Removing factory amp help needed

[Benwilj]

I have the shaker 9 speaker setup currently and I want to upgrade all my speakers in the car with hertz Millie's. Problem is that the factory amp isn't powerful enough so new amps are needed.

I'm interested in answers about the signal that's coming out of the sync 3 hu.
I've read that it's a rca signal since I have a factory amp but...........
Is it completely clean or is the bass rolled off at higher volumes?
Has anyone tested the signal for quality and what were the findings?

Reason im asking is I don't know if I really need to buy a $600 dsp to do clean up?

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[rocknstang]

Here is a video where a guy scoped the output. Now this is after setting the line level EQ bit using Forscan (see the sticky in this and the DIY sub forums for more info).

 

[ahl395]

You can get a harness from [MENTION=28081]HextallS550[/MENTION] to convert the signal from the head unit to RCA.

I have these, works great and gives a clean unclipped signal all the way up to 35. Apparently there is bass rolloff at high volumes but honestly I cannot tell. I changed nothing with the factory processing but I did use a Helix DSP Pro with my setup.

 

[rocknstang]

I have HextallS550's harnesses as well and they work great. If you remove the factory amp his harnesses will make connections to the speakers much easier as well.

 

[Benwilj]

Great information guys, thanks for the help.
I spoke with audio control today about options for my build and he posed an interesting question I never thought of. He asked if I was sure I wouldn't lose any vehicle functionally by removing the dsp and amp. He claims today's cars are so interconnected that he's seen vehicles not even start with items physically removed. Obviously I know the starting isn't an issue but is there anything else I may lose. Ie. Speaker phone, turn by turn via android auto, door chimes.

My build btw is Hertz millie 3way components up front, two ways in rear and sub in trunk. All powered by three separate Rockford compact power amps at 200watts/channel for front and rear and 400 for sub. The reason I called audio control is how to split the rca's to three different amps.looks like I'm also in the market for a dm-810 dsp. I may not do the amp though depending on how the Millie's sound and if it's worth it. I've been experiencing dash issues with my current setup which is just two Alpine type r's and one alpine 1200 watt monoblock. I'm downgrading my stereo power mainly for that reason. Not sure if the 6g can handle 100 amp draw on the system and I see no HO alternators on the market for a 15 and up

 

[ahl395]

Great information guys, thanks for the help.
I spoke with audio control today about options for my build and he posed an interesting question I never thought of. He asked if I was sure I wouldn't lose any vehicle functionally by removing the dsp and amp. He claims today's cars are so interconnected that he's seen vehicles not even start with items physically removed. Obviously I know the starting isn't an issue but is there anything else I may lose. Ie. Speaker phone, turn by turn via android auto, door chimes.

My build btw is Hertz millie 3way components up front, two ways in rear and sub in trunk. All powered by three separate Rockford compact power amps at 200watts/channel for front and rear and 400 for sub. The reason I called audio control is how to split the rca's to three different amps.looks like I'm also in the market for a dm-810 dsp. I may not do the amp though depending on how the Millie's sound and if it's worth it. I've been experiencing dash issues with my current setup which is just two Alpine type r's and one alpine 1200 watt monoblock. I'm downgrading my stereo power mainly for that reason. Not sure if the 6g can handle 100 amp draw on the system and I see no HO alternators on the market for a 15 and up

You will not lose any functionality bypassing the factory amp. By the way, no reason to actually remove it, just bypass it with Hextall's harness. The head unit controls everything and the Sync/Android Auto/etc sounds will be put through to your aftermarket speakers no problem. Door chimes arent affected.

Check out the last page or two of my build log (going to post a dedicated thread soon too). I have almost the same setup as you are doing (very nice btw). To get the signals I used a 10 channel Helix DSP Pro. It was able to separate the incoming signal to each output and gave me exactly what I needed, adjustable EQ, crossovers, etc. The time alignment made such a bit difference also. You can get a brand new DSP Pro on eBay for $720.

Here is a screenshot of my DSP settings showing how I have my inputs/outputs routed. I also used only the front signals for the sub as that should counter the "rear bass rolloff" thing.



I'm running a Rockford T600-4 for the front and rear woofers (~140W) and a P400X4 for the mids and tweeters (~80W). Sounds excellent.

Also, factory our alternators are pretty stout. Premium models have a 200A, non premium have 175A. Not bad for a factory alternator. If you're in the market for an HO the only company that I found will make one is Singer Alternators. I have a 380A 3 Phase from him and it's been outstanding.

 

[z06psi]

Wow. I did not know I had a 200A alternator. Good to know.

 

[z06psi]

Hextall is making me some wires also. The dude is just good.

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