Header Fitment.

[dubster99]

I'm doing this right now. Just let the H-pipe droop down and you can keep the rest intact. So far I've reused all the studs on the driver's side.

I'll be interested to see if you can get the pass side on all the studs...that's what I've heard is impossible. I would like to reuse the studs as well if possible.

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[KilluminatiDre]

I'll be interested to see if you can get the pass side on all the studs...that's what I've heard is impossible. I would like to reuse the studs as well if possible.

That would be amazing, seems like that would save so much time.

 

[dubster99]

I also read somewhere that the motor mount bracket that goes on the block has to be reinstalled before the LT's go on....is that the case?

 

[GTBOB]

I also read somewhere that the motor mount bracket that goes on the block has to be reinstalled before the LT's go on....is that the case?

Yes, you have to remove the bracket on both sides. Do it one at a time though or it may be difficult aligning them back up. I'm going to start on the passenger side this morning. I'm almost thinking reusing the studs might be more a pain because at least on mine, the nuts begin to get tight right away. So I have wrench each one to the flange mating surface. If you take studs out, then you can at least finger-tighten the bolt all the way and then crank them with a tool...saving a lot of time.

 

[dubster99]

I know about removing the bracket....but someone said you have to reinstall them BEFORE you hang the new header. That just seemed odd to me.

 

[sldghmr]

I know about removing the bracket....but someone said you have to reinstall them BEFORE you hang the new header. That just seemed odd to me.

Nope...after, definitely after

 

[daniel_94kg]

Nope...after, definitely after

Definitely

 

[GTBOB]

Ok...got these things on today:cheers:
*no lift*

Keeping the studs on the passenger side is a no-go. The header can't make it up and over. It gets sandwiched between the tips of the studs and frame rail. I did keep 2 studs in on top to hold the gasket in place. 1 up by the a/c compressor and 1 by the battery box.

I DID NOT REMOVE the motor mounts on either side (heard Ford loves the thread locker on those bolts). Didn't see any reason to, plenty of room keeping them there. I did remove the brackets on each side of the block...that's a must. Install the header and put the bracket back on after.

I DID NOT REMOVE the battery box. All upper flange fasteners on the passenger side header were tightened from up top (ratchet wrench). Biggest help with this was jacking the engine up on this side. It pivots nicely this way and give you room. I used a wood 4x4 and jack under the bellhousing.

Took me about 9hrs total. I'm confident that it would take me around 6hrs now...but I will never do this again.


I have a MBRP street catback setup and I kid you not, it sounded like absolute shit with this no cat header setup. I could hear my car echoing off the buildings and off other cars. I didn't mind the volume, it was the cackling farm-truck noise. $40k car that sounds like a $1k field truck. Thank god I kept my factory catback/resonator setup. I put it back on and it sounds perfect now. Nice "tinny" sound from the headers and the deep growl from the Roush CAI. You actually hear the motor instead of raspy b.s.

 

[rozay]

Ok...got these things on today:cheers:
*no lift*

Keeping the studs on the passenger side is a no-go. The header can't make it up and over. It gets sandwiched between the tips of the studs and frame rail. I did keep 2 studs in on top to hold the gasket in place. 1 up by the a/c compressor and 1 by the battery box.

I DID NOT REMOVE the motor mounts on either side (heard Ford loves the thread locker on those bolts). Didn't see any reason to, plenty of room keeping them there. I did remove the brackets on each side of the block...that's a must. Install the header and put the bracket back on after.

I DID NOT REMOVE the battery box. All upper flange fasteners on the passenger side header were tightened from up top (ratchet wrench). Biggest help with this was jacking the engine up on this side. It pivots nicely this way and give you room. I used a wood 4x4 and jack under the bellhousing.

Took me about 9hrs total. I'm confident that it would take me around 6hrs now...but I will never do this again.


I have a MBRP street catback setup and I kid you not, it sounded like absolute shit with this no cat header setup. I could hear my car echoing off the buildings and off other cars. I didn't mind the volume, it was the cackling farm-truck noise. $40k car that sounds like a $1k field truck. Thank god I kept my factory catback/resonator setup. I put it back on and it sounds perfect now. Nice "tinny" sound from the headers and the deep growl from the Roush CAI. You actually hear the motor instead of raspy b.s.

Nice tips. Thanks

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[KilluminatiDre]

Ok...got these things on today:cheers:
*no lift*

Keeping the studs on the passenger side is a no-go. The header can't make it up and over. It gets sandwiched between the tips of the studs and frame rail. I did keep 2 studs in on top to hold the gasket in place. 1 up by the a/c compressor and 1 by the battery box.

I DID NOT REMOVE the motor mounts on either side (heard Ford loves the thread locker on those bolts). Didn't see any reason to, plenty of room keeping them there. I did remove the brackets on each side of the block...that's a must. Install the header and put the bracket back on after.

I DID NOT REMOVE the battery box. All upper flange fasteners on the passenger side header were tightened from up top (ratchet wrench). Biggest help with this was jacking the engine up on this side. It pivots nicely this way and give you room. I used a wood 4x4 and jack under the bellhousing.

Took me about 9hrs total. I'm confident that it would take me around 6hrs now...but I will never do this again.


I have a MBRP street catback setup and I kid you not, it sounded like absolute shit with this no cat header setup. I could hear my car echoing off the buildings and off other cars. I didn't mind the volume, it was the cackling farm-truck noise. $40k car that sounds like a $1k field truck. Thank god I kept my factory catback/resonator setup. I put it back on and it sounds perfect now. Nice "tinny" sound from the headers and the deep growl from the Roush CAI. You actually hear the motor instead of raspy b.s.

Did you have to disconnect the steering linkage?


This kinda worries me, I want to get catted headers and I have the MBRP race.

 

[Blitz]

Did you have to disconnect the steering linkage?


This kinda worries me, I want to get catted headers and I have the MBRP race.

yes you have to disconnect. no biggy just lock your steering wheel.

 

[smokinzx14r]

Ok...got these things on today:cheers:
*no lift*

Keeping the studs on the passenger side is a no-go. The header can't make it up and over. It gets sandwiched between the tips of the studs and frame rail. I did keep 2 studs in on top to hold the gasket in place. 1 up by the a/c compressor and 1 by the battery box.

I DID NOT REMOVE the motor mounts on either side (heard Ford loves the thread locker on those bolts). Didn't see any reason to, plenty of room keeping them there. I did remove the brackets on each side of the block...that's a must. Install the header and put the bracket back on after.

I DID NOT REMOVE the battery box. All upper flange fasteners on the passenger side header were tightened from up top (ratchet wrench). Biggest help with this was jacking the engine up on this side. It pivots nicely this way and give you room. I used a wood 4x4 and jack under the bellhousing.

Took me about 9hrs total. I'm confident that it would take me around 6hrs now...but I will never do this again.


I have a MBRP street catback setup and I kid you not, it sounded like absolute shit with this no cat header setup. I could hear my car echoing off the buildings and off other cars. I didn't mind the volume, it was the cackling farm-truck noise. $40k car that sounds like a $1k field truck. Thank god I kept my factory catback/resonator setup. I put it back on and it sounds perfect now. Nice "tinny" sound from the headers and the deep growl from the Roush CAI. You actually hear the motor instead of raspy b.s.

I feel your pain .. I had Roush Axle backs that sounded great , then I put the headers on and It sounded like crap !!!! I had to weld back on my stock muffles.. Sounded great after that ..

One other thing , if I had known adding headers only added a few HP I would have not don't them at all ..They do sound cool but didn't do much for power ( if any ) .. 3 different tunes and the best was 418 HP and 369 TQ .

 

[rozay]

Really ? What tune do you have?

 

[smokinzx14r]

Really ? What tune do you have?

Two Bama tunes and two custom tunes done on the dyno by local tuners .I no longer have that car ... I have a 2015 Mustang Auto 6 now with a Lund tune ( no headers on this one )

 

[sldghmr]

Ok...got these things on today:cheers:
*no lift*

Took me about 9hrs total. I'm confident that it would take me around 6hrs now...but I will never do this again.

Could have quoted the entire post because your experience completely duplicated mine I felt the same way after finishing... though now I'm two weeks since finished, I would probably due another one WITH somebody....and beer (of course!!)

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