Help needed with 2020 Mustang GT setup.

[Biggness]

I have a 2020 Mustang GT with the bare bones factory radio and speakers. I am wanting to replace and upgrade with the following:

Fronts: Focal RSE 165 Component set (will consider any other recommendations for components)

Rears: Remove factory speakers, leave holes empty for bass fill, and some sound treatment for the baffle.

Sub: Crossfire C3-V3-D2 10" sub in a ported and tuned box, rear facing.

Amp: JL XD700 5 Channel amp to drive it all.

Stereo: Factory

My question is; What else do I need? I am really rusty with Car A/V, and not sure what all additional stuff I need to complete the install. Line convertors coming off the factory head unit? Anti- noise cancelation mics? Wiring harnesses? Power wire gauge? DSP? And anything else I may be missing.

Thanks in advance for any, and all help!

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[Evolvd]

The pinned posts have answers to all these questions plus a number of the most recent threads. The only difference between base and B&O is how you integrate. You don’t need an LOC and in fact that option is least desirable.

 

[Evolvd]

That being said the products you have are good. Check out Sounds Good Stereo for door baffles. The rear deck doesn’t need a ton of deadening, it’s already buttressed with multiple ribs. The trunk light housing vibrates in there so run some JK or Tessa tape around the hole.
If you want maximum perceived bass take the parcel shelf trim out and punch the carpet out of the holes. The stock carpet is over 1/8” thick and chokes off the sound. A 5/16” leather punch is perfectly sized for those holes. You only need to punch the ones that go over the rear speakers, the ones around the rear of the panel don’t expose any holes in the shelf.

You can run 4 gauge with an 80 amp fuse on that power level. For sound deadening you really only need to do the trunk for what you have planned as a whole. Something like this:

No need to go crazy on deadening. You don’t even need as much coverage as I have in this pic.
I assume you’re running the fronts off a passive crossover? If so you don’t need a DSP. Could it help? Absolutely but not at all required for what you’re planning.

 

[Cathul]

Highly recommend a DSP and preferably an auto calibrating one with mic either as standalone or integrated in amp like Kicker Key 200.4 for channel and Key 500.1 mono for sub.

Plug and play with FRN 03 harness no messing with fuse box or routing power from battery plus compact will easily fit in drivers footwell kick panel area.

Herz MPK165.3P sound amazing.

The plug and play plus auto calibration will save you a world of aggravation and a pro installer can do it all in 3 hrs max.

What if he doesn't like the housecurve that the Kicker Key is using?

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