Half shaft upgrade? Drive shaft?

[stang305]

Just installed a stage 2 procharger kit on my car. I'm only looking to make in the future no more than 600-650 to the wheels.

I'm on stock suspension with performance pack.
I have bmr cradle lockout in a box waiting to install

This vehicle is a street car that will maybe hit the strip once a month.

I know i need to do half shaft and want your input.will the dss 800 hp be sufficient if I want to stay in that power area listed above? Dont want to have to spend the extra cash on the 1400 if not needed. Just want to know if anyone has that and it's good enough. Also I am manual transmission looking for input from people with manuals

Also do I need to do drive shaft also? Any inputs

Thanks car will be on street tires. Might upgrade in far future to nt555r in the rears.

Thanks

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[Chummel]

You don't have to do either. You can always wait until it breaks. I would probably do a Driveshaft saftey loop though if you are going to keep the factory one in.

I replaced my Driveshaft early as I heard it could be dangerous if it breaks. My left half shaft snapped, I replaced it with the 1400 hp one to be safe. But if you don't track your car and tires aren't too sticky your halfshafts will probably be fine. I think wheel hop is what killed mine

 

[stang17]

If you are running the stock PZEROs like me, I don't believe you will need to replace the half shafts. We just don't have enough traction for the half shafts to break. If you swap out to a radial at the track, then I'd consider the DSS 800 for peace of mind. At your power levels, the 1400 are unnecessary.

I've had my Whipple since day 1 and at almost 4,500 miles later, stock clutch is still holding strong. I'm on the fence of upgrading the clutch, shifter, or driveshaft as if I ever swap to a tremec/magnum XL, it is lost money.

If I knew swapping to a carbon fiber drive shaft would eliminate those vibrations that come and go when decelerating, it may be enough to change my mind.

 

[stang305]

I'm running nitro invo 275 35 20 front and 315 35 20 rears.

 

[stang305]

The track is like 2 hours from my house i prefer to get what I need instead of wait till it breaks and call a tow truck.

 

[stang17]

If it is your only car and can't afford any downtime, grab the DSS 800 for peace of mind.

 

[whatsup62]

So...this might be long.
When I purchased my Mustang I knew my plan. I wanted a very fast street car that would see the strip once or twice. I did most of my "other" things before going boosted. With all of that being said I have broken two MT82's because of my driving style, type of clutch I went with. You will need a different clutch eventually at that power level. I am running the DSS 800 halfshafts at my current power level as well with no issues..that's what I would recommend. The wheel hop is notorious for snapping them...even with stock p zero tires. Going with a one piece driveshaft was one of the best mods I did as NA. The car was much more responsive plus it was like 16 lbs lighter than stock...it all the little things that help. Another item NOT required but nice is a decent shifter. When engaged in a WOT things can happen and the more power you have the more nerves come into play and less time to react. Miss shifts kill cars. All that being said here are my recommendations.

DSS 800 halfshafts
Aluminum driveshaft of your choice.
Mcleod RST clutch
MGW shifter

 

[stang305]

I see you have the carbon fiber drive shaft. Is it quiet? Any nah? If you can advise thanks

So...this might be long.
When I purchased my Mustang I knew my plan. I wanted a very fast street car that would see the strip once or twice. I did most of my "other" things before going boosted. With all of that being said I have broken two MT82's because of my driving style, type of clutch I went with. You will need a different clutch eventually at that power level. I am running the DSS 800 halfshafts at my current power level as well with no issues..that's what I would recommend. The wheel hop is notorious for snapping them...even with stock p zero tires. Going with a one piece driveshaft was one of the best mods I did as NA. The car was much more responsive plus it was like 16 lbs lighter than stock...it all the little things that help. Another item NOT required but nice is a decent shifter. When engaged in a WOT things can happen and the more power you have the more nerves come into play and less time to react. Miss shifts kill cars. All that being said here are my recommendations.

DSS 800 halfshafts
Aluminum driveshaft of your choice.
Mcleod RST clutch
MGW shifter

 

[whatsup62]

I see you have the carbon fiber drive shaft. Is it quiet? Any nah? If you can advise thanks

I installed when I did the TR6060 swap. Never having a TR6060 before I dont know if its the trans or the driveshaft but it has a different feel to it and is MUCH quieter than the MT82 with the aluminum driveshaft. It also is a lot easier to not get in that jerking mode that sometime happens when running a ceramic disc like the RXT. If you have the $$ to spend I highly recommend it.

 

[venumous]

800HP Axles should be fine and I would run a bias ply tire and not a drag radial for the track further reducing shock to the axles with the sidewall absorbing a lot of it. I used to run MT slicks on my stock half shaft Whipple Cobra and it never blinked with dozens of 5k RPM launches. I would also recommend the DSS aluminum driveshaft and an RST. I bought an RXT but will not be installing it as like Whatsup mentioned, that seems like a good way to need a new transmission quickly.

 

[stang305]

800HP Axles should be fine and I would run a bias ply tire and not a drag radial for the track further reducing shock to the axles with the sidewall absorbing a lot of it. I used to run MT slicks on my stock half shaft Whipple Cobra and it never blinked with dozens of 5k RPM launches. I would also recommend the DSS aluminum driveshaft and an RST. I bought an RXT but will not be installing it as like Whatsup mentioned, that seems like a good way to need a new transmission quickly.

Just want to make sure I'm reading right because I'm a noobie for superchargers. Your recommending I change my transmission?
What does are stock one max out on? Is 600 whp over kill for it?

 

[whatsup62]

Just want to make sure I'm reading right because I'm a noobie for superchargers. Your recommending I change my transmission?
What does are stock one max out on? Is 600 whp over kill for it?

No..not recommending you swap out tranny. You will eventually need a new clutch. Clutch selection is important to transmission survival however. If you choose a clutch like the RXT (a ceramic puck style) you "could" take out a tranny - I destroyed two - but there are plenty of organic disc options out there that hold your wanted power level - the MCleod RST being a highly recommended one.

 

[beefcake]

driveshaft and half shafts are never a bad idea

 

[venumous]

Just want to make sure I'm reading right because I'm a noobie for superchargers. Your recommending I change my transmission?
What does are stock one max out on? Is 600 whp over kill for it?

The MT82 is like the EJ25 (STI motor) of transmissions. It's rarely a question of if it will break under high horsepower conditions, its usually a matter of when it will break. You can help keep your chances of breaking it down by running an organic disk clutch like the McLeod RST instead of the RXT (Ceramic) and not power shifting it like you would a TR6060 or a T-56, both infinitely better transmisisons in other Mustangs that they should have put in the GT. At least they gave us a motor that can outrun a ZR1 on the highway on pump gas with a little boost, ask me how I know.

 

[stang305]

Lol thanks for breaking it down.

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