Help reaching 900rwhp - what to add next

[aedfam]

Hey guys,

I am running a 17 mustang (manual) with a Gen 5 3.0 Whipple (stage 2) on stock 6 rib as well as pump E85. I am looking to be in the ball park of 900+ Rwhp and was wondering if I could get your input on what to do next. I have the supporting mods (axles, driveshaft, got new tranny on way, oil pump gears, wheels)

I was thinking of going with the Whipple 10 rib kit with the 20OD and 3.6 pulley. I was told this should get me close if not there. This option however would be another 1800$...

Another option someone mentioned is to buy a smaller pulley from Griptec like a 3.5/3.375 which would be $200 or so value compared to the $1800 and saves me from any trouble of installing a 20OD.

Can anyone with any personal knowledge enlighten me on which route is best to take. I was going to pull the trigger on the 10 rib kit and the 20OD but put it on hold until I get more feedback as I also read there some issues that come with the 20OD(can anyone explain of any issues that can come from having the 20OD?).

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[vtknight]

Hey guys,

I am running a 17 mustang (manual) with a Gen 5 3.0 Whipple (stage 2) on stock 6 rib as well as pump E85. I am looking to be in the ball park of 900+ Rwhp and was wondering if I could get your input on what to do next. I have the supporting mods (axles, driveshaft, got new tranny on way, oil pump gears, wheels)

I was thinking of going with the Whipple 10 rib kit with the 20OD and 3.6 pulley. I was told this should get me close if not there. This option however would be another 1800$...

Another option someone mentioned is to buy a smaller pulley from Griptec like a 3.5/3.375 which would be $200 or so value compared to the $1800 and saves me from any trouble of installing a 20OD.

Can anyone with any personal knowledge enlighten me on which route is best to take. I was going to pull the trigger on the 10 rib kit and the 20OD but put it on hold until I get more feedback as I also read there some issues that come with the 20OD(can anyone explain of any issues that can come from having the 20OD?).

Lethal has a mod list for their dyno results and 1/4 ET/MPH trap. I unfortunately don't have that link handy - but it is in their threads if you search. This is their complete today mod list:
https://www.lethalperformance.com/info/project-goldmember#modlist
I started with that. Some research got me to my mod list - which is the Gen V Stage 2 with larger intercooler and 10 rib/20OD on E85 with a fore triple pump (you will need the fuel running E85), OPG/Crank of course done - 3.15 gears, all the supporting mods you mentioned (QA1 carbon driveshaft, DSS half shafts), +headers/exhaust, plus the Circle D 258mm/Mcleod clutch packs for me - I don't think the standard MT82 will last you too long at that power level - definitely not your clutch - so likely a triple disc at least. For a similar power level manual build I had an RPS triple carbon and despite some of complaints of it being "heavy" - it was like a Timex - took a licking and kept on ticking. I added a full BMR/Viking suspension and UPR diff lock solution to spare my diff ears. Obviously wheel and tire setup - Weld Alumasters in my case - I have a PP1 19 GT so it is 17 rears and 18 front on ET Street R's. Tune (which is key of course) by Lund using Ngauge. I also have a stage IV PNR cooler. The 900+ whp zone which is what I am looking for - is about where you are pushing the Coyote in my research. Some of the guys - like Lethal - are likely closer to a 1000+ whp - but a stock motor is a crap shoot after that. I fully intend to build the motor if I enjoy the setup the way I think I will for safety if the engine makes it through the season - which it seems it has a good shot to do.

Good luck!

 

[aedfam]

Lethal has a mod list for their dyno results and 1/4 ET/MPH trap. I unfortunately don't have that link handy - but it is in their threads if you search. This is their complete today mod list:
https://www.lethalperformance.com/info/project-goldmember#modlist
I started with that. Some research got me to my mod list - which is the Gen V Stage 2 with larger intercooler and 10 rib/20OD on E85 with a fore triple pump (you will need the fuel running E85), OPG/Crank of course done - 3.15 gears, all the supporting mods you mentioned (QA1 carbon driveshaft, DSS half shafts), +headers/exhaust, plus the Circle D 258mm/Mcleod clutch packs for me - I don't think the standard MT82 will last you too long at that power level - definitely not your clutch - so likely a triple disc at least. For a similar power level manual build I had an RPS triple carbon and despite some of complaints of it being "heavy" - it was like a Timex - took a licking and kept on ticking. I added a full BMR/Viking suspension and UPR diff lock solution to spare my diff ears. Obviously wheel and tire setup - Weld Alumasters in my case - I have a PP1 19 GT so it is 17 rears and 18 front on ET Street R's. Tune (which is key of course) by Lund using Ngauge. I also have a stage IV PNR cooler. The 900+ whp zone which is what I am looking for - is about where you are pushing the Coyote in my research. Some of the guys - like Lethal - are likely closer to a 1000+ whp - but a stock motor is a crap shoot after that. I fully intend to build the motor if I enjoy the setup the way I think I will for safety if the engine makes it through the season - which it seems it has a good shot to do.

Good luck!

I had seen their mod list. I actually have a screenshot of it I believe. I seen quite a few guys but my thing was all of them are on auto 10r80 or 6r80. So I wasn't sure if the same mods they had would give me the same power on a manual...

Currently I have return style fuel system running E, the bmr wheel stopper kit, half shaft, driveshaft, cat deletes with cut outs before resonator.

I will be getting new clutch soon tho and installing when my tranny comes. I opted for Ben calimer stage 3 as to avoid having to get new driveshaft, bell housing, etc (plus I won't be seeing much track time). And down the line I will go with a built RPG short block along with some other goodies.

So on your manual what size pulley did you have? Did you have the same blower the stage 2 gen 5? Were you able to get it dynod? I'm curious as to what it made.

 

[Cory S]

What boost are you seeing now, and is the belt slipping? Grip-Tec pullies are great.... You can "usually" make it to around 16-16.5psi on a 6-rib Grip-tec before slip.

 

[Jackson1320]

You are going to always have problems with the 6rib trying to make 900 no matter what pulley you use

 

[Cory S]

You are going to always have problems with the 6rib trying to make 900 no matter what pulley you use

Agreed. It has been done though! I'm doing 780 through a 6R80 with a giant 82mm pulley on a 6-rib, and I'm sure I could drop it down a little more without any slip.

 

[Jackson1320]

Agreed. It has been done though! I'm doing 780 through a 6R80 with a giant 82mm pulley on a 6-rib, and I'm sure I could drop it down a little more without any slip.

I’m not saying it can’t be done just it’s going to be a problem somehow someway somewhere

 

[vtknight]

I’m not saying it can’t be done just it’s going to be a problem somehow someway somewhere

Agreed - 10 rib is the way to go.

 

[vtknight]

I had seen their mod list. I actually have a screenshot of it I believe. I seen quite a few guys but my thing was all of them are on auto 10r80 or 6r80. So I wasn't sure if the same mods they had would give me the same power on a manual...

Currently I have return style fuel system running E, the bmr wheel stopper kit, half shaft, driveshaft, cat deletes with cut outs before resonator.

I will be getting new clutch soon tho and installing when my tranny comes. I opted for Ben calimer stage 3 as to avoid having to get new driveshaft, bell housing, etc (plus I won't be seeing much track time). And down the line I will go with a built RPG short block along with some other goodies.

So on your manual what size pulley did you have? Did you have the same blower the stage 2 gen 5? Were you able to get it dynod? I'm curious as to what it made.

I would ensure your fuel system is adequate - pumps etc., as E85 requires a ton of fuel - E98 even more (it is about 40% and 60% more if memory serves). I cannot speak for the MT82 changes - or Mustang clutch options because it was not a Mustang setup (F1A PC C7Z). Car made 880/780 with room. The person who has it now added PI and it is over 900. Headers and most other "flow" mods will likely be necessary to hit 900 whp - I don't think you can really skip anything and hope to just throw boost at it with the engine being stock (OPG and crank sprocket aside). 10 rib will be essential or as the other poster stated - you will always be having to struggle against the 6 rib. My point is - 900 whp stock motor is pretty much max effort for the Gen V - so you will need most if not all of the mods to make this happen. Cooling too is something to look at - larger IC and/or cooler.

 

[engineermike]

This guy made 900+ at 23 psi on a 2.85” 6-rib griptec.

https://www.f150forum.com/f123/i-wanna-go-fast-475839/index12/

 

[S550AC11]

Ask AED, I know they did a Gen5 stage 2 with intake cams and I can't remember if it had a 3.375 or 3.50 pulley. It made 908 SAE at around 7700. Their recommendation to me was keep it under 850 on the stock motor. Mainly because of ring gaps and head studs for reliability.

 

[vtknight]

For what it is worth - as per a few on here - the fact something can be done - doesn't mean it is necessarily a good idea lol. As I said above - it is possible to make the 900 with a 6 rib - and - obviously now - making 900 whp is confirmed on a 6 rib setup by a few on here. That said - I use "pot odds" when I do my builds in regards to whether it is worth it to spend additional coin. It is 1800 for the 10 rib? Okay - compared to what I have put into my build (to meet my goals) - how much additional spend is this as a percentage of the total I already spent? If the new add is more than 20% of what I have spent - I will usually put in the time, effort and testing/research sweat needed to work around it. If it is under that - I would rather have the car overengineered and built right - then "save" that extra money as any additional time that may need to be given up due to said testing, and not making my goals - and obviously anything potentially breaking on the car and costing me more because I skimped on something - in my experience has ended up costing more. Because you are approaching the maximum power a non-built Coyote can take consistently - it is more difficult to remove supporting mods from the build IMHO. It can be done - but should it? This is my experience; wait until you can do it right - there is no negative to that. We all have our own budgets - and expenses. That said - people risk their full invested amount (and their engine, trans, clutch etc.) by holding back on certain parts to hit their target right away. I have almost never seen in real life - someone try to get around a build and it lasting very long (despite what those people tell others). Longevity vs. one hit wonders. A simple way around this is simply to lower your WHP goals. Maybe 825 or 850. To be clear I am not saying you are doing this - just that this is how I have looked at modding.

 

[SolarFlare]

I think you should try with the 6rib before spending the $1800 for 10rib. Are overdrive cranks not sold on 6rib?? IDK. If not id still try. You got the blower, make sure you get a nice exhaust, 1050X, good Fore fuel system and then the right griptec pulley will get you there.

 

[aedfam]

For what it is worth - as per a few on here - the fact something can be done - doesn't mean it is necessarily a good idea lol. As I said above - it is possible to make the 900 with a 6 rib - and - obviously now - making 900 whp is confirmed on a 6 rib setup by a few on here. That said - I use "pot odds" when I do my builds in regards to whether it is worth it to spend additional coin. It is 1800 for the 10 rib? Okay - compared to what I have put into my build (to meet my goals) - how much additional spend is this as a percentage of the total I already spent? If the new add is more than 20% of what I have spent - I will usually put in the time, effort and testing/research sweat needed to work around it. If it is under that - I would rather have the car overengineered and built right - then "save" that extra money as any additional time that may need to be given up due to said testing, and not making my goals - and obviously anything potentially breaking on the car and costing me more because I skimped on something - in my experience has ended up costing more. Because you are approaching the maximum power a non-built Coyote can take consistently - it is more difficult to remove supporting mods from the build IMHO. It can be done - but should it? This is my experience; wait until you can do it right - there is no negative to that. We all have our own budgets - and expenses. That said - people risk their full invested amount (and their engine, trans, clutch etc.) by holding back on certain parts to hit their target right away. I have almost never seen in real life - someone try to get around a build and it lasting very long (despite what those people tell others). Longevity vs. one hit wonders. A simple way around this is simply to lower your WHP goals. Maybe 825 or 850. To be clear I am not saying you are doing this - just that this is how I have looked at modding.

I understand what you mean. This is something I see some doing as well. Me personally tho I wasn't asking if it's better to go cheaper even tho thats what it may have seem like. I already pulled the trigger on the 10 rib with the 20% based on I would feel more comfortable with the 10 rib with the added power and also due to recommendation by my tuner. My question was if the 10 rib was needed as some say the griptech is just as good and see little to no slip. So I was trying to see if anyone had input on that.. as I'm also not one to just simply threw thousands on a part that isn't the only option. Kind of when someone says to spend the $2k on headers but it's been proven $700-1200 are just as good so at that point I think people are spending more on the name instead of the product. (I know someone who bought $2k kooks and it still failed him, kooks replaced it free of charge but when your spending $2k I'm assuming it failing is exactly what you are trying to avoid).

None the less you are right when modding, skipping steps isn't the way to go. My car is currently set for the RWHP is making as I bought everything separately but had it installed at the same time. But now I'm looking to make more power and will be adding more supporting mods. The tranny is on its way, which is really the only thing I need and can get asap. The engine will have to wait as RPG is completely backlogged till July when I spoke to them last. I will be getting a built shortblock from them that's rated for 1200HP. But according to my tuner all the other mods I have are good to withstand the power I will make with the addition of the 20%OD and new pulley, especially since my car isn't a daily.

 

[vtknight]

I understand what you mean. This is something I see some doing as well. Me personally tho I wasn't asking if it's better to go cheaper even tho thats what it may have seem like. I already pulled the trigger on the 10 rib with the 20% based on I would feel more comfortable comfortable with the 10 rib with the added power and also due to recommendation by my tuner. My question was if the 10 rib was needed as some say the griptech is just as good and see little to no slip. So I was trying to see if anyone had input on that.. as I'm also not one to just simply threw thousands on a part that isn't the only option. Kind of when someone says to speed the $2k on headers but it's been proven $700-1200 are just as good so at that point I think people are spending more on the name instead of the product. (I know someone who bought $2k kooks and it still failed him, kooks replaced it free of charge but when your spending $2k I'm assuming it failing is exactly what you are trying to avoid).

None the less you are right when modding, skipping steps isn't the way to go. My car is currently set for the RWHP is making as I bought everything separately but had it installed at the same time. But now I'm looking to make more power and will be adding more supporting mods. The tranny is on its way, which is really the only thing I need and can get asap. The engine will have to wait as RPG is completely backlogged till July when I spoke to them last. I will be getting a built shortblock from them that's rated for 1200HP. But according to my tuner all the other mods I have are good to withstand the power I will make with the addition of the 20%OD and new pulley, especially since my car isn't a daily.

Well - said - and again no finger pointing or hidden messages intended. I agree - wasting money is not a good thing also lol. I have just seen so many builds fail because of trying to "walk the line" and my experience there has been to err on the side of overengineering (without spending like a drunken sailor lol).

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