasn't strong enough. The advice they got was that if you can't stand on your splitter, it's too weak. Don't recall who said it, but it makes sense - if it's going to provide a couple of hundred pounds of downforce, it better be able to handle a couple of hundred pounds of weight.

The question - I haven't seen any comments yet on the new rear springs - did I miss them or are they still pending?

 

[honeybadger]

Two things - one note and one question:

The note - somebody I was running with a couple of years ago at the Ridge lost their splitter (a lovely red Viper as I recall) because the setup wasn't strong enough. The advice they got was that if you can't stand on your splitter, it's too weak. Don't recall who said it, but it makes sense - if it's going to provide a couple of hundred pounds of downforce, it better be able to handle a couple of hundred pounds of weight.

The question - I haven't seen any comments yet on the new rear springs - did I miss them or are they still pending?

Load test is a good one. It’s real solid. I actually recorded some video this afternoon because so many asked.



I’m happy with the results. It’s compliant enough to handle hits and scrapes, but not weak enough to deflect at track speeds (at least not in any of the pics I have). Takes pin pointed pressure at the weakest parts for deflection.


The new rear springs are indeed on. One event so far…tho one of the days was quite wet.

Initial impressions are very positive. That period of time mid-corner where I was waiting for the rear to set is gone. I can get on throttle earlier with better prediction of how the rear will react. All in all, it’s a lot more stable, which allows you to put the peer down faster.

They’re definitely stiff, tho. It’s noticeably bump, even in the pit lane.

 

[shogun32]

Do you have spring rate info? As usual bmr website is utterly useless and devoid of actual technical details.

 

[honeybadger]

Do you have spring rate info? As usual bmr website is utterly useless and devoid of actual technical details.

lots of good info here

https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/ford-performance-gt350-spring-rates.13503/

in short, they’re linear and rated at 980

 

[Lorne34]

Next weekend I am headed to COTA again for another track weekend--this time with Chin Track Days. Have some additional changes we'll trying out:

1. First up is one Soler Engineering's TBs. A local buddy of mine has been using it on the street for with success for the last couple weeks. He's been a huge fan. I'm excited to see how it performs on the track. As always, I'll share candid feedback.



2. @ajhartman sent over some splitter end plates to test out. He's prototyping a set of 3D printed end plates that be bolted onto most aftermarket splitters that will be a lower cost option compared to a CF part. These things weigh practically nothing and are plenty rigid, so this appears to be a great compromise. AJ's data says they should add 45 lbs at 100MPH. I plan to run back to back sessions with/without on the same fresh sticker 3Rs for optimal data gathering (as best as one can do on a HPDE day with traffic).

While I won't have this for next week, I have also ordered a new clutch setup from Spec. It's a full road racing setup with the lightest flywheel and clutch assembly possible. It should pull well over 25lbs out of the current setup, allowing the motor to rev much faster and introduce a bit more durability. I'll share more details when it comes in and I can weigh stuff, take pics, etc.

You need to start a business doing this, so I can bring my 350 over to you when it needs an overhaul... lol..

 

[NoXiDe]

You need to start a business doing this, so I can bring my 350 over to you when it needs an overhaul... lol..

Honestly, I'd fly him out and pay for hoteling just to have a day on how to achieve this. I'd buy all the supplies. Food on the house. haha.

 

[honeybadger]

You need to start a business doing this, so I can bring my 350 over to you when it needs an overhaul... lol..

My work isn't good enough to get paid to do it, but I'm happy to help inspire others to get their hands dirty (or pay others ) and make choices that are backed by proof (i.e. if it doesn't break when I run it, it's probably *fairly* idiot proof).

Honestly, I'd fly him out and pay for hoteling just to have a day on how to achieve this. I'd buy all the supplies. Food on the house. haha.

Just show me around to some good food when I come to GA and we'll call it even!

 

[honeybadger]

well, order papers are signed on the new trailer. We're looking at a completion by May 23--hopefully. Next step will be the engineering blueprints from the factory to confirm placement of some of my custom items (like bracing for tire racks, cabinets, airline track, extra outlets, etc.). I'll share those once I receive them.

Now just waiting for the new Dodge Ram (gasp!). Hopefully that shows up in time.

In other news, I checked the new Cobalt pads + rotors out. After (4) full track days (all at COTA), they're still registering 9.5mm out of the original 16.5mm. So hoping to make that magic 8 days. We'll see how they wear as they get lower.

They also appear to be pretty gentle on the rotors--which was surprising given their bite. With the Raybestos, it wasn't uncommon to see signs of micro cracks by now.

I also added a bit more angle to the front splitter to hopefully add a bit more DF.

All ready to go for COTA this weekend. Look at me 1 day early! ha!

 

[honeybadger]

Awwhhh ya. Starting 2022 off right. A 2:21.07 on old scrubs and freshly paved (green) track. This one felt good. Going to be chasing that sub 2:20 in March.

 

[wingnutt]

Awwhhh ya. Starting 2022 off right. A 2:21.07 on old scrubs and freshly paved (green) track. This one felt good. Going to be chasing that sub 2:20 in March.

…anyone who doesn’t tell you they are jealous, are either;

jealous
(or)
cars-n-coffee VIP’s

 

[JAJ]

Awwhhh ya. Starting 2022 off right. A 2:21.07 on old scrubs and freshly paved (green) track. This one felt good. Going to be chasing that sub 2:20 in March.

Watching your hands on the wheel, it looks like the car is stable and goes where you point it. What do you think of the new rear spring setup?

 

[TX-2019-Black_GT]

Sure thing. Here you go!



New for me. Haven't used it before, but read really great things. Big seller for me was how well it protects against hot spots compared to water + water wetter. If I still heave heat problems, I'll jump up to a bigger radiator.

I'm a little late to your thread, but I'm guessing the waterless coolant is not a good idea. I'll read on and see.....

100% Glycol has a heat capacity only about half that of water (2.6 vs 4.2 in the same units), and worse, a thermal conductivity of 0.27 vs 0.60. So water absorbs almost 2X the heat to raise its temperature by 1 degree, compared to glycol AND it conducts heat over 2X better. This is why 100% water + Water Wetter really works well. The difference in 100% water and 100% Water + Water Wetter is not large, depending on the test, but the Water Wetter is important for anti corrosion additives and pH buffering.

I was doubtful that Water Wetter's surfactant properties really made much difference, but maybe.... So, I just read their Technical White Paper ( https://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/WaterWetter Tech Info.pdf ) this weekend, and there is no arguing the importance of the heat capacity and thermal conductivity benefits of water. I'm about to switch to water + water wetter, and now I finally realize that should have been my 1st step towards cooling issues and limp mode on track! But no, first I installed an oil cooler, then dual fans on the oil cooler, now Huge hood vents, and radiator ducting. I'm nearly 100% sure the water and water wetter is going to take care of the heat for me now!

I'd love to hear your and others' experience!