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kilobravo

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Think any swirl marking is all about the user, like the term color correction, how do they color correct a clear coat
RR: I hear you loud and clear. However, I will say that polishing does in fact change the color, nearly always to a deeper hue. It is easily visible. I think someone just coined that phrase.

As for marring from washiing, no offense old buddy, but I can guaranTEE that you have added to them. It's impossible to avoid. Can you minimize this with good technique? Absolutely. Mine was polished in '21 and while you can find them on my car, you have to look carefully. Next winter she gets another polishing job.
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Rapid Red

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KB,
No offense taken, for sure washing a good rise before the soap, mitt or whatever one cleans the surface with comes out. Controls damage to the finish, and a clear is a bunch more durable, then people want to think.

For myself I prefer a paste wax, I have used the ceramic on the wife's CTS & the 34 earlier this year.

While it is more light reflective (glare) does not have the warmth of the past. The paste wax does have a twist to get it right.

Generally speaking, most think that it needs to dry (haze) before buffing. This is true, however here is the catch.

Apply the past what do you see a haze there it is, go back a buff. If you have ever spit shined a pair of shoes, this will make total sense, thin coat of paste, a panel at a time.

No waiting for drying or curing times.

Got no skin in this game. Terms like color correction are MISSleading and flat out un true. My point is to educate the regular folks, and promote an honest comparison of what is at hand.

Taking a care of a car's finish is not HARD and not rocket science.
 

MattMPA

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I use a foam cannon on every vehicle we have. I've ceramic coated all of our cars and my '22 GT also has PPF.

1. Rinse.
2. Foam
3. Agitate with soft mitt. (Like the 2 bucket method, but I only use 1 with a grit guard)
4. Rinse
5. Blow off with Metro Master Blaster.
6. Touch up any drips with towel and Duragloss Aquawax.

I too have heard it said that a touchless wash is all that is needed with a ceramic coated vehicle. I've yet to find this to be the case as bugs, stuff from the road, etc simply don't rinse off.
 

Bobn57

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I've been washing cars for a half a century and never, repeat never put a swirl mark in the paint, enamel, lacquer and especially clear coat.

Think any swirl marking is all about the user, like the term color correction, how do they color correct a clear coat LMAO.. :thumbsup:
Hey Greg ...I'm a member of that half century club as well :cwl: I've only used the old school one bucket cleaning method until a few years ago and only the foam cannon method this year. Never had any issues with making any swirls on finish like you say but I do like this new fangled foam cannon. Definitely cuts my wash time down and does a great job. Have used it with and without one bucket method depending on actually how dirty the stang is. The ceramic coating helps a lot with keeping it clean longer between washes. Just bought a blower for drying! I'm embracing these modern gadgets :cwl:
 

Rapid Red

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Hey Greg ...I'm a member of that half century club as well :cwl: I've only used the old school one bucket cleaning method until a few years ago and only the foam cannon method this year. Never had any issues with making any swirls on finish like you say but I do like this new fangled foam cannon. Definitely cuts my wash time down and does a great job. Have used it with and without one bucket method depending on actually how dirty the stang is. The ceramic coating helps a lot with keeping it clean longer between washes. Just bought a blower for drying! I'm embracing these modern gadgets :cwl:

Like said, no skin in the game, leaf blower for me. Use what I have, save space in the garage, spend the $$ on other things. :thumbsup:
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