Grimmspeed Exhaust Valve Simulators

[mavisky]

If anyone has these laying around or can easily access them, would you be able to check the resistance on them? Willing to spend the $60 myself if needed, but hoping someone can save me the trouble by measuring the resistance of a set they already have.

Long story short is I'm trying to wire the "simulator" up to a switch to allow the effect to be replicated without having to drop my Verus rear diffuser every time I want to change from quiet mode to loud mode or back again for track days and weekend enjoyment.

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[pilotgore]

If anyone has these laying around or can easily access them, would you be able to check the resistance on them? Willing to spend the $60 myself if needed, but hoping someone can save me the trouble by measuring the resistance of a set they already have.

Long story short is I'm trying to wire the "simulator" up to a switch to allow the effect to be replicated without having to drop my Verus rear diffuser every time I want to change from quiet mode to loud mode or back again for track days and weekend enjoyment.

You can always go the poor man’s route and just wire the switch into the fuse box. Worked great for me.

 

[mavisky]

You can always go the poor man’s route and just wire the switch into the fuse box. Worked great for me.

Already tried. Doesn't work on my 2018 for some reason. It's been confirmed to work on 2016, 2017, and even 2020 cars. Something changed on the 2018 apparently and possibly 2019 as well.

Hooked up Forscan and data logged the sensors. Apparently the 2018 has an exhaust valve status tattle tale signal coming in that 's logged under EVC_A_Stat. You can see in the attached image that the valve functions properly as indicated by the top line. That line starts at 100 with the valve open and then I close the exhaust valve using the dash switch and it moves from 100% to 0% on the exhaust valve line showing the valve is now closed. On the status line at the bottom you see all is good as indicated with a 0 value. I then toggle the switch which causes a temporary spike too 100 but, at this point there's no issue and the value returns to 0. Seconds later though the system jumps to a low value and holds that value. This is where the car indicates a fault and the drive mode selection and all other faults originate. I then disable the interruptor switch and the value returns to 0 and drive modes are reenabled.

2022-12-19_10-33-32 by Kyle Mavis, on Flickr

I've confirmed that the valves are disabled properly using the switch, but I need to disable the switches and simultaneously provide the proper resistance back to the BCM to keep everything happy. Trying to figure out what resistor I need to utilize to do this.

 

[pilotgore]

Already tried. Doesn't work on my 2018 for some reason. It's been confirmed to work on 2016, 2017, and even 2020 cars. Something changed on the 2018 apparently and possibly 2019 as well.

Hooked up Forscan and data logged the sensors. Apparently the 2018 has an exhaust valve status tattle tale signal coming in that 's logged under EVC_A_Stat. You can see in the attached image that the valve functions properly as indicated by the top line. That line starts at 100 with the valve open and then I close the exhaust valve using the dash switch and it moves from 100% to 0% on the exhaust valve line showing the valve is now closed. On the status line at the bottom you see all is good as indicated with a 0 value. I then toggle the switch which causes a temporary spike too 100 but, at this point there's no issue and the value returns to 0. Seconds later though the system jumps to a low value and holds that value. This is where the car indicates a fault and the drive mode selection and all other faults originate. I then disable the interruptor switch and the value returns to 0 and drive modes are reenabled.

2022-12-19_10-33-32 by Kyle Mavis, on Flickr

I've confirmed that the valves are disabled properly using the switch, but I need to disable the switches and simultaneously provide the proper resistance back to the BCM to keep everything happy. Trying to figure out what resistor I need to utilize to do this.

That really sucks. Worked for my ‘19

 

[mavisky]

That really sucks. Worked for my ‘19

Great so possibly an 18 only thing. Hooray for senseless changes in PCM coding.

 

[raiderjatt02]

You could also go the opposite way and spend a little more money and do what I did:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...irst-1000-miles-and-beyond.52895/post-2429532

EDIT: Holy shit nevermind, they got way too expensive. They were under $200 when I bought mine.

https://awe-tuning.com/products/switchpath-exhaust-remote

 

[mavisky]

You could also go the opposite way and spend a little more money and do what I did:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...irst-1000-miles-and-beyond.52895/post-2429532

EDIT: Holy shit nevermind, they got way too expensive. They were under $200 when I bought mine.

https://awe-tuning.com/products/switchpath-exhaust-remote

The switchpath is my last resort as I despise the idea if keeping a gob and spare batteries with me always. Also have some concerns about functionality aince they have never officially supported the Mustang and it seems my 2018 is unique in its errors its throwing compared to the other years.

Also not sure if this is related to my car originally being a Canadian delivered vehicle or not.

 

[raiderjatt02]

So it looks like the GT350 is officially supported on their site. As for the battery issue, I ended up hardwiring it and installing a switch so now that's not an issue either. Someone here had a writeup about how to hardwire it by taking apart 1 of the 2 remotes you get. I followed that and it's been flawless for the past year and a half since I did that.

But, that new price is a bit much....

 

[mavisky]

So it looks like the GT350 is officially supported on their site. As for the battery issue, I ended up hardwiring it and installing a switch so now that's not an issue either. Someone here had a writeup about how to hardwire it by taking apart 1 of the 2 remotes you get. I followed that and it's been flawless for the past year and a half since I did that.

But, that new price is a bit much....

Good to hear, and agreed. I haven't looked at their page for the last year or so after a buddy of mine installed one.

 

[raiderjatt02]

Just to save you and anyone else the trouble, if you DO decide to go with the AWE route, here's the thread by @drummerboy that I followed to hardwire mine.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/hardwired-awe-switchpath.163488/

 

[mavisky]

OK, so potentially shifting stratgies here. Based on some research:

Quick explanation of the Grimm Exhaust Valve Defeat Module. The module was designed for people who install exhaust systems without exhaust valves. When you unplug the exhaust valve at connector C4466 and C4467, it creates an open circuit that the PCM sees on pin 11 which is the line that the PCM uses to control the exhaust valves. The PCM detects a fault and throws a DTC code. So the Grimm solution tricks the PCM into believing that there are exhaust valve solenoids out there by using a resistor with the same resistance as the original exhaust valve solenoid coils. Obviously you need 2 because they are plugged into the wiring harnesses where the 2 exhaust valves used to be.

I believe it was VoodoBoss who sourced the harness extensions which are shown between C345 and C4467 on the driver side and C346 and C4466 on the passenger side. The Ford service part numbers for these extensions are:
FR3Z-14A411-H for the drivers side
FR3Z-14A411-J for the passenger side

I ordered up an assortment of resistors and the new strategy will be to develop a "switchable" Grimmspeed exhaust valve simulator. In position 1 the switch will retain factory configuration, In position 2 I want to have the resistors hardwired into an alternate wiring path to accurately simulate the valves. This should allow me to keep the aftermarket switch in position 1 and select the position of the valve I want, then switch the aftermarket switch into position 2 and "lock-in" that valve setting without having to get in and out of the vehicle and reach under the car. With the Verus rear diffuser its extremely difficult (if not completely impossible) to actually reach the exhaust valves.

Based on this post on an Audi forum the valves can be simulated using a 1k ohm 1/2 watt resistor.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/787150-Exhaust-flap-soft-code-elimination

Hoping this will work for me as well since the Grimmspeed valve simulator claims to work for a couple of different Audi vehicles as well.

Of course if someone has a set of valves out of the car or a Grimmspeed valve simulator and can measure the resistance it would confirm this theory.

 

[mavisky]

Unfortunately it looks like a lot of this has run into a bit of a hurdle as my car's wiring doesn't seem to match up with what I'm seeing on Ford's diagrams based upon the information provided by Ford's website based upon my VIN.

According to this first attachment the sensor wire that controls the valves comes from the BCM on a violet wire and passes through connector C264 on pin #4 in the driver's side footwell. The issue is that on my car there is no violent wire connected to pin #4 at connector C264.

On my car there is a blue with teal wire on pin 4 instead of violet and I can't find a single violet wire anywhere in the system. Going to have to chase this through the rest of the harness to see if my car got a blue with teal wire instead of violet for some reason.

 

[mavisky]

Wondering if mine got a late 2017 harness as it was manufactured in November of 2017 (chassis number J0006)

I've been able to locate a violet wire at connector C212 on Pin 34, but on the control side, that's about the only one that makes any sense.

I took at look at Connector C213 and that one does have a pin on the male side (although it's just straight blue) and there isn't a wire at all on the female side of that connector.

Going to take a look at C212 tonight to see what I can figure out there

 

[mavisky]

Well nevermind. C212 pin 34 is a violet with brown on the female side coming from the firewall, but there isn't even a corresponding wire on the male side of the connector.

I guess I could spend another 22 bucks on access to the Ford parts network again , but not sure I'd get any better information. It may be worth a shot though as I did notice that the wiring diagram is different slightly from the original post for a 2016 and my 2018. Maybe my car got a 2017 harness and it's just drastically different than the 2018 and 2016 harness, but I have my doubts as the only change seems to be at the actual fuse block.

2016

2018

 

[Austin1992]

You can always go the poor man’s route and just wire the switch into the fuse box. Worked great for me.

How does this work? Wish my AE would just stay on track mode and I could easily switch to quiet with out going all through the dash menu. Is that what this accomplishes?

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