Holinger sequential trans or build new 5.2 / 5.4

[Voodooo]

I'm thinking the trans would probably be more sensible at this point given the uncertainties surrounding the durability of the motor combined with high power at this point. Definitely would make a big difference to track times, and with the added bonus of taking some work away from the driver, results in less stress which results in more confidence and quicker lap times.

I wonder if Darkane might not have a point considering a custom hood for the car or if you would be interested in the idea? Would allow the SCJ unit and throttle body, and with some mild internals work it might give you a 9000+rpm motor that could make 625-650hp potentially.

Either way, the RD6 isn't going to have any detrimental affect on the car, whereas a higher hp/higher revving motor will put more stress on the rest of the drivetrain as well. RD6 now, 9000+rpms down the road

The points you make are exactly what I'm thinking. As far as hoods go, I'm interested in a tiger hood (GT4) or stock but nothing more, the tiger hood will not add enough clearance either. I'll soon be dropping my K-member to swap out the opg's. I've been thinking of pulling the engine and doing a blue print build and using lighter stronger rods and pistons, better rings and bearings, and ARP studs/bolts. Basically just building a more bullet proof bottom end. But I think going with the trans would be my best bet for now instead of a complete new engine build. With my engine setup the way it currently is, I'm making 536 rwhp. I could try machining / porting my throttle body, or retrofit a larger single bore 100mm. I'll have to do some more thought and measurements.
With my current mods I have dropped nearly 170+ pounds from the car, more would be nice but I still want to keep some comfort features.

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[zombiekiller]

Thinking out loud here, what are you going to use to defeat the current software for temps?

Will the new trans have housing for the sensors etc?

I would go with the engine myself. Just a set of titanium rods with 12.5:1 will probably net you 30-40 hp and torque and allow 9000rpm if the intake can manage.

Why not build a custom hood with a carbon fibre or plexiglass cowl to showcase the SCJ manifold? It looks badass on top of the V.

I would never use Ti Rods. Take a look at the differences between some of the new tool steels that are being used Vs. Ti. Ti internals are for race cars that get tear downs regularly.

The points you make are exactly what I'm thinking. As far as hoods go, I'm interested in a tiger hood (GT4) or stock but nothing more, the tiger hood will not add enough clearance either. I'll soon be dropping my K-member to swap out the opg's. I've been thinking of pulling the engine and doing a blue print build and using lighter stronger rods and pistons, better rings and bearings, and ARP studs/bolts. Basically just building a more bullet proof bottom end. But I think going with the trans would be my best bet for now instead of a complete new engine build. With my engine setup the way it currently is, I'm making 536 rwhp. I could try machining / porting my throttle body, or retrofit a larger single bore 100mm. I'll have to do some more thought and measurements.
With my current mods I have dropped nearly 170+ pounds from the car, more would be nice but I still want to keep some comfort features.

I'd do the transmission for the big pop upgrade. You'd drop a ton of weight and have the funnest tranny this side of singapore.

I'm planning on doing the piston/rod combo that hellion just used, plus the OPG & timing upgrades. There are some lightened pulleys out there that i'll also be adding.

While you might not get to 700whp, I hear there is some room left in the heads for flow. beefier bottom end, lightened pulleys, some head work, maybe some valve springs, get crazy with the balancer, and go electric water pump and you might get kind of close to 600.

Couple that with the weight saving you already have, and that of the trans swap and it might truly feel like that 700hp monster motor at your current weight.

I eventually will go FI, but it is going to be a while. I want a GT1350. :-)

For that sort of power, I'm going to have to write some rather large checks, and I just bought portal boxes for my gwagon. :headbonk:

 

[Voodooo]

I would never use Ti Rods. Take a look at the differences between some of the new tool steels that are being used Vs. Ti. Ti internals are for race cars that get tear downs regularly.





I'd do the transmission for the big pop upgrade. You'd drop a ton of weight and have the funnest tranny this side of singapore.

I'm planning on doing the piston/rod combo that hellion just used, plus the OPG & timing upgrades. There are some lightened pulleys out there that i'll also be adding.

While you might not get to 700whp, I hear there is some room left in the heads for flow. beefier bottom end, lightened pulleys, some head work, maybe some valve springs, get crazy with the balancer, and go electric water pump and you might get kind of close to 600.

Couple that with the weight saving you already have, and that of the trans swap and it might truly feel like that 700hp monster motor at your current weight.

I eventually will go FI, but it is going to be a while. I want a GT1350. :-)

For that sort of power, I'm going to have to write some rather large checks, and I just bought portal boxes for my gwagon. :headbonk:

With my current RWHP figures and a 13.5% drivetrain loss watsons dyno shows I'm around 620 or so Watson says. I think less. But of all the GT350's they dynoed all were with in 5-8 rwhp.
As far as balancer I already have a Romac balancer. That's only 9 pounds.
Running the ARH headers and catless x pipe, and 100 octane race gas Lund tune I'm ok with the power output at this time. But when I decide to build another engine from scratch my original engine will be stored. I'd like to go with a 5.2/5.4 NA 13.0:1+ compression, improved induction and lighter stronger bottom end as I mentioned. But I still feel on a NA setup the trans may give the bigger results. I could drop a few pounds from the car yet since I'm planing on a Braille battery and maybe a switch from Recaro Profi spa Carbon seats to technocraft T3 carbon seats at 6 pounds each. And they cost less than the recaros.
https://tecnocraft.com/products/tecnocraft-t3-dry-carbon-fiber-seat

 

[zombiekiller]

With my current RWHP figures and a 13.5% drivetrain loss watsons dyno shows I'm around 620 or so Watson says. I think less. But of all the GT350's they dynoed all were with in 5-8 rwhp.
As far as balancer I already have a Romac balancer. That's only 9 pounds.
Running the ARH headers and catless x pipe, and 100 octane race gas Lund tune I'm ok with the power output at this time. But when I decide to build another engine from scratch my original engine will be stored. I'd like to go with a 5.2/5.4 NA 13.0:1+ compression, improved induction and lighter stronger bottom end as I mentioned. But I still feel on a NA setup the trans may give the bigger results. I could drop a few pounds from the car yet since I'm planing on a Braille battery and maybe a switch from Recaro Profi spa Carbon seats to technocraft T3 carbon seats at 6 pounds each. And they cost less than the recaros.
https://tecnocraft.com/products/tecnocraft-t3-dry-carbon-fiber-seat

you could also drop 17 lbs with a carbon fiber hood ( using quiklatch pins instead of hinges and gas shocks linky) and a carbon fiber decklid is good for 8-13 lbs depending on if you use quiklatch pins or the OEM hinges,etc.

so if you dropped another 10 lbs with seats, then another 5-8 in the battery, then another 30 with CF hood and decklid, plus the weight savings in the trans ( plus the difference in weight for trans cooler rig), you might get close to having shaved 250-300 lbs off the car in total. that absolutely has a big impact on your power to weight and may negate any requirement for more horsepower.

I'd do the all around car diet and the trans and wait a bit till there is a little more traction on the voodoo as far as speed parts.

I'm not planning on building a second motor. The lump that is in my car will stay in it. these gt350s are not going to appreciate like people think they will. And i'm also not a goofy purist that insists on everything being stock, even when collector car shopping. I prefer the 1500HP frankenbeast.

I look at my personal project ( my gt350), as one of polishing a pretty awesome car, as opposed to doing a full rework. My galaxie projects are full rework projects, completely changing the ride and driving experience, while maintaining a large amount of the aesthetics. The gt350 doesnt need a full personality change.

to each their own. I say you transform the whole car and save the motor build for last. who knows, by then, you might fancy putting money into something different, or someone may have come up with a cooler option that what is possible right now.

 

[montreal ponies]

Since money doesn't seem to be an issue , why not get both and call it a day.:shrug:

But if it were me, i'd go motor since i'd be street driving it most of the time.

Just my 0.2c

 

[WhiteyDog]

Since money doesn't seem to be a concern why not get both and call it a day.:shrug:

But if it were me, i'd go motor since i'd be street driving it most of the time.

Just my 0.2c

Yeah, with all that spare money you got stacked up in the kitchen and living room, surprise the sh*t out of all of us and do both.

 

[Donkey]

Well, I'll zip up my flame suit.

Apparently the fpc creates quite a few issues for the racing engines. So much in fact that the cpc is being used for 2017 in all the turn key race machines. It's easy for Ford to say they wanted it to remain exclusive to the 350.. but reality is there were numerous nvh related issues with the 350rc with trans failures and stuff breaking due to the nvh. The person who communicated this info would have first hand knowledge and zero reason to communicate something that wouldn't be factual.

So this got me to thinking, in most race cars clutches are an upgrade to facilitate quicker shifts/rev's and shed weight overall. A quick look at most road race clutches makes this obvious. I'm not certain at what level the stock clutch would become unreliable at managing torque, lethal slipped theirs into oblivious and blamed the clutch spring and yanked it out. When in reality the 150 shot or whatever coupled with heavy slipping to get the car out of the hole killed it. I think as soon as you get away from stock weight and also the dual mass setup you risk having NVH issues in the driveline and perhaps the engines harmonics itself. So say you chose to go with the rd6, would it work with a stock or modified stock clutch/flywheel assembly?

This carries into the engine build as well. What would need to be modified to carry the car to 700hp? If it makes 700hp where will torque be at, over the stock clutches design limitations etc.? Or would you be looking at a significant hp bump but not so much in the torque department?

Granted you are not likely to subject the engine nor the trans to what a season of IMSA competition would but some of these issues could be something to consider. I'm honestly to the point that if I don't get an R and keep this car long term I may actually do a cpc conversion which would entail a cpc, the cam kit from Ford and some other modifications and an ecu capabale of handling he change in firing order. It may seem silly to some but I'd prefer long term reliability and more power (yes more) than a unique sound, the stock crank would also be preserved if down the road things needed to return to stock.

 

[Voodooo]

you could also drop 17 lbs with a carbon fiber hood ( using quiklatch pins instead of hinges and gas shocks linky) and a carbon fiber decklid is good for 8-13 lbs depending on if you use quiklatch pins or the OEM hinges,etc.

so if you dropped another 10 lbs with seats, then another 5-8 in the battery, then another 30 with CF hood and decklid, plus the weight savings in the trans ( plus the difference in weight for trans cooler rig), you might get close to having shaved 250-300 lbs off the car in total. that absolutely has a big impact on your power to weight and may negate any requirement for more horsepower.

I'd do the all around car diet and the trans and wait a bit till there is a little more traction on the voodoo as far as speed parts.

I'm not planning on building a second motor. The lump that is in my car will stay in it. these gt350s are not going to appreciate like people think they will. And i'm also not a goofy purist that insists on everything being stock, even when collector car shopping. I prefer the 1500HP frankenbeast.

I look at my personal project ( my gt350), as one of polishing a pretty awesome car, as opposed to doing a full rework. My galaxie projects are full rework projects, completely changing the ride and driving experience, while maintaining a large amount of the aesthetics. The gt350 doesnt need a full personality change.

to each their own. I say you transform the whole car and save the motor build for last. who knows, by then, you might fancy putting money into something different, or someone may have come up with a cooler option that what is possible right now.

The seats I'm considering are 6 pounds each. With brackets 10 pounds.
The Braille battery is 6.5 pounds. Stock is 27 pounds. 20.5 pound loss.
I have no hood struts because I can't stand those damn things lol. And if I can get a carbon fiber tiger hood I'll do that. My point for storing the original engine is numbers matching but more so because I'd rather have a spare.

 

[zombiekiller]

Since money doesn't seem to be a concern why not get both and call it a day.:shrug:

But if it were me, i'd go motor since i'd be street driving it most of the time.

Just my 0.2c

that motor would suck on the street once you drove the car on the track once. :lol:

Spinning that high, with that much hp would mean roughly 70 mph in first gear with the factory transmission.

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