GT350R Important Mods/Maintenance

[Whopperman]

My bad, I thought it was a GT. I would get the leading edge (front bumper, wheel arch, mirrors maybe) PPF and a catch can. You don’t need much to have a shit-ton of fun with an R, I would just do stuff to protect it.

Catch can is probably going to be a couple months away, haven't heard of the Leading Edge stuff, but as long as it doesn't mess with the aesthetic/aerodynamics I'm open to getting some stuff

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[BoomBoy]

Catch cans for both sides and you are done.

 

[Whopperman]

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...al-information-ignore-at-your-own-risk.89612/

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...enance-parts-tools-to-make-life-easier.41706/

I saw the 6GR rims, but have heard of issues with the break clearance (being minimal) and that the lugs stick out far, is this true? Also, whats the difference between spun forged and fully forged aside from price?

 

[Whopperman]

Catch cans for both sides and you are done.

The ford performance are best because they have better draining, instal, and aesthetics right?

 

[svttim]

If your just street driving I would add the passenger side catch can from Ford performance. That pretty much is all you need.

If your tracking I added Vorschlag Caster/Camber plates and SPC rear adjustable control arms. Both are needed to be able to give the alignment adjustment desired. IMHO anything beyond that is a needless expense. To be clear, I'm referencing NEEDS and not WANTS

My Carbon Fiber wheels are reserved for Track. I have Shelby CS21's for street but there are several quality wheels available.

 

[tobaccokid]

If your just street driving I would add the passenger side catch can from Ford performance. That pretty much is all you need.

If your tracking I added Vorschlag Caster/Camber plates and SPC rear adjustable control arms. Both are needed to be able to give the alignment adjustment desired. IMHO anything beyond that is a needless expense. To be clear, I'm referencing NEEDS and not WANTS

My Carbon Fiber wheels are reserved for Track. I have Shelby CS21's for street but there are several quality wheels available.

Jacking rails, BMR or Steeda, are a minimum item. Too much sloppiness these days can easily result in damaged chassis sheet metal. For a next step, a few additional chassis stiffeners (note, they do not stiffen the ride, a common misconception) from those two vendors only cost a few hundred, and bolt right into existing threaded holes in the chassis.

 

[svttim]

Jacking rails, BMR or Steeda, are a minimum item. Too much sloppiness these days can easily result in damaged chassis sheet metal. For a next step, a few additional chassis stiffeners (note, they do not stiffen the ride, a common misconception) from those two vendors only cost a few hundred, and bolt right into existing threaded holes in the chassis.

Thanks, forgot those. Added mine a long while back

 

[Angrey]

If you want MUST have items, they involve protecting your investment.

1) Catch can. Passenger side minimum. Driver's side if you're just OCD. In all my years of forum surfing I've only encountered one guy who had oil in the driver's side and he was boosted. The driver's side valve cover has different baffling at the PCV port and it probably has something to do with the rotation direction of the chains/cams. Don't let home teamers fool you, catch cans nearly all work the same, they simply provide a media with a large surface area for suspended hydrocarbons to precipitate back into liquid and drain to a capture basin. The differences come down to price, fit/finish/look, how easy they are to access and drain, etc. Taster's choice.

2) Rock blockers. Either flaps or poly inserts. This will keep your lower door paint from getting murdered by rocks and debris that pass through the opening at the front of the side skirts.

3) Jacking rails. If you're going to be under the car as much as a lot of people or removing wheels for thorough cleaning and stuff, it protects your pinch welds and the underside of the car. You can get away with NOT having them if you're very careful, but the rails also allow you more options for jack points than the factory locations.

4) Some form of paint protection. Whether you enjoy applying wax infrequently or you want to install a graphene or ceramic that holds up for longer periods, you'll need something to protect the paint from normal dust/residue that collects and degrades the clear coat over time.

The rest of the modifications you can research and do yourself. Plenty of threads and discussions about performance improvements, ergonomic improvements (that help you to better operate or enjoy the car), aesthetic improvements, etc.

 

[460Fred]

Yes, jacking rails are needed…First thing I did and I forgot that I did it…Getting old is a real b!+$§?
Oh ya, rock blockers as well.

 

[raiderjatt02]

If your tracking I added Vorschlag Caster/Camber plates and SPC rear adjustable control arms. Both are needed to be able to give the alignment adjustment desired. IMHO anything beyond that is a needless expense. To be clear, I'm referencing NEEDS and not WANTS

Definitely need Caster/Camber plates, they don't need to be Vorshlag but those ones give the most adjustability and I feel they're the best quality. The other brands are really good and cheaper, but their range of adjustability isn't as great. They'll be good enough for most, but if you get more into track days and want more, you might see yourself upgrading to Vorshlag eventually.

SPC rear adjustable control arms are not required to get the proper track alignment in the rear. I'm still stock back there and have been running -2.1 camber for the past 4 years with some more room to go more if needed. Aftermarket control arms might be better quality and more sturdy but they are not required.

I would say absolute musts are a passenger side catch can and jacking rails. Catch can brand can be whatever you want. The Ford Performance ones look the most "stock" but draining them can be annoying as hell since they don't really have a drain. You have to open them up and suck the oil out. I have them and they work great, but they're annoying to empty out.

Jacking rails will make your life so much easier anytime you need to work on your car if you don't have a lift. I can stick the floor jack anywhere along the side of the car, lift it up and plop a couple jack stands before moving to the other side. Probably one of the most useful mods I've done.

Another that hasn't been mentioned if you plan on swapping brake pads often for track use would be Caliperfexion brake caliper studs. They'll make brake maintenance SO MUCH easier and quicker. Get the studs and the extension sleeves. https://caliperfexion.net/

 

[wingnutt]

tow hook and/or hooks…

 

[Angrey]

tow hook and/or hooks…

Good catch. The reason you need a tow hook isn't just for tracking.

If you have to flatbed or tow the car for any reason, tow hook is almost a must. Flatbed is very problematic with getting the car on without issues on the front clip, either by scrape clearance or trying to attach to something that's a straight line to the come along or winch (that doesn't bind against body, etc).

 

[svttim]

Definitely need Caster/Camber plates, they don't need to be Vorshlag but those ones give the most adjustability and I feel they're the best quality. The other brands are really good and cheaper, but their range of adjustability isn't as great. They'll be good enough for most, but if you get more into track days and want more, you might see yourself upgrading to Vorshlag eventually.

SPC rear adjustable control arms are not required to get the proper track alignment in the rear. I'm still stock back there and have been running -2.1 camber for the past 4 years with some more room to go more if needed. Aftermarket control arms might be better quality and more sturdy but they are not required.

I would say absolute musts are a passenger side catch can and jacking rails. Catch can brand can be whatever you want. The Ford Performance ones look the most "stock" but draining them can be annoying as hell since they don't really have a drain. You have to open them up and suck the oil out. I have them and they work great, but they're annoying to empty out.

Jacking rails will make your life so much easier anytime you need to work on your car if you don't have a lift. I can stick the floor jack anywhere along the side of the car, lift it up and plop a couple jack stands before moving to the other side. Probably one of the most useful mods I've done.

Another that hasn't been mentioned if you plan on swapping brake pads often for track use would be Caliperfexion brake caliper studs. They'll make brake maintenance SO MUCH easier and quicker. Get the studs and the extension sleeves. https://caliperfexion.net/

My car was not able to be adjusted within track spec. May be car specific?

 

[CoRRupted_350]

Tell you what I did first few weeks of ownership. Do what you think is needed/best for you.
1. Full paint correction of the car done by me. If you have a DA polisher then just the cost of around $40 for all your supplies.
2. PPF Front, roof, side mirrors, rear wing and quarter panels. Probably the most expensive part. Forgot how much.
3. Ceramic Coating done by me.$120ish
4.Lower Rock Guards for the front.$70ish
5. Oil separators for both sides but passenger first.
6. Front Tow Hook.$250ish
7. Steeds jacking rails. $90ish
8. Felt a lot of wheel hop during LC so bought me some a rear BMR Cradle Lockout kit. Around $210
9. Ford performance Lowering Springs. Around $300
10. Finally Ceramic Tint for all the windows and windshield because I noticed it got really hot in the car here in Texas

 

[br_an]

I did jacking rails, a FP passenger-side catch can, the Steeda clutch spring/perch, a blue airaid filter, Redline hood struts (hated the prop rod), window tint, ZL1addons rock guards, Weathertech floor liners, and a second set of OEM wheels w/ Michelin Pilot Alpine PA4s for the winter months (because no way am I parking my car for 5 months of the year).

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