Help with my flooded mustang

[IPOGT]

Donno about how that part works, but to program anything it must remain powered up. TBH, I never heard of a harness being okay after being flooded. They almost ALWAYS have issues, if not immediately then some time after. Weird ones too.

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[Scootsmcgreggor]

As people have said new harnesses are advisable.

Key programming for PATS is stored in the PCM. But also other modules on the networks that are changed can also throw a PATS error and disable the Ecu until resolved. BCM, pcm, fcim, and IPC mismatches I believe can all trigger PATS.

Since all your modules were fried in the flood you need IDS to program each new module using your vin. You will not be able to do what you have to do with just Forscan. Usually only one module on a network needs replacing so the standard procedure is to have the new module “inhale” the data from the old one.

Check out some of my posts on this topic, I ran into pats issues when doing my engine swap and eventually figured it out. But your situation is many times more involved.

And yes there are antennas, 4 of them. The main one is in the center console under the rear cup holder. That is where you program your keys.

 

[silbo]

hi guys! after few months of waiting for parts, finally got the parts installed, got the pcm, bcm all programmed, fired the car up and engine is running like before.

now for the problems, when i connected the battery for the first time, the center screen, instrument cluster all lit up, then suddenly the windows rolled down by itself, so i thought maybe because the bcm was not programmed yet, so after programming, everything works except for windows and doorlocks, windows doesnt function at all, no clicking sound from the relay, and the doorlocks wont lock if i press the lock button on the remote or from the door, but i can hear the relay clicking everytime i press the button.

so what could my problem be? is it only programming? thank you for answering

 

[Vlad Soare]

I know it's common knowledge that harnesses will fall apart if the car is flooded.
But why is that?
Aren't those cables isolated? And even if we assume that water might penetrate the rubber isolation (which I don't see how), aren't they made of copper? How will they corrode just by getting a bit wet?
The engine bay is full of electrical cables and connectors that are exposed to water. Many of us even use pressure washers to clean our engines. And yet the connectors and cables under the hood are fine. But as soon as the rest of the cables inside the car get wet, they will dissolve. How come?
I'm not disputing that they will. I just don't understand why.

 

[Cobra Jet]

I know it's common knowledge that harnesses will fall apart if the car is flooded.
But why is that?
Aren't those cables isolated? And even if we assume that water might penetrate the rubber isolation (which I don't see how), aren't they made of copper? How will they corrode just by getting a bit wet?
The engine bay is full of electrical cables and connectors that are exposed to water. Many of us even use pressure washers to clean our engines. And yet the connectors and cables under the hood are fine. But as soon as the rest of the cables inside the car get wet, they will dissolve. How come?
I'm not disputing that they will. I just don't understand why.

Some automotive Manufacturers shifted to wiring harnesses where the outer casings are manufactured with soy as an ingredient. With that said, it's also a major contributor to damages done by rodents.

Here's 1 of many articles to read about it:
https://www.motorverso.com/which-cars-have-soy-based-wiring/

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As far as a flood vehicle - freshwater flooded vehicles don't pose as high of a risk to "salvage" and get back on the road again. A vehicle flooded by salt water or even brackish water has far more damages overall than a freshwater flood car. Sure it sounds silly, as some will go "water is water"... but salt water and brackish water is HIGHLY corrosive due to the salt content. It will corrode any type of metal wiring inside wiring casings within days and weeks of being subjected to salty water. Even bare metal surfaces will corrode at a higher rate if it has been submerged in salt/brackish water as opposed to freshwater.

Some think that just because a vehicle has "sealed" connectors that it prevents any type of moisture or floodwater saturation from occurring.... NOT true. Water seeps past those connectors when SUBMERGED. Wetting wiring harnesses with a hose or s pressure washer in most instances is for a few short blasts here and there - not for an extended amount of time SUBMERGED. Once a vehicle is breached over the rockers where water pools in the floor pans - those body harnesses that run from front to back along the rockers are a liability because they get submerged first.

The other problem with wiring harnesses submerged in floodwaters - think of the end of a connector and the wire being a "wick". It's not so much that maybe the interior wire is not saturated, but the water will wick up into the harnesses, unseen. Salt water wicks quickly and once salt water hits copper, it keeps wicking.

Sure there's ways to "dry out" flooded cars and professionals who deal with that type of salvage renovations - but if it's salt/brackish water - that's the worse type of damage to any module, PCM, TCM, APIM, BCM, dash cluster, display units, HVAC system, LED lighting, etc, etc.

 

[AZlb5.0]

I would not waste money time and effort restoring a car that’s been flooded much less if it was flooded with salt water. You will be chasing issues for years to come if you don’t replace every single electronic device equipment and any and all wiring harnesses.

That’s not to include the corrosive effects that the car will experience. You want a clue as to what will happen if it’s salt water, look at cars up north that only last about 3-4 years before the corrosive effects on the under carriage of cars start showing their head. Any moisture in the air will ultimately activate the corrosive potential of the salt minerals and it will be nothing but time before you start seen the effects of this. And if you try getting rid of the car you will not make the money much less the time you invested on getting that rebuilt tittle.

If it’s your car have it totaled if it’s not your car I would definitely just not bother.

 

[Vlad Soare]

Some automotive Manufacturers shifted to wiring harnesses where the outer casings are manufactured with soy as an ingredient. With that said, it's also a major contributor to damages done by rodents.

Here's 1 of many articles to read about it:
https://www.motorverso.com/which-cars-have-soy-based-wiring/

-

As far as a flood vehicle - freshwater flooded vehicles don't pose as high of a risk to "salvage" and get back on the road again. A vehicle flooded by salt water or even brackish water has far more damages overall than a freshwater flood car. Sure it sounds silly, as some will go "water is water"... but salt water and brackish water is HIGHLY corrosive due to the salt content. It will corrode any type of metal wiring inside wiring casings within days and weeks of being subjected to salty water. Even bare metal surfaces will corrode at a higher rate if it has been submerged in salt/brackish water as opposed to freshwater.

Some think that just because a vehicle has "sealed" connectors that it prevents any type of moisture or floodwater saturation from occurring.... NOT true. Water seeps past those connectors when SUBMERGED. Wetting wiring harnesses with a hose or s pressure washer in most instances is for a few short blasts here and there - not for an extended amount of time SUBMERGED. Once a vehicle is breached over the rockers where water pools in the floor pans - those body harnesses that run from front to back along the rockers are a liability because they get submerged first.

The other problem with wiring harnesses submerged in floodwaters - think of the end of a connector and the wire being a "wick". It's not so much that maybe the interior wire is not saturated, but the water will wick up into the harnesses, unseen. Salt water wicks quickly and once salt water hits copper, it keeps wicking.

Sure there's ways to "dry out" flooded cars and professionals who deal with that type of salvage renovations - but if it's salt/brackish water - that's the worse type of damage to any module, PCM, TCM, APIM, BCM, dash cluster, display units, HVAC system, LED lighting, etc, etc.

Sure, salt water will eat anything. If you live near the coast and your car falls victim to a tsunami, it's toast. That's clear.
But what if it isn't salty? Floods are often caused by heavy rainfall, snowmelt, overflowing rivers... even more so than by tsunamis. Shouldn't the electrics survive just fine in such cases?

 

[Angrey]

Was it flooded by fresh water or sale/brackish water.

If it was fresh water, best of luck. It can be restored.

If it was salt/brackish water. Sell the car. Walk away. The car will have corrosion issues for the rest of it's life. You just can't flush or de-ionize everything enough to keep the gremlins from coming back throughout the entire electrical system. You'll deal with shorts and problems till the car finds the scrap yard.

 

[silbo]

hi guys! finally got it to run! it was just the shifter not put in P, everything starts, car is running good, hopefully no new problem will come out. thank you for all the help guys!

 

[silbo]

hi guys, i thought everything was fine, so i was putting the interior plastic back on, when i go to start the car, car wouldn't start, no crank, nothing, then i scan my car and these codes pop out, what should i be looking at? mostly are lost communication with abs, power steering

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

Those U codes are generally either when two modules lose communication or when the an unexpected response/communication between modules exists. Such as modules with mismatched programmed vin’s or wiring issues. Might be firmware programming mismatches too.

However those codes would not prevent it from starting. It’s something else. Check fuel pump and PATS PID’s and see what they look like. Look for pats_enabl PID in the pcm. If it’s ENABLED then PATS is triggered and interrupting the start sequence. It will also prevent the fuel pump from running.

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