Headers - how are you guys pulling this off?

[ahl395]

LOL!!! Thats an awesome idea. Any idea what the power gains with just that mod is and the cost of doing doing the install?

Cost of install is usually only $150-300. That plus the low cost of the delete pipes themselves makes them a fraction of the cost of headers+install. Supposedly only 5-10whp less than full headers. Worth the tradeoff to me I'm very happy with them, but long tubes still look pretty awesome.

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[jabrax]

If you go with catted headers you shouldnt have a problem.

If you go with catless you can have them modified to bolt the cats back in/out easily. Personally I stuck with stock headers and did MAK cat delete pipes. I had the shop that installed them install it in such a way that its only 4 bolts on each side and I can bolt my factory cats right back in place to pass inspection. The same idea could be done to a set of real headers also.

^^^
I went this route. Another plus is if you need a break from the noise and occasional smell at stop lights (catless). Just bolt them back in.

I swear the car seems much louder in the winter :headbonk:

 

[valentinoamoro]

Cost of install is usually only $150-300. That plus the low cost of the delete pipes themselves makes them a fraction of the cost of headers+install. Supposedly only 5-10whp less than full headers. Worth the tradeoff to me I'm very happy with them, but long tubes still look pretty awesome.

I am going back and forth on an email with John from Lund tuning right now - and have raised the cat delete as an option to see how he tunes for that. If he gives the thumbs up, I have leaning towards Lund + PMAS + CAT DELETE. Cat Delete is the best of both worlds it seems - much much cheaper, guaranteed emissions pass with a simple bolt back on that I can do in a few mins, great power gains (subject to Lund confirming).

 

[ahl395]

I am going back and forth on an email with John from Lund tuning right now - and have raised the cat delete as an option to see how he tunes for that. If he gives the thumbs up, I have leaning towards Lund + PMAS + CAT DELETE.

When Lund tuned mine nothing had to be changed in the tune. Just rear O2s turned off so no CEL.

 

[valentinoamoro]

When Lund tuned mine nothing had to be changed in the tune. Just rear O2s turned off so no CEL.

LOL. They just replied saying this as well.

 

[valentinoamoro]

Quick update. I've decided to go with a Lund tune, Mak cat deletes and PMAS intake. I'll do the tune and intake first then come back for the delete in the summer for race season. I plan on running cats in the winter.

Much appreciate all the help here. I'm hoping for a 20-30 Whp increase over stock with 93 octane gas. LMK if I'm smoking crack!

 

[WhiteyDog]

I love my Lund tune. You will be happy with them.

 

[AJ ROJO]

Quick update. I've decided to go with a Lund tune, Mak cat deletes and PMAS intake. I'll do the tune and intake first then come back for the delete in the summer for race season. I plan on running cats in the winter.

Much appreciate all the help here. I'm hoping for a 20-30 Whp increase over stock with 93 octane gas. LMK if I'm smoking crack!

You do realize one of your cats is part of the exhaust manifold right?

You have to cut it off and then weld a flange on the manifold for the mak delete to bolt to. If you plan to reuse your cats you will have to have a flange welded on and fit to the driver side exhaust manifold.

I'd just hate for you to spend money assuming it was a "bolt on" when there is more then just wrench turning involved.

 

[valentinoamoro]

You do realize one of your cats is part of the exhaust manifold right?

You have to cut it off and then weld a flange on the manifold for the mak delete to bolt to. If you plan to reuse your cats you will have to have a flange welded on and fit to the driver side exhaust manifold.

I'd just hate for you to spend money assuming it was a "bolt on" when there is more then just wrench turning involved.

Correct. I saw the video and directions. It's different from the S197s in the driver side. That said, once the flanges are welded it can become a bolt on after that. Additionally, if the fit is good we are looking at 2-3 hours of labor to do the cut, weld and bolt on. I do a lot of installs myself but have never welded and suck at using a sawzall so will leave this to a shop.

 

[AJ ROJO]

Correct. I saw the video and directions. It's different from the S197s in the driver side. That said, once the flanges are welded it can become a bolt on after that. Additionally, if the fit is good we are looking at 2-3 hours of labor to do the cut, weld and bolt on. I do a lot of installs myself but have never welded and suck at using a sawzall so will leave this to a shop.

Good deal, I had a friend that jumped into the cat delete not knowing what was involved...i think he went bald from pulling his hair out in frustration over it! Lol

Like I said, just didn't want you to find yourself in that position.:cheers:

 

[valentinoamoro]

Good deal, I had a friend that jumped into the cat delete not knowing what was involved...i think he went bald from pulling his hair out in frustration over it! Lol

Like I said, just didn't want you to find yourself in that position.:cheers:

Yup. I've been modding my rides for over a decade now and I learnt a few things along the way.
1) Measure twice, cut once
2) Talk to people - there's a chance someone has done what you are trying to do. The only time that wasnt the case in 10 plus years was when I lifted my RAV 4 AWD Hybrid. No one had ever done that it seemed and the company that I bought the kit from were biting their nails to see the result (and then updated their web page after it was a success including my model year and onwards!)
3) Learn to cut through the subjective placebo 'confirmation bias' that a lot of people have about their mods. Same thing with vendors advertising massive gains. The Gibson catback on 2015 GT example a couple of years ago when they were advertising massive gains is an example.
4) Dont necessarily cheap out on labor. A low hourly rate could cost a lot more if the shop isnt good. I use Brads Custom Auto in Seattle. Top notch.
5) OEM parts are OEM parts. A ton of aftermarket parts dont fit right and have issues. Some vendors (ex: Steeda) are better than others.

 

[z06psi]

Spoke to a few folks and it seems there are massive gains to be had with headers and a tune (I'm hearing 440-450 wHP on 93?).

How are you all getting away with this - in WA state, after the first 6 years of ownership there are inspections every two years. I dont recall them checking the tail pipes (its been awhile since I had a 6 yr old car). In my experience though you can smell headerless cars.

Are high flow cats the solution? - I'm also hearing there is enough variance between high flow cats of the same model/make that one could pass and another would fail.

I believe the tune can mask some of the codes, but I assume the DMV guys are not idiots, esp if you show up in a loud ass Mustang. They must have other tools including tailpipe sensors and other informal inspections?

I've had the car for 3 years and am itching to get another 30+ whp out of it :-). Want to do my homework before taking the plunge.

How about not living in a communist state? Hawaii is shit hole communist state.

 

[ob1]

I went with Kooks with cats and Lund tune.
It cost me $1000 for the install from a speed shop and in 3 years no problems.
The car is impressive!
Maryland Speed had the best price at the time.

 

[Fredboy]

There is a way to tune around being catless and make the ECU believe the cats are still on; I've seen threads on the HPtuners forum about people doing it. No reputable tuner will do that though, in fear of being hunted down by the EPA.

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