Has anyone used Turtle Wax Carnauba?

[Shadow277]

Thanks for your imput. I really wasn't looking for an argument. The texture of Turtle Wax intrigued me. I'll be on the look out for your recomendation.

I am looking for the highest protection I can get so I use a ceramic spray too. My issue is that I'm in Phoenix and I got a new job that has ZERO covered parking. I don't know how to protect the Mustang ):

Sponsored

 

[Shadow277]

What do recomend for someone who daily's their Mustang that has zero covered parking options? It gets to be over 120F where I live.

 

[DemonGT]

What is the difference between a wax and a sealant?

Iv used the Collinite 845 and will say that stuff works great. What is the recommended cure time on most waxes before removal?

My truck has vinyl stripes, is there a trick to dealing with them using a orbital for application or do i need to tape them off?

 

[DFB5.0]

What is the difference between a wax and a sealant?

Iv used the Collinite 845 and will say that stuff works great. What is the recommended cure time on most waxes before removal?

My truck has vinyl stripes, is there a trick to dealing with them using a orbital for application or do i need to tape them off?

A wax is wax is derived from natural ingredients and produces a softer, warmer glow.

A sealant is a synthetic polymer-based product that produce a glass-like finish.

As a very general rule, a sealant will offer more durability than a wax, although that is very product specific and use case dependent. Application methods are similar to both, wipe on, allow to haze and then wipe off, always follow the specific directions for your chosen product though. Both protect the paint from UV, intense heat, moisture, oxidation and contaminants.

For Collinite 845, I apply the product to the whole car, by the time I have gone around the car, it's usually time to remove the residue from where I started. Obviously, that will depend on how big the car is, how quickly you work, how thin or thick you applied it and ambient temps. The good old "swipe test" is the best way to know with most waxes, swipe a section with your finger, if it leaves a clean line, then it's ready to come off.

I have never had to deal with stripes or decals, I would however tape them off to prevent the pad from forcing wax under/along the edge of the stripe. Masking just the edges should be sufficient. Once you have machine applied the wax, remove the tape and then carefully hand apply the wax to the stripes.

 

[DemonGT]

If a sealent offers more durability than a wax, what is the upside to using a wax?

 

[Rapid Red]

A

If a sealent offers more durability than a wax, what is the upside to using a wax?

It is just better

 

[DemonGT]

A


It is just better

Wax or Sealant?

 

[Rapid Red]

Wax or Sealant?

Wax richer color

 

[DFB5.0]

If a sealent offers more durability than a wax, what is the upside to using a wax?

Neither is "just" better, just different.

The visual difference a wax offers is hard to describe, it's often referred to as a softer and "warmer" glow. A ceramic coating or sealant on the other hand is more starkly glossy with a glass like finish. Like everything though, that will vary from product to product and how each person sees things with their own eyes.

Sometimes, both can be used in tandem. For example, using Jescar Powerlock Plus as the base layer, topped with a coat of Collinite 845. The sealant bonds to the paint and offers a base layer of protection, the wax then bonds to the sealant and improves the appearance and slickness. Typically, a wax and sealant won't play well together, in this case I believe the polymers in 845 allow it to bond with the Powerlock polymers.

I have never bothered with the layering described above, I'm a pick one sort of guy, even I have a limit to the amount of effort I wish to put in.

 

[Les]

From my testing with a gloss meter, layering does not increase shine/gloss. It might help longevity. If you strip the wax or sealant off using a paint prep product and then apply what ever your favorite product is, that’s the best shine/gloss your going to have. Two coats sometimes, depending on the product help shine/gloss.
I’m guilty of waxing my cars waaaay to much. Measuring the end result my gloss meter the numbers go down. Then I strip it, light polish, apply wax or sealant and the numbers are crazy high (104 to 110). A finish that is in the high nineties looks incredibly shiny, with a little patience and the right products the finish looks crazy meaning numbers are over one hundred. So my obsessive cycle goes on and on like a dog chasing his tail. Wax, wax, wax, wax, strip, polish wax, wax, wax, wax strip, polish etc etc etc. Not only that! I’m doing this with all four of my vehicles. I think I might have to visit Doctor Phil! Hmmmm, I wonder if he would want his car detailed!

 

[DFB5.0]

From my testing with a gloss meter, layering does not increase shine/gloss. It might help longevity. If you strip the wax or sealant off using a paint prep product and then apply what ever your favorite product is, that’s the best shine/gloss your going to have. Two coats sometimes, depending on the product help shine/gloss.
I’m guilty of waxing my cars waaaay to much. Measuring the end result my gloss meter the numbers go down. Then I strip it, light polish, apply wax or sealant and the numbers are crazy high (104 to 110). A finish that is in the high nineties looks incredibly shiny, with a little patience and the right products the finish looks crazy meaning numbers are over one hundred. So my obsessive cycle goes on and on like a dog chasing his tail. Wax, wax, wax, wax, strip, polish wax, wax, wax, wax strip, polish etc etc etc. Not only that! I’m doing this with all four of my vehicles. I think I might have to visit Doctor Phil! Hmmmm, I wonder if he would want his car detailed!

There are people who swear by layering, but that right there is proof that it won't make your car shinier.

 

[Les]

There are people who swear by layering, but that right there is proof that it won't make your car shinier.

I‘ve done my testing numerous times with multiple products and got the same results. I’ve been layering waxes for ever with different brand name waxes on top of each other. (And still do, I can’t help it) After a couple months or so, I’ll pick a panel on the car, wax it, measure it after being freshly done, strip it, reapply the wax and get a higher reading on the gloss meter. General about 5 to 7 gloss meter numbers Higher. Also the color on that panel is a slight bit richer. Then I do the complete car over. If I’m trying a new wax or sealant I do the exact same thing on a panel except I split the panel in half, one half with the old product, one half with the new product freshly done, then measure both new and old. But I always strip it first to get accurate numbers. I also recalibrate the meter each time. For me it’s the perfect thing to do a rainy day with the music cranked up loud!

 

[RagmopInKona]

Paging @DFB5.0 @kilobravo and/or @Les I haven’t used a carnuba wax in years, today‘s waxes, sealants and coatings are so much more durable and provide high levels of gloss and hydrophobic properties.

The thing I like to know is how does one get this stuff off and OUT of the paint on the vehicle, so if and when you need a panel repaired or repainted these wonder products don't cause the new paint to fail because you can't get it out/off the paint on the vehicle, most places are not going to take a panel down to medal/plastic.

 

[DFB5.0]

The thing I like to know is how does one get this stuff off and OUT of the paint on the vehicle, so if and when you need a panel repaired or repainted these wonder products don't cause the new paint to fail because you can't get it out/off the paint on the vehicle, most places are not going to take a panel down to medal/plastic.

Any LSP, be it wax, sealant or ceramic coating would be removed once they start to prepare the panel to accept new paint, as in sanding. Regardless, most waxes and sealants will be removed or severely diminished with a high pH soap, a ceramic coating requires polishing to be removed. Either way, a panel or paint shop is going to be scuffing or sanding the paint prior to application of new paint, taking the coating/wax/sealant with it. These products bond to the clearcoat, they don't permeate the clearcoat/paint surface.

 

[Les]

The thing I like to know is how does one get this stuff off and OUT of the paint on the vehicle, so if and when you need a panel repaired or repainted these wonder products don't cause the new paint to fail because you can't get it out/off the paint on the vehicle, most places are not going to take a panel down to medal/plastic.

The products I’m using can be striped off with a good paint prep solution. I’m not a fan of high end ceramic coatings that are harder than the clear coat on a car.
I spent multiple days, 40 hours on a little black 2 door Honda getting ceramic coating off that was applied over completely swirled paint. Then spent 4 hours correcting the paint. When I started compounding it the looked dull. Like I was wet sanding it. The more I compounded the duller it got. I had to use a gear driven machine with a wool pad with extremely aggressive gritty compound to get through it. I started to see really shiny little circles breaking through. The bottom of the car under the molding I finally wet sanded it with 3000 to 5000 grit sand paper to save time to get through it, then compounded. After all that, it turned me off of ceramic coatings. Ya, I know ceramic coatings have a large following and people absolutely love it. I have to agree, their cars look awesome. I’m not the guy that’s going to work that hard to get it off. I also don’t use products with silicone in them.

Sponsored