Headers Install

[Ultrakla$$ic]

So almost done with the divers side but one of the bolts is cross threading and the very beginning. I don't know if I should leave it out or continue to force it. It will go in forcibly.

Can you get a tap in it to chase the threads??? Is it the second from the last nearest the firewall??

This one??

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[KilluminatiDre]

Can you get a tap in it to chase the threads??? Is it the second from the last nearest the firewall??

This one??

On drivers side bottom row closest to firewall. I don't have a tap and die kit. The bolt is very accessible though even with the engine brace in. I was thinking of taking it to the mustang shop here.

 

[DarkSubRosa]

So almost done with the divers side but one of the bolts is cross threading and the very beginning. I don't know if I should leave it out or continue to force it. It will go in forcibly.

Did you run the OEM studs in and out to clean out the threads? There is a lot of debris from the metal sheering off on the OE studs/head from the factory that makes running a new bolt in sort of a pain if you don't do this.

 

[KilluminatiDre]

Did you run the OEM studs in and out to clean out the threads? There is a lot of debris from the metal sheering off on the OE studs/head from the factory that makes running a new bolt in sort of a pain if you don't do this.

We tried to re-install the oem stud but could not do so because it was too long to fit with the header. At that point we were already 12 hours in and the other 7 bolts were started.

 

[DarkSubRosa]

We tried to re-install the oem stud but could not do so because it was too long to fit with the header. At that point we were already 12 hours in and the other 7 bolts were started.

You're supposed to do it when you're taking the OEM studs out after the OEM manifold has been removed. Clean up all the holes for it before installing the after markets headers so that all your bolts thread in smooth. Once you already have the headers in you're sorta hosed. You might try barely threading the bolt in and back out to see if that helps. If not you're going to have to pull the header back out and run a tap through it.

 

[Ultrakla$$ic]

Yea, I wouldn't force anything. I'd remove, clean threads up and replace before I jacked up the threads anymore. Harbor Freight has tap and die sets cheap and have pulled me out of jams numerous times.

 

[KilluminatiDre]

I decided not to force it. I'll have a shop look at the threads, hopefully they can tap them. Its's only the first two threads. This bolt in particular seems to be the only one that you can get to with everything still installed, there is nothing blocking it so hopefully an easy fix.

 

[Supa LA]

Hearing minor mishaps like this that turn out to be a massive PITA make me want to drop the car off at a shop for installation lol.

 

[Schu]

is there an ARP stud kit for the Coyote?

 

[Ramen]

Welp I learned a lot today. I got the passenger header on, but I left the top rear bolt in instead of the top front. Guess I got turned around and getting tired made me slip up - so now it's gotta come back off lol!

Removing the battery box, strut bar, and battery shield plate is mandatory. I don't know how anyone would be able to get to the top header bolts without doing that. Unfortunately I spent 45 minutes with a ratcheting wrench going back and forth 3 clicks at a time before I realized it.

 

[DarkSubRosa]

is there an ARP stud kit for the Coyote?

There's not a specific kit, but I have ARP 12 point's that I used. There was a thread on it somewhere that I posted all the information in. You even posted in that thread. :lol:

It was this part # ARP 773-1002

 

[Ultrakla$$ic]

There's not a specific kit, but I have ARP 12 point's that I used. There was a thread on it somewhere that I posted all the information in. You even posted in that thread. :lol:

It was this part # ARP 773-1002

I wish I would have used those. I got everyone of the bolts included with the SP headers STOOOOOOPID tight, but it wasn't easy because for some reason the idiot that designed them tapered the top of the head which could lead to easy stripping of the bolt head.:headbonk:

 

[svtfever]

I watched LMR install video and they didn't even remove the studs. is it totally necessary to even remove them?

 

[DarkSubRosa]

I wish I would have used those. I got everyone of the bolts included with the SP headers STOOOOOOPID tight, but it wasn't easy because for some reason the idiot that designed them tapered the top of the head which could lead to easy stripping of the bolt head.:headbonk:

That's exactly why I bought the ARP 12 pts so that I could get my wrench on there without worry of it slipping and stripping the bolts. The SW headers came with those same tapered bolts and I noped out of those considering the amount of space there is in there. I was able to put the hulk on those fockers. I had one bolt that I didn't clean out enough and the last couple threads were a pain. If I ever take them off for any reason I'll have to go back in and probably tap that one to clean it up.

 

[KilluminatiDre]

I watched LMR install video and they didn't even remove the studs. is it totally necessary to even remove them?

I think it might depend on the headers. I have kooks and on the passenger side I only needed to remove 2 of the factory studs to get the headers in and I was able to re-install one of those once the header was on. For the drivers side half of the oem studs had to come out.

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