Has anyone attempted a 'tuck-n-hide' in their engine bay?

[zx2reme]

THAT is nice and clean!! Looks great epically with a lot of the harnesses hidden out of the way.

How long did it take you to reroute some of that wiring? Is it zip tied up or secured behind the wheel well liners?

Total time, maybe 10-12 hours if that. I was working a lot of things at once so was probably less time than that. The instructions from Stroud are pretty detailed and easy to follow. Everything is in fender liner. The brackets relocate PCM and fuse box there. You lose the washer fluid bottle I think (can't remember off the top of my head since its been awhile). Battery cables get routed there too and connect to a remote point behind bumper. Everything is supplied, though I had to get longer battery cables because the ones supplied were cut too short. Highly recommend them though. I think on SVT performance, someone did a wire tuck before the Stroud kit came out. They followed a similar path. I'm not sure what the difference is with the 18-20's, but maybe if you found the instructions for the 15-17's, at least you could pull the bumpers off and see what is needed to accomplish. I know we (15-17s) have the benefit of having the extended harness cable for the pcm, but otherwise, you would at least be able to lay it out, then extend the wires yourselves (unless someone has done a kit for you already). I'd be interested to see it.

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[StangTime]

Damn that's clean! Can you provide more information on how you painted the valve covers? On car, or removed, what sort of prep and paint?

 

[zx2reme]

Damn that's clean! Can you provide more information on how you painted the valve covers? On car, or removed, what sort of prep and paint?

Thanks much. No problem. I had the valve covers off while doing some other work. Cleaned them with a degreaser and paint prep cleaner. I don't have the name off the top of my head. Scuffed them with some red scotchguard, masked them and then sprayed a couple coats of hit temp primer. Afterwards hit it with some wrinklecoat and then a couple coats of red valve cover paint (bought both at Auto Zone). It wasn't as deep a red as I hoped for, but did the job for now. Once I get back to the states, I'll order some aluminum covers and have them powdercoated in wrinkle red. hope this gives you an idea.

 

[StangTime]

Thanks much. No problem. I had the valve covers off while doing some other work. Cleaned them with a degreaser and paint prep cleaner. I don't have the name off the top of my head. Scuffed them with some red scotchguard, masked them and then sprayed a couple coats of hit temp primer. Afterwards hit it with some wrinklecoat and then a couple coats of red valve cover paint (bought both at Auto Zone). It wasn't as deep a red as I hoped for, but did the job for now. Once I get back to the states, I'll order some aluminum covers and have them powdercoated in wrinkle red. hope this gives you an idea.

Yes, this is very helpful. I think these engines look better with colored valve covers. The black just disappears under the rats nest of snakes under the hood.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Yes, this is very helpful. I think these engines look better with colored valve covers. The black just disappears under the rats nest of snakes under the hood.

If you do that, since valve covers come off anyway, might be a good idea to replace the factory plastic valve covers with Ford Performance metal ones that can be powder coated, are less leak prone, run cooler and even have a port for a catch can to drain back in.

https://www.levittownfordparts.com/sku/m-6067-m52s.html

 

[Cobra Jet]

Total time, maybe 10-12 hours if that. I was working a lot of things at once so was probably less time than that. The instructions from Stroud are pretty detailed and easy to follow. Everything is in fender liner. The brackets relocate PCM and fuse box there. You lose the washer fluid bottle I think (can't remember off the top of my head since its been awhile). Battery cables get routed there too and connect to a remote point behind bumper. Everything is supplied, though I had to get longer battery cables because the ones supplied were cut too short. Highly recommend them though. I think on SVT performance, someone did a wire tuck before the Stroud kit came out. They followed a similar path. I'm not sure what the difference is with the 18-20's, but maybe if you found the instructions for the 15-17's, at least you could pull the bumpers off and see what is needed to accomplish. I know we (15-17s) have the benefit of having the extended harness cable for the pcm, but otherwise, you would at least be able to lay it out, then extend the wires yourselves (unless someone has done a kit for you already). I'd be interested to see it.

Thanks for all that info and details. Your engine bay looks great and it probably gets a lot of positive comments if you show it or take it to cruise-ins.

I also like what you did with the valve covers, it's not overly done but makes the engine bay pop along with the harness tuck.

 

[StangTime]

If you do that, since valve covers come off anyway, might be a good idea to replace the factory plastic valve covers with Ford Performance metal ones that can be powder coated, are less leak prone, run cooler and even have a port for a catch can to drain back in.

https://www.levittownfordparts.com/sku/m-6067-m52s.html

I saw those and would do exactly that. But sadly they aren't compatible with 2018+

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I saw those and would do exactly that. But sadly they aren't compatible with 2018+

That's weird. The link to Levittown (and others I've seen) say compatible with 2011-2021 Mustangs and same years for F-150. Supposedly its the factory covers for the latest GT500. It doesn't say EVERY Coyote in those model years but at least some of those years, I thought there was just a single version 5.0 offered. Update: another part of page says 2018 up just for 5.2s.

If they really are the factory GT-500 covers maybe the dip stick location is different and harder to get to and needs different sticks and tubes in other models?

Do you happen to know why/how not compatible?

 

[StangTime]

That's weird. The link to Levittown (and others I've seen) say compatible with 2011-2021 Mustangs and same years for F-150. Supposedly its the factory covers for the latest GT500. It doesn't say EVERY Coyote in those model years but at least some of those years, I thought there was just a single version 5.0 offered.

If they really are the factory GT-500 covers maybe the dip stick location is different and harder to get to and needs different sticks and tubes in other models?

Do you happen to know why/how not compatible?

Well, I don't know why but they are a completely different design.

2018 left side:

2018 right side:

MMR makes these but they are stupidly expensive at $1300 /pair:

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Well, I don't know why but they are a completely different design.

2018 left side:

2018 right side:

MMR makes these but they are stupidly expensive at $1300 /pair:

Yeah, you're right. The fitment section on Ford say the valve covers fit 2011-2021. BUT apparently 2018 on is just 5.2s. Bummer.

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